Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Thanks. This whole wiring deal got started because I wanted to insure the electric wiper motor and linkage was not going to snag a wire. I used shrink on the connectors to the wiper motor because they are exposed to the weather with the vent open.

 

I've been working on finishing the dash so I cold remove it for storage. I installed the glove box and found that it really limits the amount you can pivot the dash.
I hooked up the battery to the engine harness (temporary) so I could verify all the switches and harness connections. All good so far. I had to extend the wires to the dimmer switch. After I checked the headlight and turn in the front, I twisted the wires together for the Park/turn light to see how bright they are. Looks good. Then I wanted to see the Halogen sealed beams I bought; so I had to dig out my headlight bucket candidates. After 3 days of cleaning ,blasting and repair I have enough to make 2 good ones. I 'll make a hardware store run tomorrow for steel pop rivits, so I can put the buckets together.
Pix show the rust repair on the 2nd best unit.

 

One headlight bucket done and assembled; the other waiting for the spring and adjuster kit

 

Man you are making such good progress. "I can see the light" at the end of the tunnel.


"I need my mirror boy"

 

Finally got the light. I bought a pair of Halogen sealed beams and I think they will work well. I took a pic of the one I finished.

LOW beam. I'll finish the wiring this weekend and I'll have to go back to fitting the hood to the cowl.

 

Joel, nice work, question, are you running a mechanical fuel pump, if so does it clear the front cross member?
Thanks

 

Yes, I had to cut a relief in the crossmember to clear it. I'm using an inexpensive Holley; it is the shortest one I could find. I'm headed to bed, but I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow.

 

I think that interference is common to the early Fords. I had to do the same on my 37 to clear the pump.

 

This is the cut I needed for the mech fuel pump.

 

I'm thinking about raising the motor about an 1/2 inch not only to clear the FP to crossmember but to also close the gap between the bellhousing and floor pan. I bought this 37 from someone that put a BBC firewall in it so it has a lot of open space around the bell housing and firewall area.
Keep up the good work I think that blue you chose is perfect
Thanks

 

My clearance pocket in the front crossmember is 9/16 in deep. I could probably raise my engine trans 3/8 in if I had to, with the stock firewall. Caution, I have only found the one fuel pump that will work so far. It is a pretty common pump though.

 

I think I will raise mine and relieve it as well I've never used this type of MM so I don't know how much they will settle pics attached
Thanks Joel

 

You're very welcome. I noticed the mount pads on your crossmember are stepped down as opposed to mine, so I'm wondering if you had a pump like mine; would you have to notch the crossmember? Check out these pix.

Notice the inlet and outlet come out the side instead of the bottom.

 

Joel my mounts appear to be the same as yours, although I may be missing something?
I have another pump that comes out the side, found it last night. My biggest issue is routing exhaust around the 525 steering box right now, I going to raise the motor up about an 1/2 inch and see if that helps me, I'm about to go out through the inner fender like you.
Also can you get away with a solid mounted fuel inlet line as shown?
Thanks Joel!

 

I used these engine mounts on another 4o back in the 80s and those biscuits allow very little movement. The fuel line is anchored with rubber clamps that allow small movement and the first anchor is about 24" back along the frame.
I have a suggestion on the exhaust/ steering box issue. If you could find 2 chevy truck right side manifolds (67-72 I think), you cut the lower curved part on both off. You cut one above the bend and the other below the bend. Mock up the two longer pieces and fit/ rotate the joint until it put the exhaust pipe flange between the steering box and the engine. Braze the 2 pieces together.
I bought the headers flanges and mandrel tubing from speedway and I made the transitions. They are 4 tubes(1 5/8") into 2 tubes (2") into a 3 1/2 collector. I had to make the collector section removable to permit assembly

 

I am no expert on this but I would not use copper for a fuel line, especially at a location like this that will be exposed to the vibration and flex between the frame and engine. I suppose you have a piece of rubber hose between the main fuel line and the copper we can see attached to the pump.

 

The line is copper coated steel; I think it's still available, but it's not common today.

 

Thanks Joel, I'll consider that option as well.

 

Oh yes, I had heard of it recently.... here on the HAMB I think...

 

Finally finished the headlight rebuild, so I went on to the taillights. I have a pair of repop taillight assy. and I test fitted them to the fenders a while back. I wasn't happy with the way they fit and I could see some grinding on the opening was necessary. After going through my stash of originals, all of which had rust holes in the bottom and the bulb sockets were shot, I decided to cut them and the repops in two. I got one done today. These are pix of the top of the second best original and the back off the repo.
first pic is the throw away pieces; then welded; then ground.

 

Small progress on the taillights. I found 3 more taillights that didn't need to be cut in two. I welded the
screw holes for mounting the lens covers shut and retapped them. I got the bulb sockets from Carpenter and saved the mounting bracket from 2 of the lights.

I used Eastwoods plating kit on the brackets, pressed the sockets in, and added a ground wire to the socket. I'm waiting for the loom kit from Drake; it has to go in before the bulb socket.
Merry Christmas !

 

I like how there are shelves built into the door panel on this pic. Very handy.

 

Good one , I had to look.

 

Small update. I finished the wiring to the rear of the car, painted the inside of the tool tray, installed the glove box door ( 4 hrs getting the latch in), made a tool to seat the conduit connector into the tail light bucket, and finally finished the port work on the first head.
My goal is to get all non body work things done this winter, so that , when the weather breaks, I can finish body work and finally PAINT.

The finished head.
new package shelf
rear wiring harness

tool tray and complete dash.

 

Moving right along Joel! Maybe we will get our coupes on the road about the same time.

 

Summer is getting closer, go man go! Looks good!

 

I'd be happy with 2nd place , if I knew it would be driving by August.

 

Nice build, i've been dropping in and out as it progresses. I just noticed your shifter location, just behind the trans cover. Mine's in the same place, but my bench sits in top of it, yours doesn't, is that the stock location? If its been moved back, is the pedal distance still ok?

 

Thanks, the seat will go forward all the way, but I made a new shifter mounting plate that moved the shifter closer to the dash 1 in. and down about the same. the handle is originally designed for a truck I think and it bends forward. I bought it from Hurst. Here is a pic.

The part number is 4331

 

Great work.