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Projects Frozen in Time '57 Chev (aka workin outdoors blues)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Nailhead A-V8, Dec 31, 2017.

  1. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    095.jpg 094.jpg 093.jpg
    got rid of the gnarly old broken and flattened rear springs
     
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  2. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    @samurai mike ...it would be cool to know what year it was when you last saw this car running
     
  3. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    anyone see an issue here?
    20190626_57.jpeg
    Yep some numbnut put that outer race on assbackward o_O...then cranked on it til the washer was bowl shaped:eek: yes there is also a divot in that race and I have no good extras:(
     
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  4. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    Or here?
    20190626_570.jpeg
    Yep two short shoes on this side...two long on the other o_O :rolleyes:
     
    Ron Funkhouser likes this.
  5. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,519

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Dude, I just read through your whole thread and I have to admit. . . I chuckled a few times. Your project, and your attitude, is just like mine. You put something together then you find five more things that need fixing. EVERY SINGLE PART NEEDS WORK! Put it on backwards the first time, find someone else's screwups, etc.
    Although you have had many setbacks, you have a great attitude about it. You put your head down and move forward to face the next challenge. And raising a family on top of all this. Good on you, bro.
    Keep your chin up and keep after it.
    I have a small amount of spare goodies that I will mail to you F.O.C. what you need right now? If I have them, they're yours, Ron
     
  6. samurai mike
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 431

    samurai mike
    Member

    I think I last had it in the mid to late 80's. stopped good back then!
     
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  7. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    You just summed up the whole project!:D Thanks Ron that means a lot coming from you man...I've read your threads and have gotten so much from your perspicacity, persistence and ability to see potential where others see something too daunting...Thanks for the kind offer! it's a bunch of little things that are slowing me down right now...the kind of little items that no one wants to go dredging through their junk for because they aren't valuable:rolleyes: but they are essential to the operation of the car ...I'll be putting together another list soon of the things necessary for a test run...then eventually a mile long list of stuff I need to make it nice...r;)
     
  8. Buy a set of 61 thru 68 full size chevy car hubs and bearings. Convert to roller bearings.
     
  9. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    Wow! I got the body shell Oct.10th 2015 so potentially she's been off the road for 30-35 years! HaHa sorry Mike I should say that's not your chassis...or brake job! lol :pI had to replace the original frame it looked like the Duke boys had a go with it:D
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2019
  10. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    you need a different hub? I was told '58 used roller bearings with the same hub...
     
  11. I used 65 impala hubs on my tri fives. you use the tri five backing plates brakes and drum and grease cap. You grind off the rivets holding the tri five drums to the hub. Rivets are not needed any how.
     
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  12. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    Was it complete and running at the time of the trade? Hey does anyone on the HAMB remember trading a '29 Dodge coupe for a fire engine red '57 in the mid to late '80's?
     
  13. enigma57
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 220

    enigma57
    Member

    Takes a little work, but if you want the wider '59 - '64 (and later) 2-3/4" wide drums and shoes up front, it can be done.

    As Old wolf said, you can also use later front hubs that came with tapered roller bearings. 1961 - 1968 with drum brakes.

    I believe the self adjusting brake hardware started being used around that time, as well.

    The power brake unit and master cyl. on the Poncho powered '56 Chevy in my avatar came off my '65 GTO and was a bolt-on if I remember correctly. If you want to use a '66 and later dual reservoir master cylinder and split the brake lines to front and rear, that is also an easy upgrade on these cars.

    Good luck with your project.

    Best regards,

    Harry
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2019
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  14. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 824

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    Thanks @enigma57 those are the kind of old school mods i'm looking for! as a HAMBer although I ended up with a newer yr. engine I wanted the rest of the car to be exactly as stock or pre'65 I want the manual drums and steering and I purposely kept the PG so I passed up a disc brake conversion but I've discovered that unless you know a guy with a couple parts cars NO ONE keeps drum man. steering front end parts...first thing scrapped...all I need is one outer race to put me on the ground I don't plan on going cross country just want to test it out
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2019
  15. New races come with new bearings, use what people have suggested and you'll be okay. Toss on a drum/drum master from a '68 or so Impala and it will stop well for now. On the old '55-'57 Chevys we used to use rear drums off later GM cars and put them up front, like a '65 Impala passenger car rear drum. Half the battle is cleaning everything up and shooting some paint on it.
     
  16. enigma57
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 220

    enigma57
    Member

    Thanks, Nailhead A-V8. Bob is right, if you want to retain your 11" X 2" wide drums up front, you can usually find later year rear drums of same size with less wear. Any full size Chevy from '59 through the late '70s should work for you, as Chevrolet went from 11" X 2" front and 11" X 1-3/4" rear drums to 11" X 2-3/4" front drums and 11" X 2" rear drums in 1959.

    FWIW...... You can do the same thing when it comes to replacing worn front door latch striker plates on these cars...... Just grab some off the rear of a 4-dr (same part, less wear).

    You are right about parts cars and drum brake setups. I was able to locate all my changeover parts off the HAMB classifieds, but it took me about 6 months to locate what I needed in good enough shape to rebuild and use on my car. Front drum setup including spindles came off a '64 Impala that a guy converted to disc brakes with aftermarket dropped spindles. '59 lower control arms came off a car being parted out. I will weld the '59 - '64 lower ball joint mounting part onto my '57 control arms (upper ball joints are same as '55 - '57, so no mods needed there). Rear drum setup came off a '62 sedan being parted out (need '59 - '64 backing plates to use 2" wide drums on '57 rear).

    It will be a while before I begin rebuilding my suspension and doing the brakes, but I will check back with you to see if you are still needing any drums or front ball bearing parts. I am converting my '57 to use the wider '59 and later 11" X 2-3/4" front and 11" X 2" rear drums and shoes. Will also upgrade front wheel bearings to tapered roller bearings with '61 and later hubs and add power brakes as I did when I swapped the booster and master cylinder from my '65 GTO onto my Poncho powered '56 Chevy many moons ago......

    [​IMG]

    Only this time, I will probably go with a '67 - '70 dual reservoir master cylinder as Bob suggests and split the front and rear hydraulic lines......

    https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1970/chevrolet/biscayne/parts/mc36233a.html

    Regarding master cylinders...... Use the right one for what you are doing. Original '55 - '57 Chevy master cylinder (drum/drum brakes) has 1" piston bore size and this holds true for both manual and power drum brakes through 1970.

    Important...... If you are retaining drum brakes front and rear, make sure you spec a drum/drum master cylinder. This will have a 2PSI residual pressure valve for each discharge port......

    [​IMG]

    Check the back of your master cylinder as well. Power brake master cylinder needs only the small indent at piston, but non-power master cylinder needs a deeper hole to retain the rod that goes directly from brake pedal to M/C piston (NOTE: Some power brake master cylinders have the deeper hole and longer rod, so use a matched set if going to power booster). Bottom line though...... Without this deeper rod retention hole, the rod can fall out if there is no power booster and you will have no brakes......

    [​IMG]

    In the case of my '57...... I won't have much space on the drivers side though, due to the carbs and manifold I am working up, so may have to relocate master cylinder or do some sort of hydro-boost system instead. Will know more when I have the '66 292 inline 6 truck motor sitting in my chassis (decided not to go V-8 this time)......

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All the best to you on your project,

    Harry
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2019
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