Hello, I am building what I call a Streetrail. 45 Dodge pick-up I am fabricating a gasser axle over frame, spring behind, four link front end. The engine will be about three feet behind the axle. I am curious as far as opinion on this type of fabrication, what the positive caster should be set at? I have tried to make a level surface. The best I can come up with is a department store mirror shimmed up with poster board. I have found that the practice king pins rock fore and aft on the gauge blocks slightly. I would like to know if anyone has seen a Speedway gasser axle off just a little bit. I know I will not no for sure until I find a surface plate to set this up on. Info will be greatly appreciated in this anal hour of need.
I'd shoot for 7 to 9 degrees... that should be enough to keep it straight... but I'm sure others may have a better idea.
Diggers and some altereds will sometimes run as much as 17 degrees of caster. When you try and back up if with that much caster the front end will flop over and rip the wheel out of your hand if you are not carefull. As the other poster said 7-9 degrees shoud be fine, but you could go for a little more maybe 10 or 11 degrees as the wheels are further out and it will be easier to steer and it will give you that leaned over front wheels look of a dragster.
Thanks so much Krooser and 117harv. The H.A.M.B. is the place for the facts and insightful information that can't be found anywhere else. I am taking my axle, pins and gauge blocks to a surface plate tomorrow. Even though Tim29A is convinced I am splitting hairs again. I know he is right, yet I must find out for sure what I am starting with.
I'm running 10* in my drag car, and it keeps it going nice & straight down the track. It makes the steering a little hard to turn driving around the pits though. If you are driving only on the street, about 6* would keep the car real stable, and not be too hard to turn at slow speeds.
I would try for 0* but alot of tube axles have some sag in them, and it doesn't seem to be a problem, but tires will wear faster. I run 0* in my car, but a few years ago I raced the car with a bent axle, and it probably had about 5* of neg. CAMBER, but didn't seem to matter.
for a street driven car you want no more than 7*. when i set up cars for for customers i normally go between 5 and 7*.
thanks nova! i think ya got a problem there in yer avatar pic... them tires dont go all the way to ground......
Hello Chuckles, Well, the design is a design in progress. A continuing development. Next thing to fabricate will be the four link rear brackets. The radius rods will run all the way back to the cab. They're mounting location will be hidden, behind fabricated cab sheet metal parts, which will bolt on as the rear of the stock fenders did. The suspension parts as well as all the suspension build so far, front and rear, will be height adjustable, at least for now. Until there is a fully dressed Hemi and six speed bolted in. And cab and box completed.
Good parts, and great fabrication, but I think the truck will be WAY out of proportion. I mean, I am guilty of that crime in the past myself, but this one seems wacky IMO.
Wrong lakeshadow, my brother built this 147" wheel base 35 ford last year. Now this is a street rail mate.
so once you get your rack mounted do yourself a favor. cycle the front suspension and watch what happens to your toe in/out. what your building is an uncontrollable/undrivable death trap.
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