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Hot Rods Fuse panel and battery in the trunk tricks

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kiwi 4d, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,671

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Needing to extend your harness wires (from the trunk leads) to reach the dash/engine area along with the possibility of upsizing the wire gauge, I'd say start from scratch.
    Or, how about contacting the harness supplier and see if adding 8' of length really requires upsizing the harness gauge. If it does, see if they'll build your desired harness assy. customized w/ one up on the wire gauge and extra length tailed off on all the leads. Can't be all that much and it'll save you the labor of straight splicing, and hoping you get the correct gauge etc.
     
  2. Sixtigers
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 24

    Sixtigers
    Member

    I'm having a brain cloud over this. Wouldn't the starter cable with just a single solenoid only have power on it when starting? I'm not seeing what two solenoids is doing for you. I get that the goal is isolation of the hot, fat cable to the starter...but doesn't a single solenoid accomplish this?

    ETA: Never mind--I see it. The output of the alternator is no longer connected to the hot cable of the starter with your setup. In the event of an accident that doesn't kill your motor, that cable remains cold, whereas with a single solenoid setup the alternator constantly powers that cable. I get it. I like it!

    Does the second solenoid only have a "S" (start) terminal? If so, where did you find it?
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
  3. Hey, Sixtigers, did you click the link at the end of my post? The alternator wire theory was not a consideration. The theory that I had which may or may not be flawed is that when I turn the ignition key on there is very little amperage being transmitted because all it does is pull in that first relay which in turn Powers up everything on the car that's supposed to be powered on. Of course my security system and radio memory and door opening solenoid controller and something else I can't remember right now are on full-time and are fed through fuses their respective circuits. Unanticipated issue with all those 0.02 amp circuits is that if I don't drive it for a couple of weeks I have to disconnect the battery or put a trickle charge on it. Basically the first relay powers up the fuse block. Maybe I over thought all this but it works perfectly.

    I don't remember exactly where I got them but here is a link for virtually the same thing :
    https://www.amazon.com/QuickCar-Racing-Products-50-430-Solenoid/dp/B003TTYSH0
     
  4. '49, I read all your posts regarding starter solenoids, still not clear to me. Could you post a starter/alternator/mega fuse, fuse box, battery schematic for us slow learner's. I like the idea of keeping the big juices contained to a small area except when it's really needed. Thanks.

    Phil
     
  5. I'll try.... it's been a few years.....
     
  6. k32t
    Joined: Jan 2, 2011
    Posts: 295

    k32t
    Member
    from Hog town

    I'm no expert but I saw a removable fuse panel under the passenger side of a 32.pull it out to work on it then it goes back in to its original location. just make the wires a little longer.
     
  7. A hand drawn schematic like those on your smug page would be adequate to help me follow the circuits. Thanks.

    Phil
     
  8. mohead1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2013
    Posts: 599

    mohead1
    Member

    Funny.....prob true...
    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
     

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