Rack assumes final location. Next, fabricate cover which was the bottom of the cross member before I flipped it.
More fabrication before I go North to the big lake. I'm confident my insight will prevail. Supercharged 392 and a Richmond six speed will be handled easily along with power steering.
As stated, that rack is going to pull the toe in all over the place as the front axle goes thru its travel. At highway speeds when you hit a dip you better be holding on to that wheel. No McDonalds or coffee in your hands. I'm sorry, I love innovation and I'm far from a traditionalist, but that is just plain dangerous. If you attached the rack right to the axle and let it travel with the axle, than it will stay stable. You're scaring me Dude. MArk L
I'm fairly confident that your confidence is misplaced. You have successfully built a death trap. Congratulations. I wont bother you with facts or the laws of physics as they are clearly beyond your grasp. I will say once more that what your doing will not work, its not worked for anyone else thats tried it, and it wont for anyone in the future that tries it. My signature applies directly to you.
With that long fourbar rods you need much heavier tubes or they going to bend and the stearing is not going to work you are going to get bumpstear and tirewear if you can keep it on the road that long
Many have broken the laws of man, with varying results. To this date, no one has broken a law of physics. Many have tried. Many have died. You, sir, are on that road. Please stop, turn around, and go the other way, before you get yourself, or someone else killed. It is not a matter of if, but when.
man o man ..............do you know what the word ...bump steer means......?? .............some things just should not be done !! Steve in Oz
7 degrees is a majic number. It will still stand up and cut a straight line if you chassis is built for that but you will have to drive it if your wheel base is short and you are throwing a lot of meat to it. 7 degrees is still very drivable and if you are mostly driving drivable is what you want. If you are setting one up on a 4 link you can dial 7 degrees for around town and pull it out to about 10 or 11 for the 1320. I drove a gas class coupe once that had about 14 degrees dialed in. I didn't care for the feel of it maybe if I drove it a lot it would be fine, but on a single pass it felt too sluggish to me. Anyway getting back to it for a street driven car I like about 7 degrees, I may lean toward 9degrees if it was going to see lots of long miles on the interstate.
That's the dumbest thing I've seen in quite some time. Besides, it should take you about three weeks to turn that Shitbox around in a parking lot somewhere.
Thanks you saved me from being called an ass today. I don't want to pick the build apart so I won't go into what I see wrong with it, apart from the fact that it is a little wierd. I do see problems with it. It certainly isn't the first underslung chassis we have seen although using the cross leaf is a little unique. Not my cup of tea proportionly but I am still a firm believer in building it the way you see fit and let the chips fall where they may.
nah he aint gonna survive that long, first big bump he gonna kill himself. Unless ol stool started doing obits.
I started a business marketing vintage spinner wheels as "Hose Wheels" up at my cottage at Tip-Up-Town U.S.A. The local Houghton Lake High Rat's are driving around on my wheels.....
A freind of mine paid someone to do his steering and the builder mounted the rack just like that. At 55mph which the fastest he could go, it was a white knuckle ride. He sold it and the next guy totaled it, hit a tree. I seen left over parts for sale last year at NSRA nats north.
Here's the thing that pisses me off about this kind of thread. The original poster will NEVER come back on and say how bad this thing drives, he will instead extoll the virtues of the style, or the look, but will never mention that it cannot be driven over 5 mph without wanting to crash. Then some wannabe/newbie will come on and see this thread. He starts thinking,, Wow, I like this guys style, hes a true rebel cause he's throwing it in the faces of the professionals, and since he hasnt come back to say what a heap of shit it really is he must have not had any issues. So he then copies the build and "engineering" and ends up with another undrivable piece of shit. Now since he has no experience with what it should drive like he just assumes that all straight axles drive like this and it turns him off to the hobby, or worse kills him or some other innocent bystander. This in turn gives us all a bad name as by his reckoning we all drive uncontrolable shitboxes, no matter how nice they look. All because someone didnt cycle the suspension and watch the front wheels toe in and out because of his shitty attitude and under engineered design. But then again WTF would I know.
First off, you are no where near the first to attempt this (Streetrail) as you claim, maybe the first with a truck cab and tractor grille which makes it fit nicely in Rat Rod mentality. Also your frame mounted rack with the axle will NOT work as many have posted - you seriously need to rethink that This one is similar, and about as silly looking as yours and was at Bonneville a while back This one was done and street driven in 1951 And this one was on the show circuit a few years back and at least looks something like a Rail - not a crap rod
Beaner, I think you mis read the question, cuz I really don't think you want 7 degrees of CAMBER Yeah I know you were thinking CASTER, and your answer is spot on
If you use a rack-pinion on a axle it has to be mounted to the axle to avoid bump steer, the steering shaft has to be a flex cable or a slip joint to provide suspension travel. As for alignment settings- 1/2#Neg camber--10#pos caster-1/4in toe measured as close to the floor as possible front and rear. This has worked well for us, at close to 200 mph,
wow !!! this is scary. I just went thru this thread and I can't believe what I'm looking at. I had to check again to make sure this was HAMB. I was going to reply with the above but raengines beat me to it.
Those calipers are gonna be one of the first things fucked up when you hit the curb and the tree when you lose control on your first test run. Billet hubs aren't gonna help. triple digit mph,,, hmmm I say anything over 20 mph is gonna be uncontrollable, so you must be thinkin 20.5 mph. seriously, you obviously have some talent and a little bit of brains to get this far, why are you being so stupid now?
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