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Technical Fuel line and electrical run too close?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Brand Apart, Jan 11, 2020.

  1. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 788

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    Is it safe to run the fuel line along the frame right next to the battery cable and fuel pump wires? The concern I have is in a crash the line could break and the wires could ground and spark. However I swear I've seen OE cars with fuel and 12v next to each other.

    I'm using aluminum fuel line and running on the inside the frame rail and subframe connector. Previous owner has already relocated battery to trunk and now we are adding EFI with an in tank pump. The placement of the pump And an odd shaped tank really would make it much more complicated to run things on opposite frame rails.

    I feel aluminum line is less likely to fail than hose (even in a crash) and I have made barbs with a beading tool at the joints where it is joined to EFI rated hose and clamps from Holley to be safe. This is my teenage sons 65 Valiant so, I'm not trying to skimp on safety.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,813

    squirrel
    Member

    Use steel line, not aluminum or rubber, eh?

    It's safe to run them next to each other, as long as they're both supported with clamps pretty often, not touching sharp or hot stuff, etc.
     
  3. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 7,230

    Budget36
    Member

    Why wouldn't you just run steel line? Regardless, where ever I have a wire that runs through a hole, or along metal (except for taillight/brakelight) I split a heater hose for a loom.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  4. Brand Apart
    Joined: Jan 22, 2011
    Posts: 788

    Brand Apart
    Member
    from Roswell GA

    Thanks, I Got plenty of insulted clamps, and grommets and loom for the wire. I used the aluminum cause it's easier to bend and my beading tool didn't really do a good job on the steel. Only rubber is 2" on each side of the filter and a short run from firewall to throttle body.

    Maybe I'll take the aluminum off and use it as a pattern to make steel. Although I had a steel line rust out on me on an OT. Car in the 90's that was a fun time.
     
    loudbang likes this.

  5. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,790

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    A couple years ago I worked on an authentic 60's built 55 Chevy gasser that had the battery in the trunk along with the gas tank.

    To save time they just wrapped the positive battery cable in a nice long spiral around the aluminum gas line all the way to the starter. Yes I removed it and rearranged their positioning.

    Personally I don't want the positive cable too close to fuel lines. I always ran them on opposite rails.
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  6. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,811

    greybeard360
    Member

    Run the wire up into the trunk then to the front under the sill plates. If the car is ever going to make a pass at a race track the fuel line needs to be outside of the frame rail in case of driveshaft or flywheel failure.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 940

    Mimilan
    Member

    If you're paranoid about it.
    Do what road racers do.............and put a Ford Solenoid next to the battery and bridge the starter solenoid.
    Run a fuel pump relay near the rear. [low ampage is enough to activate this]

    I did a rough schematic on this thread [post # 57]
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...e-you-using-them.1179217/page-2#post-13393734

    With FIA road racing there must be an Isolator [Battery Cut off] switch in series that must kill the engine [and electrics] which is shown in the schematic.
    With this method everything is dead when the Isolator is off [except the wire between the battery and the isolator which has a fusible link]

    If you think you're worried, try motorsport sanctioning bodies [they get sued]

    reposted here:
    Wiring Schematic.JPG
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,813

    squirrel
    Member

    Nhra requires a cut off switch when you relocate the battery, also.

    Sent from my Trimline
     
    Lloyd's paint & glass likes this.
  9. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,144

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    With 45 lbs plus of fuel pressure I wouldn't use clampse for hose to tube connections. Earl's or others have metal tube to High pressure hose couplings with out flaring the tube..
     
    RidgeRunner and kevinrevin like this.
  10. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,270

    oj
    Member

    Since it isn't traditional, FI and all, just do it in -AN stainless braid hose, easier to run and all the fittings are available to connect to the FI stuff. Run the hose in cushioned clamps called 'Adel Clamps'. If you wanted OEM calibre hosing get the stainless braid hose with the PTFE inner liner, the fittings are harder to make up and more limited in variety but OEM cars are full of it.
     
  11. They run hot electric lines inside the gas tank on newer vehicles that have the electric pump in the gas tanks? Some sending units do the same?
     
  12. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,251

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Yes...but they say the atmosphere inside a tank is far too rich to ignite. You need oxygen and fuel in somewhat correct proportion.
    (I know. It makes me uncomfortable too...but apparently thats why it works out!)
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,813

    squirrel
    Member

    Electric fuel senders have been around for many decades...electric in tank pumps, for about 50 years. It's not a problem. Fuel leaks outside the tank, combined with sparks or especially heat, are indeed a problem.
     

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