Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Joel, your 40 is looking better with each post.

 

Those are the ones ; there goes my chance at a Riddler. Thanks Sam.

Thanks for watching and your comments.

 

Yes I have to assume that you want to drive your coupe rather than put it in a glass enclosure 350 days a year. Relegated to a life of being rolled from that enclosure into an enclosed trailer to be hauled to the next indoor car show then rolled out and cleaned and prepped by a crew of 10 for the masses to see from at least 10 feet away.

Not that there is anything wrong with that.I enjoy looking at show cars. I just think after all this work you will want to drive this car and enjoy it. So yes do not spend a lot of time and effort smoothing spot welds that will not show. That my friend is my humble editorial opinion for today. Who needs a Riddler trophy when you can actually have car you can drive? Have a great day Joel!

 

I highly recommend this stuff it does wonders for getting panels straight. Beats spray paint guide coats and it is a lifetime supply if you do not knock it over.

 

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Right on Sam. Eye appointment tomorrow AM; then back to sanding


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I had Mike paint that area with undercoat and then spray some clear on so it would be easier to clean mud and road grit off of.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I kind of wondered if that was effective. I have applied a thinned, single coat of sealer before and blocked that mostly off. Then re-applied sealer.

 

I'm going to coat the backside of the fenders with something, but I like the color on the body part.

 

I had to add a little more filler in a couple of places; it's sanded out now and I'll shoot some K36 tomorrow

I left a couple of nicks for tomorrow. It's 10:00; that's enough today.

I'll have to do some re-masking after the K36.

 

I put about 1 1/2 coats of K36 on today and I'd like to comment on my HVLP learning progress. I've been using a deVilbiss FLG4 and I tried a 1.5 mm tip to spray the DPLF and it didn't seem large enough,
so I switched to a 1.8mm tip. I figured that should work for the K36 also since I wasn't adding reducer. I have always used a Binks 7 with 45psig line pressure with no problems. Unreduced K36 has a pot life of 1/2 hour. I barely emptied the cup in 1/2 hour and didn't get 2 full coats on ( recommended thickness). So tomorrow I'm going to sand whats on there and then thin a new mix of K36 about 10-12 % and use the 1.5 tip for 2 more coats. I'm hopeing it will lay out more like I'm used to.
This is not a problem; I'm just trying to get used to what these guns will do.

More tomorrow and that pink shadow in the first pic must be some weird light thing.

 

I thought you might be a Carey Grant fan for awhile there! Just kidding! Looking good! Thanks for sharing your primer gun info, as I said we will be getting to that phase pretty soon and don't have much experience and may need to buy a gun or two.

 

Operation petticoat, great movie. I'm just trying to get a handle on these new fangled guns.


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Sanding is done for now and I also re-masked the fenderwell area; too much dust in the old paper and the tape was coming loose. I sprayed sealer tonight and will spray color tomorrow AM.
The Blue is pretty translucent and I like how it looks over this DPLF 74. I did this on the firewall.

 

Blue? All I see is red! I am anxious to see the blue.

 

Here it is finally; paint on the body. Now I have to move the car to another stall so I have room to work on the doors and deck lid.

 

Looks almost black. Whats the name or number of this color Joel?

 

In '67 it was Deepwater Blue, a GM color. I had a Camaro this color. In '65or '66 I think it was Midnight Blue. It had several names over a 3 or 4 year span, but the same formula. It has a small metallic in it, but it takes the sun to bring it out.

 

Nice!

 

are you using single or two stage paint?

 

So far it's single stage. The color is available in acrylic enamel or base/clear. I'm using Delstar. I have the possibility of getting the paint done by a good shop and he uses base/clear. I don't know if I'll be able to get the prep done by the time he has an opening.


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The next parts to work are the doors, which I skipped over except for aligning to the body when I bolted it back on the frame. The passenger side was pretty good, but I spent about 4 hours removing some little "wubaas " from the skin.

The drivers door needed more work and it had some surface rust from handling. I used some Eastwood rust dissolver to take off the hand prints. It's not real strong but worked well.

Then wash off with plain water.

I'm still working on this one. I put a new bottom in a couple of years ago and used a stud gun to pull out some low spots. I found that welding the studs on caused the skin to shrink a little so I'm working out some flat spots. Hopefully I'll put some DP on these this weekend.

 

Finally got some DP on the doors; I had a miserable cold last week and didn't get much done.

 

Did you fix the bottoms with EMS panels or go homemade? The panels are expensive and require you buying inside and outside. I have both doors needing bottoms but the outer skin only needs small patches at one or two places on the bottom edge.

 

looking good joel! im going to drop my coupe off for you when you get yours done! ha!

 

I used the EMS bottom only and the front to back curvature was pretty good, but you have to tweak a lot of things. I had to work the bottom lip so that the skin folded back properly. the EMS piece is thicker than original and folding the skin around it can cause distortions in the door skin. I would patch your door skin before installing the new bottom so you can tell what's going on. Here's how mine looks. I tried to trim/ fit it like the original.

If you have the ability to shape that bottom, you might try it , other wise I'd say it's worth the money for the bottom piece. The outer skin might be a different story, I didn't use it.

 

Nice work on the doors Joel! I just went back and read the first few pages of your thread this morning. You have come along way. You are a true do it yourselfer!

 

Thanks Sam. I am considering having someone spray the color once I get the prep done.


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Making some great progress joel, thanks again for the assist on my door handle issue. Here is a pic of my 40, I can share your pain when it comes to getting all those compound curves just right!

 

Great car! I wouldn't want to mess that paint up either. What dia. are those wheels? 17? my doors are fair, but will need a little "Bodyman-in-a-can".