what would be your recomended fuel filter set up on your basic sbc mech pump set up? i know glass see threws are a bad idea. but what about placment, before or after the pump?both? thanx tim
On a mechanical pump I just use the throw away inline filters. One on each side. If I really want to protect my pump (my electric) I use an old Fram canister filter (10 microns I think). Right where the fuel comes from the tank and before my pump. then I run an inline (throw away) just before the carb/fuel block. You can still buy the Fram filter from most speed supply houses.
I run similar to what PorknBeaner does. It's a small WIX screw-on fuel filter, about 2/3 the size of a PH8a Fram filter. In fact, the fuel filter is adapted to a remote oil filter mount. Done in this case by making a new nipple up to adapt to the fuel filters smaller threads. I don't have the nimber handy, but WIX makes a fuel filter same size as the Fram PH8a (Filter for Fords and also for the remote oil filter mounts) and it screws right on. Regardless of which way you go, install a ball valve (shutoff valve) in the line so you can shut the flow off from the tank to allow a filter change. This filter setup is mounted close to the fuel tank and feeds either electric or mechanical filters just fine. (I've used both on this car.) The smaller size filter mentioned (I have a part# for it if you want) is big enough to feed an 850 Holley on a low 10 second drag race Henry J running a 468" Olds. And works fine on my 462" Buick powered roadster.
ok, nuther question i have a generic two barrel on my sbc, and there seems to be some sort of built in filter were the line screws into the carb??? its like inside of the fitting? whats all that? is it anygood? thanx gota run got class
Sounds like you've got a Rochester. I would guess that if you didn't want to deal with all that shit, you could remove the filter from the carb itself, use a tubing cutter to cut a 4 or 5" chunk from the metal tube that comes from your pump to your carb, and attach a plain old inline filter to the tube with little lengths of rubber hose on each end of the filter. If you do that, make sure you don't have any shit in the fitting, like old teflon tape. But for that matter, if it leaks at that fitting, you may run into problems by putting teflon tape at that fitting if there is no filter to catch any little teflon pieces that may shred and come off. Just something to think about.
The little filter, or brass screen in the fuel inlet of a Rochester carb should be checked now and then, and replaced as needed. I usually leave 'em in there and run an additional universal filter between the pump and carb somewhere...one of those sorta opaque plastic jobs you can see through...helps ya know when you're pumping fuel!
on my comet i run a deisel fuel filter, they are really good fuel filters, i have a rusty tank, thats why i run the deisel fuel filter. nate
so if i currently have it hard lined completly from carb to pump, how would i install a filter there? just cut the line open adn clamp the filter in?
well yeah, i know use the right tools. but other then making a clean cut and cleanign shards out you just clamp it inplace? ~ sorry for sounding ignorant, but i just wanted to double check in case i read it wrong is all~
yeah, alot of the inline filters come with little pieces of rubber hose and those spring clamps with them. Make sure you don't cut more of the line out than rubber hose you have. I usually get some small worm gear hose clamps, just make sure you get the right size. Nothing pisses you off more than when you get them home and find out they are just barely small enough to not work for what you are doing. You may want to leave the filter that is IN the carb right in place.
On a Rochester, there is absolutely no reason to use teflon tape. The internal fuel filter fits behind a 1 inch fitting. This fitting has a teflon sealing ring around it. The fuel line itself is a flare fitting, which doesn't use teflon tape either.
plastic fuel filters always gimme the squirms, given their meltable nature. fahr! I like the gigundo big/dumb/ugly steel Wix inlines. next time I run any lines I'm gonna follow C9's advice and put a shutoff or two in there.
[ QUOTE ] so if i currently have it hard lined completly from carb to pump, how would i install a filter there? just cut the line open adn clamp the filter in? [/ QUOTE ] on the ends of the steel lines i like to put a little bubble on them to help prevent the hose from slipping off the ends. you can use a double flair tool for this, just start the first part of the double flair and only screw it down maybe halfway. experement on a scrap peice,until you get just a little bubble
36-3 window, another way to prevent it from coming loose is to rough up the metal lines with some rough grit sandpaper. It gives the rubber something to bite down into when you clamp down. They will need to be sliced of when you want to take it off, though. I've never had one come off. Most mechanical fuel pumps don't run any higher than 7 PSI do they?
no,i've never had one come off either. i think it's just a little extra insurance. you're right...7 PSI is about it , but if you look on a fuel pump for a SBC , on the fuel in side where you connect the rubber hose there is a liitle bubble there and there is no pressure
The ONLY fuel filter we use at the shop is an AC/Delco cannister type. Mout it close to teh tank. Part # is GF62C, runs about $45 http://www.est1946.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRICESEARCH&Range=30%20And%20300 Look on this page from SoCal
I run a big FRAM right after the tank (before the electric pump) and then I run a little clear plastic one right before the mechanical pump. I have never had a melting problem. The most important thing to do is have your tank cleaned and sealed. About $100 at a radiator shop, and they will usually guarentee it from leaking. You would be amazed at the amount of rust and scale and dirt in a 50 year old tank. I was. If you are wondering why I have a mechanical and an electric, I run with the original mechanical on the flathead almost all the time, but I have had problems with them giving up at the worst times. So the electric is a back up that I run on a hidden switch. Also when I go to the multi-carb set up, I can just delete the mechanical. TDC
I wonder if you could run the EFI filters off Fords and Holley Projection systems? Same size as Fram for a lot less. And if you want quick disconnect NAPA now sell the Ford O ring and horshoe clip type ends.
I like the tried and true sediment bowls. Lots of positives and I think they add another old time detail that is important to me. The gasket is easily cut out of cork gasket material for a positive seal. You've got to hit it with a hammer to bust the bowl. They are very thick. I run a fram generic filter before my electric pump in the rear out of sight.
Tommy, haven't seen those for a while. Are they still available at parts houses or are they a swap meet item? They look cool on the dual quads.
[ QUOTE ] I like the tried and true sediment bowls. Lots of positives and I think they add another old time detail that is important to me. The gasket is easily cut out of cork gasket material for a positive seal. You've got to hit it with a hammer to bust the bowl. They are very thick. [/ QUOTE ] I have had this type of fuel filter on my Safari and removed it to use a standard metal inline filter.They do look nice and elements are still readily available(I think I still have a couple kicking around in my old parts bin)BUT:The problem I had with them was if you didn't have a thick enough gasket(I had to use neoprene;the cork ones leaked horribly)it would leak.Also the bowls had to be centered on the housing or when you tightened them up they would crack.I also found that if you didn't check it periodically it would start to leak.I had several different ones and different bowls and they all eventually leaked.They do look nice though.
They are flea market finds. I just use the stone filter element that comes with them. They were standard equipment on a hell of a lot of cars. Some fuel pumps have them .. I don't recall any fuel fire epidemics. A new gasket should fix any leaks. The bodys are pot metal. When the gasket got too hard to seal, some "mechanics?" would take a set of pliers and over crank the screw warping the top. The coolest one I ever found was cast bronz. It had Stromberg in raised lettering around the top with a bronz bowl. It was really cool after I polished it up. . The one on the left is a Purolator. You can see the ears to safety wire the screw off top with an O ring seal. The one on the right is aircraft, I believe. I think they used them on the early race cars. I like the odd little details.
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