Technical Fuelish Mistake

I) THE ISSUE: Todays problem is the fuel line on the front 97, I am making hard contact (touching) with the radiator support rod. I have the motor as low as I can possibly get it so I cant go South. I could go North with carb spacers but that is going to look nasty I think. I could go banjo fittings but I love my moon fuel block that I mounted to the carb adapter, I could remove the radiator rod or manipulate it somehow (weld a ring in it around the fuel line?), maybe run red plastic fuel line from the block to the carbs with banjos and barb fittings? I know if I start the engine that aluminum fuel line wont last 5 minutes as is. Add engine torque and it will be gone faster than that.
II) THE PICTURES:


III) THE SOLUTIONS: Here is where you come up with the fix. Please add input, ideas and pictures (please) below.

 

Any chance of moving the support rods an inch higher ?
Even just doing so on the firewall end might be enough.

 

Bend the support rod. This used to be common in such cases. Put a Z bend in each end sufficient to clear. This will probably mean making a new rod.

 

Can you put a 90 degree fitting on the carb pointing down and then bend up a new fuel line?

 

DO Not the red flexible lines, there is a thread on it already showing the dangers.

 

^^^ 2 x new shaped rods won't look out of place, make them both symmetrical and no one will know. I went to use the OEM rod on my 35 Chevy which was bent at the factory to clear air cleaner. It looked dorky with a bend on one side so I made a new straight rods, problem solved. You are going the other way and bending it to clear. A right angle fitting on carb would necessitate similar fittings on others for aesthetics.

 

Shim up the radiator? That is, if you're not going to run a hood.

 

Hook your engine crane on the support rod and lift the rod up a quarter inch and readjust the length.

 

My .O2C...... leave the rods alone. Your gonna have to fudge that line some. Yes- a pain since it's all Purdy, but for the functional fact, and a real car guy's eye, those who know will get it and understand. Not everything in the world is perfect...... You can just re-contour the line, or open up a big bag of worms.....
At least I would see the reasoning,and not question..........OR- new mounting of the rods at the front a lil higher. maybe a shim to move both up a tad.

 

Just make another fuel line, better than changing the support rod, it would look cool with a nice curve under the rad support rod, no big deal.

 

Is there enough meat to machine 3/8" off the carb pads?

 

Is it possible to start a downward bend where the line exits the carb and duck under the support rod ?

 

Wow, that is why I call you guys my brain trust. Ask a question, get a ton of ideas.

BlueOne, the rear rod supports are 34 supports tucked flush under the cowl on the firewall, no movement there. The front support is brass and part of the upper tank. I guess I could look at having a radiator shop raise that bracket but hood clearance may become an issue. I plan to run a hood top...jury still out and working with Rootlieb right now on that one.

Grumbler and Dino64 (really? 64 Dino Ferrari? Honey hush) , I don't see it. It will make the front line look like an afterthought (which it is) and not match the other lines.

Fatmatt, I looked at that tonight coincidentally. I'm not sure if I can move the carbs down as the throttle linkage will come in contact with the carb adapter. I think they are where they are.

Slopok, I read that thread and it scared me a little. I have seen guys run ruby red for years but with all this damn corn in our fuel, who knows what the line will hold. I only have two stations that still sell clear fuel locally and they are a drive for me. With the mileage of this blown flatty I may be out of gas by the time I get home from filling up.

1927Graham, the line can't be bent under the rod. As soon as it come out it in conflict with that support rod. Any tighter bend and I will contact the throttle linkage.

Themoose, how the hell did you do that? You gots skills. I have been playing with that idea this evening. I don't TIG but I could have a buddy assist on that bend, weld, grind and polish. If you were at Pomona and saw that bend would it say rookie error though?

Invisiblekid, you get what I just commented on. This is the kind of stuff I see when I look over a car build and I have been trying so hard to prevent it. Thus my request for help. I was really upset last night when I put that support rod on and realized my situation in regard to that fuel line.

Dudley32, I plan to run a hood top, but your suggestion is worth investigating. Tomorrow I will re-install the line and see what a little spacer under the radiator mounting pads would do to the geometry of the front end. The only question is the flathead should twist to the right when I stab it. I am using ford mounting pads on my own mounts. I expect that flatty to move at least 1/2" to an inch which will put the fuel line back in contact under power. Is that right? I know the distributor spins clockwise, which means the crank does too right? So the left side will climb when it is stabbed?

mgtstumpy, here is another one I did not think about. Re-shaping both rods with the same move would retain a symmetry to the design. To the casual observer it may appear original. I would just need two longer stainless rods, bend them and thread them. Id have to bend them on the car or measure a lot since the rear of the rods are square keyed into the firewall retainers. Hmmm.

Rusty, similar resolve as above. Done wrong this could look like ass with no hood. I will experiment.

Oldolds...like that name since I own one. I need the look to be more thoughtful and planned out if you get my point.

Ill go play in the garage for a bit, back with you later. Thank you guys!!!

 

post a full pic of engine area showing radiator & firewall. got some long wooden dowels, or soft small diam tubing to mess with? the radiator support rods do not need to go straight back to firewall to do the job of stabilizing rad.

 

If you're worried about engine movement under power, you could add a strap from the block to the frame to help hold the block in place. Think tri-5 Chev drag cars in the '60's that had a strap(or sometimes a chain) on the left side to keep from breaking motor mounts under power.

 

drtcrV-8, good call. I might have the engine torque backwards. If the distributor turns clockwise on a 8BA, does that mean the crank turns clockwise as well? If so the torque will move the motor down on the left side and provide additional clearance. Is that correct? If so I need only a half inch or so on that fuel line. Can someone clarify?

 

I think to achieve Moose's solution all you need is access to a hydraulic press - no cutting and welding. Getting the kinks in exactly the right place such that everything is where you want it will be interesting.

 

Is ther a 90 degree fitting that you can put in the carb end to direct it down, then form a new line?

 

Dino Ferrari, that's funny. IMHO, and with all due respect to those more experienced than me, bending the rods would look like things weren't planned out too well. Restraining the engine wouldn't guarantee no damage and would be a constant worry. Shimming the rad and body, remounting the rods seems like a lot of work for a fuel line. My 2cts is redo the fuel lines so the front one clears, then match the other two. I'm going for a ride in my Ferrari now !

 

A conventional American V-8 engine tends to 'lift' on the left(drivers)side under power, which was the reason for the frame strap on the left : to keep from breaking the left motor mount.

 

Looks like you'll have to machine the intake down or rebend all the lines with a little kick in the to turn into the fuel bowl. From what I've seen of those intake adaptors there is plenty of meat you can machine, like .1875 off the mating base to the blower and another .1875 off the top of the carb mounting pad to get a total of 3/8ths. Might get more off the mounting pad and not have to touch the base.
Rubber isn't a solution, it is thicker than the tube you have and will hit worse.
There is enough of the tube exposed to make a bend for clearance, but it'll look like what it is and you'll have to do it it all three.
Not really any options, time to pull the manifold and measure to see if machining is possible.

 

Cut a 1'x1' piece of wood so it fits between the fitting and the blower snout. Now gently press down on the outside 90 degree bend until you can see daylight under the support rod.

 

mark fuel line and support rod and dimple each till thry miss each other

 

Ok, no 90 degree fittings, I get why. How about steel braided flex lines then, all three. All this talk about machining and shimming seems like overkill to me

 

Hi. If you have access to a tubing bender, flair & cut off tool set you could remove the line and put a slight downward kick between the carb fitting and the first 90. Then shorten to other end of that line the same amount as the kick you just put in and hook back up. You would want to get this cutoff right so the line would still be level.

Jimmie

 

I have not had a chance to get out to the garage today. Took the wife out for a pre-VD dinner to beat the crowds. Ill dive in tomorrow and try some of the remedies mentioned above. Ill post up the outcomes tomorrow. Thanks everyone, id be over my head if it hasn't for the help on this site. May the fords be with you.

 

Billy
This post clearly sounds like you have mixed up your chat boards

 

So.... Move the fuel line.
Simplest solution and that is what's in the way - treating the problem.

Or move the support rod around the blower since there's not supposed to be a blower in there. Treating the symptom.

Just remember that just one change creates 2. Make sure you don't go past 5 changes and it will be easy.


You'll not have reverse torque , the left side will lift against the mount.

 

I didn't see anyone suggest throwing some spacers under the carbs so the fuel line goes over the support rod. Not sure how it would look but would fix the problem.