Im about to embark on doing the fuel line for my new setup on my ford 302. I want to make a very dependable system... and don't want vapor lock issues.. per QFT recommendations.. I'm Using a 110Gph Qft pump ( yeah its a lot of pump.. but they said it won't hurt anything or make much difference ) - mae by Holley im sure-... a QFT HR series 580 carb.. QFT fuel pressure regulator... Summit high flow paper filter for after the pump. See attached for my thoughts on fuel line routing.. I know most folks normally just go up the side of the engine and across to the carb.. this just seems like a fuel heater to me. See if you see any issues. I have other thoughts as well. For now.. just mounting the regulator on passengers fender with gauge on one port and coming out the other black braided stainless over to the carb feed line. both 6an connections. and all my fuel line is 3/8. I see a lot of magazine articles when doing searches on the topic and most show regulators mounted directly to the head... this doens't seem like a good idea.. you'll see that in the picture where I was just kinda moving it around looking at fitment. Thoughts? What I have seems like the best way to keep fuel cooler.. yes or no?
I re-worked the fuel line in an OT last year due to gremlins that were spoiling my fun on the drag strip. I installed a TanksInc tank with in tank electric pump so I didn't have to look at the pump or hear it (surprisingly quiet). It requires the same size delivery line as it does return line to the tank. To accomplish that I used a fuel regulator with return port that could be cranked down to 4-5 pounds if necessary since the TanksInc pump is built for fuel injection and I am carbureted. I also mounted a fuel pressure gauge that reads 1 to 15 pounds on the regulator. I mounted the return regulator on the frame rail just below the firewall since I did not want to look at it. I installed a fuel filter after the regulator in 3/8 hard line. I ran the hard line up the firewall and turned the dual feed supply line around backward so it pointed at the firewall and made a simple connection to the system with a short piece of rubber line. NHRA tech says you cannot have more than 12 inches of rubber so I used it only at the tank and the carb, all else is hard lined. The only issues I see with your design is that the regulator is going to boil fuel if you attach it to the head and the fuel line routing is under and adjacent the header on the right side. I suppose you could insolate the hell out of it with that NASA slip over covering but you might want to re-think the routing to keep that fuel line as cool as possible. Fuel, like revenge, is a dish best served cold. I hope some of this helps.
I hoped to actually mount it in front of the engine closer to the battery there.. hard to see in the pic.. more in line with the alternator. and have the fuel line go right over the alternator and to the feedline. that pic with the engine shows what I read on the magazine articles.. which doesnt seem like a good idea.. Would having the fuel line on the leading edge of that crossmember help to cool the fuel.. its just below the front bumper. as far as how low it goes. like I mentioned I would want to keep the fuel line in front of all exhaust components. one guy on facebook recommended doing a firewall install.. but I read bad things about that. looks nice. but also seems to be a hot area right over the passengers valve cover.
A fuel filter with a return line placed between the pump and carb will work for most street installations to eliminate Vapor lock. I have used: Fram G3583DP Wix 33040 AC Delco GF 426 Purolator F21117 They work well without the need for a pressure regulator, but if you are looking a lot of fuel flow for racing situations I would go with Bandit-Billy’s suggestions.
He has to run a regulator or that 110 GPh fuel pump will blow the needle and seat right out of that Holley. He needs to lose over a hundred pounds...come to think of it so do I after the last couple of weeks. My install is good for 3 reasons; A. it worked great for the last year and a half since the re-design 2. you cant see I did anything other than a block off plate especially with the air cleaner on. and D. It was someone else's idea, I just stole it.
nice traditional looking motor motor - what kind of horsepower? - so, have you had fuel overheating problems before? - you mention putting regulator on fender but, picture on motor - not going to cool fuel anymore by going around crossmember than through it - you already have a carb spacer, which is good - for extra protection that you are looking for search - taylorproducts.com - Fire Shield Tubing Cover, and - techflex.com -for other coverings
Recently did a full line run for my future daily driver. Out of and across the front of the tank with -6 Teflon braided line to the right side frame rail. 90 degree tube style fitting into a large inline filter. From the filter to a Carter pump, all the way to the right side fender well where the regulator is mounted. Then -6 lines out of both sides of the regulator, one to the secondary bowl, one to a pressure gauge then to the primary bowl. Why did I go to the expense of using the braided Teflon...because 1. I don't want any rubber failures like I've had in the past with rubber braided line, this will be my daily driver... 2. because I don't want any future problems with the line...no matter what the government does with the rubber/Viton rotting fuel additives. And for what it's worth, I have run regulators mounted to the cylinder head for years of daily driving with no problems. I also had a Pro Gas Anglia that I put the regulator on the right side cylinder head, no fuel related problems for almost 13 years of ownership/tuning/driving.. Mike
No issues... I am coming from. An edelbrock setup to this and redoing the whole drive line. Just want to do it right the first time. I don't have a Hp number to give its never been on a dyno. It has a moderate street strip cam, bored to 310, flat top pistons, worked over heads, edelbrock intake, and usual engine rebuild goodies. Swapping from a c6 Trans to aod.. From a 2.75 rear gear to a 3. 70 Power Trax. Lowering the engine mounting and setting it back. Adding an msd ignition box. Swapping from gm hei diz to a recurved duraspark by rhp reincarnation.. The distributor cap was a gift.. I may swap it for a small ford cap. I also am. Restoring a dual snorkel air cleaner.
Going to make new snorkels that don't have the vacuum ports. And are more old looking with a flared lip... And no fancy decal on the lid.
I'm a firm believer of tech flex.. I use it for work and play.. I'm an engineer for a television station.. We love the stuff. I put it on every wire visible.
There are good and bad ways to orient hoses between moving parts, like an engine and the frame. http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hub/79679/f...tion.png?t=1449783754650&width=575&height=112
Previously on the edelbrock setup I had thrown in some EFI rubber hose and a napa plastic filter.. it was supposed to be a temporary thing.. it stayed for 8 years. never had an issue with fuel boil or anything.. This setup just starved the motor though.. it wanted more fuel. it was a 500 edelbrock. You can see the motor is in transformation ..
This is sorta how I see most fords done. but I don't know how a regulator would fit into this .. and it seems like it would heat the fuel ? not far off from what I had on my previous setup .. only I used efi line.
I usually get it where ever has the best pricing.. Amazon.. grainger.. ebay even. Im looking for some insultherm right now. thinking about putting that on the fuel line. or something like it.
I think you guys are making this way to difficult. Just look at how the factory plumbed 425 and 450 h.p. muscle cars. Not all of those regulators,lines, mounts,ect. Keep it simple . Best of luck.
1st off, rubber hoses with todays fuel is a car-b-que waiting to happen. This gas eats rubber & will cause it to fail. You need to run high quality PTFE hoses. We run TechAFX, because it's the best in the industry. 2nd thing, is that the firewall above the trans tunnel is the hottest area of the engine bay, esp when the vehicle experiences extended idling time. It can see around 300 degrees on late model cars. The only way to warm up fuel better is to run tubing next to your mufflers. Look over the factory routing, then see where your modifications allow you to route lines away from heat sources.
I didn't plan on using rubber for anything other than flex joints.. and It's EFI line for todays fuel. I think ultimately I want to be all hardline and braided.. Fragola was one I was looking at that had PTFE hoses. I'll look into Tech AFX. I thought about doing the fuel line down the crossmember.. but that looks like it might be a bad location as far as hitting any debris.. would there be any harm in coming out of the fuel pump .. going directly to the filter.. and mounting the regulator on the drivers fenderwell forward of the exhaust and running a PTFE line out of it over to the engine behind the distributor and to the feedline.. kinda like stock would of done. I've looked and I don't see where there are any line length requirements for the regulator to carb. I could use some brackets to keep the line off the engine.
No fuel line or regulator mounted to firewall, read a NHRA rule book, they lay it all out for you. I know its not a race car, but following a good set of rules doesn't hurt. Also, for safety, keep the line inside the frame rails or on top of them.
You have some good ideas, but I don't think you're totally on the right track. If you're using an electric fuel pump, generally you should want to install that as close to the tank as possible. Electric pumps like to push fuel rather than pull it, so the pump should be mounted near the tank. Furthermore, though having a filter up near the carb under the hood is a good idea, the most important thing is to run a good filter before the pump, otherwise rust and other matter will get caught in the pump and destroy it. Also, with a huge pump like that, which is IMHO too large for the engine but I guess it doesn't hurt to have extra fuel volume, you're going to need a real good regulator to keep pressure down or it's going to blow out the needle and seat in the carb. The regulator should have a gauge on it, and be positioned as close to the carb as you can. It doesn't hurt to have another filter in line there too, though stay away from glass filters as always. As far as other plumbing tricks, keep it simple, use a high quality tubing bender, keep the lines as far away from exhaust and moving components as possible, and above the frame scrub line so as to prevent crushing should you ever bottom out. Also, be sure to put a short piece of rubber hose rated for modern fuels between your hard mounted fine and the engine, so as to absorb vibration.
Also, you've mentioned fuel temperature a couple times and keeping the fuel cool. This wouldn't be a concern of mine personally. But if it is that much of an issue for you, plumb in a cool can. If you want to make your plumbing super easy and durable as hell, use swage-lock or yor-lok fittings, which is a double flared fitting. They're good for 3000 psi, will NEVER leak, will make your plumbing a breeze since you can just cut your lines straight, insert and tighten, and will polish up nice too. The bummer is that they can be expensive. They're available through McMaster among other places. I plumbed my lines with these and had nothing but success with them.
Thanks.. The pump is a mechanical.. it is a 6.5-8 psi pump.. 110 gph. Technically would not need a regulator.. but, doens't hurt. per QFT and summit.. It's made to work out of the box with a holley style carb. Summit wanted me to look at a 80 gph unit.. however, it apparently has a lot of fluctuation in psi.. and wasn't quite as good and really preferred to sell the 110 unit and said that the gph would not change how it worked.. just that it would never starve for fuel .. ever. as the pump was rated up to around 800 hp. but would work equally as well for a 250 hp motor. I got a black friday deal on it.. cost about a bit more than a stock 20 gph pump from the local parts store. what the heck pulled the trigger.. the carb manufacturer said it was the way to go.
would a 2.5 ft ptfe line from regulator from drivers fender well be too long? Im thinking about mounting it all on drivers fender and not go to the passengers side. just route the line in a similar fashion as factory on the engine... just jump from firewall over .. and Im thinking a few inches forward of the drive belt and that would locate it about 8.5- 9" forward of the exhaust and there is about a 2" hole in the fender well there for what I don't know.. its a factory hole. this matches the 2" hole in the regulator mount.. All the things I read do not dictate a length .. just " put it inline from pump to carb and put it as close as you can and mount away from heat sources" I've seen a couple mustang articles where they had them mounted on the forward side of the drivers strut tower. This may be the way I roll.
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