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Gas tank strap help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JDHolmes, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. JDHolmes
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 918

    JDHolmes
    Member
    from Spring TX

    Well, in typical fashion, taking the gastank out of the 40 Plymouth resulted in twisting off the bolt heads off of the gas tank straps. Being a junk collector (per my spouse), I have a 42 also so thought I'd try again and take the straps off that tank and use on the 40.

    You know, they just don't make 68 year old bolts like they used to. Even being careful, both twisted off. I've already called a couple of Plymouth parts sellers and in one case, the guy actually laughed at me when asking after a strap.

    So...in true hot rod fashion, I'm looking for another way. Anyone have any idea of the name of those bolts riveted onto the end of the gas tank straps? How did you solve this problem when you came up against it (notice I didn't ask if you did) :)

    I've got an idea or two, but both will look like hammered dog crap when complete, though they will work so I'd like to get something that looks semi-original (neat) rather than cobbled together.
     
  2. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,174

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A picture or two would help, since most of us are not familiar with the specifics of a '40 Plymouth strap. Going by the straps on my car, which are captured T-bolts, I'd think it would be pretty easy to fab some up.
     
  3. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,221

    F&J
    Member

    ^ What he said about "captured T bolt".

    Start with a 3/8" dia carriage bolt that is almost all threaded. Cut the head off. Now weld a 3/8" piece of round rod same width as the strap. Weld it like a T to the sawed end.

    Now get 16 Gauge strap material from the scrapyard etc, for cheap, or maybe Fastenall store, hardware store $$$.

    Make a paper pattern to wrap around the T. It will have a long oval slot. The oval slot when wrapped around, lets the T bolt swivel to line up to your frame better. Make the pattern so it wraps around and comes back up the strap 2-3". When the paper fits good and the slot size is good, make a metal strap long enough to add the wrap around pattern length.

    You can either use REAL mild steel rivets if you can find some, or just drill some holes though one side, squeeze the strap end up tight, and plug weld through the holes.
     
  4. Flying A
    Joined: Mar 4, 2010
    Posts: 20

    Flying A
    Member

    If the bolts you are speaking of are wrapped inside the strap here is what I have done. Take a bolt of the same size, length and say 3/8" diameter. Cut the hex head off and weld a T bar, 3/8" diameter on the shoulder end of the bolt the width of the strap. Grind it to look pretty like the same configuration. You may have to slit the strap to get it in the saddle or you can open the saddle slightly with a vice and a hammer and the new T bolt will slide right in. Then, don't tell anyone that it is not a stock item for your 40 and nobody will ever know the difference.

    Also McMaster Carr carries them.
     

  5. I got a Chebby that is nearly all rusted away underneath in true mid-west fasion. I know it probably doesn't count as trad and certainly won't win me any show points but I'm using 1/8" cable passed through some fuel line on mine.

    GM used T bolts on most of their gas tank straps.
     
  6. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,280

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Look through the muscle car and Ford resto parts catalogs. Find some straps that come close. Modify the "easy side". Done. No worries. New straps.
     
  7. JDHolmes
    Joined: Nov 25, 2006
    Posts: 918

    JDHolmes
    Member
    from Spring TX

    Great ideas and thanks. Sorry no pictures with me.

    These are not captured T bolts but I could make that work. I like your idea Highlander as it's the simplest if available in the same "style".

    For those interested, the bolts are attached to a flat piece of metal (all one piece, bolt and "flap"). The flap is riveted between two pieces of strap in the same alignment as the strap. The "nut" is actually a 3/8 nut with 3/4 head and is 1.5" long and hollow which covers most of the bolt.

    thanks again, I knew I could count of the folks here to come up with an inventive solution
     

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