I've been collecting parts and tools to build a early/mid 60's style gas altered T. I'm ready to start the chassis but I have one last question regarding material specs before I dive in. I was going to use a pair of Model A rails I have, but after looking at them I'd rather start with new steel and not have to spend the time filling holes and prepping rusty steel. So my thought was to just go pick up a length of 2x3 1/8th and start the chassis. My question is this though. I have 20' of 2x2 3/16th material in the shop, and I'm wondering if it will be as strong as the 2x3 1/8th material? From the mid plate back will be an SFI 10.3 spec cage and I'll be running motor plates front and back, so the only part that'll be unsupported 2x2 will be from the front motor plate to the forward cross member. Also the rear axle will be rigidly mounted. Thoughts?
If you are building a a spec cage you should build the rest of the car to go with it or they will not let you on the track. Does the rule book give you any insite? On a shot wheelbase car I would think that the 2x2x3/16 would be sufficient but like I said you should probably follow the rules.
Tube frames were legal in 1964, might be the way to go, especially with upgraded cage and such. One of my favorites from back then. Larry T
NHRA are not fond of right-angled tubing.If you plan on running in the 9's a round tube chassis would be a good consideration
I'll be running at a local 1/8th mile unsanctioned track for the most part and mostly during the vintage weekends. My chassis inspiration comes from the BFD by SamIyam and Church Key's Topolino. I'm following sfi 10.3 on the cage for safety. Also, I'll order up a 2012 NHRA rule book tonight to see how far off what I have in mind is to what NHRA wants.
The nhra rule book will be some help but call sfi and order the 10.3 spec - that'll give you the info that you need. Part of the 10.3 spec will be the frame rail sizes (upper and lower) - there won't be any mild steel nor square tubing. The nhra rule book will give you general regulations and will advise you to what sfi spec to build for but there are too many different sfi specs and variations within those specs taht the rule book cannot contain all of them.
I do have sfi 10.3. It's 90% specific to the cage and for modern altered cars 7.50 and slower. I will no doubt fall into that "slower" category. I want a safe car obviously, but I also want the correct vintage feel to the thing. The idea was to put together a car that looked like a couple of regular guys built in a garage in '62/'63. The modern cage is a concession, but worth it.
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