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Technical Fuse Box Bus Bar Fried

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Rick Dilts, Jan 6, 2021.

  1. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    I installed one of the Speedway 22 circuit wiring harnesses and upon turning on the key for the first time, I fried the bus bar on the back of my fuse box. I've got the battery mounted behind the seat, which will be a pain to keep the battery charged or jumped, so I hooked up remote terminals under the hood. Rather than running the positive cable straight from the battery to the fuse box, I've got the positive cable coming off the positive terminal of the remote post and this goes to my fuse box. My question is, this shouldn't have caused some sort of anomoly with my power should it? I'm guessing I've got something hooked up wrong but wanted to rule out tapping into the 12v power at the remote rather than directly to the battery terminal.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 26,620

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    need more pics - what size wire using from battery to remote terminals? - why running to fuse box?
    - battery charging does not run through fuse panel - what are you using for ground side of remote terminals?
     
  3. Pat Thompson
    Joined: Apr 29, 2012
    Posts: 225

    Pat Thompson
    Member

    My battery is behind my rear seat. When I need to charge it, I hook a small charger to the hot post on my alternator. Seems to work well.
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  4. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 6,762

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I hope you had a fusible link on the main lead to your fuse block? I always put one as close to the battery as possible, and usually use something around 60a-80a.
    Make sure you're on the correct red wire also. Having this blow the buss bar in the fuse black tells me you've got a dead short somewhere in your wiring.
     

  5. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 996

    jaracer
    Member

    Somewhere you have bat + connected to bat -. Some other circuit got very hot, that's what you need to find.
     
  6. Redrodguy
    Joined: Nov 18, 2016
    Posts: 108

    Redrodguy
    Member

    Did it fry when you connected the battery lead or when you turned the key on?
     
  7. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    It fried when I turned on the key.
     
  8. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    Unfortunately, I did not have a fuseable link installed. Will be doing that next. Wiring is definitely not my strong suit. What size fuse would you recommend?
     
  9. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    D'oh. I see now that you mentioned 60-80 amp. Thanks.
     
  10. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    Jalopy Joker - I'm going to draw it out when I get home tonight and post later on. I can't remember what I've got running where so I want to get this right. I'm sure you'll be able to look at it and go wtf.
     
  11. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 7,643

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I use circuit breakers rather then fusible links. Easy to reset if you have an issue.
    I install on the line in from the alt and other on the line out from the battery.
    You can see them over here in my truck under construction. Battery is under the seat. Those are 100 amp each.
    upload_2021-1-6_11-42-53.png
     
  12. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    Ok, this is what I've got going on. As you've probably guessed, electrical is not my strong suit. I'd like to keep the remote terminals so I can jump start if need be but I'm sure there's something funky here. I'm using 2 gage wire on all the battery leads.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    I'm guessing this could be part of my issue as well. Instructions aren't great and interweb didn't help much either. Anyone got any experience with the Chevy column ignition plugs?
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Cheap import fuse panel....
     
  15. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 547

    fordflambe
    Member

    This is from Summit Racing part number 8900001 instruction sheet..........

    upload_2021-1-6_19-42-37.png
     
  16. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 929

    24riverview
    Member

    Possible problem with your black plug. The wire at the white arrow is in a spot that goes to ground when cranking, if it was a battery lead it probably should have been in the spot with red arrow. The yellow arrow is a ignition feed, possibly going to fuse panel, I don't believe it will work without a battery feed at red arrow. Any idea whose harness this is?
    20210106_191814-1.jpg
     
  17. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 929

    24riverview
    Member

    Last edited: Jan 6, 2021
  18. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

  19. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 26,620

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    Hope that you have a fusible link in alt wire - it can short out and cause problems

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  20. Frank Carey
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 524

    Frank Carey
    Member

    Chev column ignition plugs? I'm using 1970s Jeep column that I believe was made by GM. My ignition switch has a terminal that goes to ground when key is in START position. In all other key positions there is nothing on this terminal. I'm not using this terminal. If you wired this terminal and it somehow connects to 12V, turning key to START will create a short and bad things will happen. Hope this helps.
     
  21. Onemansjunk
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 224

    Onemansjunk
    Member
    from Modesto,CA

    If my memory serves me, GM ignition switches mounted on their steering columns are not the same. Tilt and none tilt columns use different Ignition Switches. Wired differently. Investigate which switch you have.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2021
    alanp561 and Elcohaulic like this.
  22. Maicobreako
    Joined: Jun 25, 2018
    Posts: 127

    Maicobreako
    Member

  23. Illustrious Hector
    Joined: Jun 15, 2020
    Posts: 147

    Illustrious Hector
    Member
    from Alberta

    Did you re
     
  24. The exact same thing happened in my 51 Chevy. I also used the same fuse block from speedway. Never could find a reason why it did that. Nothing shorted and I had a 50 amp maxi fuse installed in it. I ended up taking a cheap relay apart to use the brass terminals for the wire connectors and soldered it across the burnt area. Worked perfect for another 5 years before I sold it. I figure it was just a cheap thin spot.
     
  25. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 6,762

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Bet you'd see the same thing happen with ANY fuse block if it's not protected and it's dead shorted.
     
    Jalopy Joker likes this.
  26. No, you shouldn't see this. If the panel buss was adequate for the connected load, the wire would have melted.

    Yet another example of the substandard crap some of the electrical aftermarket foists off on us in our ignorance.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2021
  27. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    While I'd love to blame this on cheap imported parts, I'm guessing that my wiring is at fault here.
    Can anyone find any fault in how I wired everything in drawing up above? I'd like to start with the obvious.
     
  28. I don't see anything obvious in your drawing, but lack of detail doesn't help.

    Best advice is to start by isolating each wire (disconnect one or both ends; make sure the load end is lifted) and then check if it reads to ground. If in fact you do have a dead short in the wiring, this will find it. A bad device may be tougher to find, you'll need to know what it's supposed to draw. If it's this or an overload, it gets more complicated.
     
    Boneyard51 and TrailerTrashToo like this.
  29. Rick Dilts
    Joined: Aug 24, 2018
    Posts: 29

    Rick Dilts

    Ok, you'll have to simplify what you mean, Steve. What do you mean by "check if it reads to ground"? Are you saying to simply put an ohm meter on the end of each wire once disconnected?
     
  30. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 26,620

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    what type of remote terminal set up using & where mounted? - with so few details hard to narrow down problems - eliminate wire going from remote terminal to fuse panel - on wire going from starter to column move to fuse panel - before panel install inline Max 50amp fuse assembly (Bussman/Painless) - go to speedwaymotors.com and order great basic wiring booklet "How to Wire Your Streetrod From Start to Finish" ( do not let title scare you)
     

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