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Front mount engine plate question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JPMACHADO, Nov 1, 2012.

  1. JPMACHADO
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 983

    JPMACHADO
    Member
    from Not Listed

    If I need to use a front mount engine plate due to space restrictions around the side mounts, does anyone forsee a problem sticking with the traditional urethane transmission mount in the rear? I WILL MOUNT THE PLATE WITH SOME PUCK STYLE PADS TO THE FRAME, NOT SOLID MOUNT!


    Thanks
    John
     
  2. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,351

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I can't imagine why you would use plates if you can still use some sort of rubber-biscuits (Blues Brothers!) or more conventional mounts instead. Gary
     
  3. Bob W
    Joined: Sep 14, 2008
    Posts: 687

    Bob W
    Member
    from Here

    People are going to tell you "no" , but, the early Corvettes used a mount that went behind the water pump bolts and then the rubber mounts were out near the exhaust manifolds. When you use the Corvette style mount you also have to add a spacer behind the balancer to keep the fan belts lined up with the pump (GM also did this). Corvette 1955 to 1962.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2012
  4. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,220

    sunbeam
    Member

    Engines mounted this way put a lot of stress on the lower bellhousing bolts unless they are of the deep pan rail design like a y block.
     


  5. Normally a front mount also has a mid mount of some sort (think GM bell housings from the '50s) all three can have a rubber biscuit no problem. A hurst mount or hurst style mount in nothing more than a motor plate with a bisquit mount on the ends.
     
  6. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,678

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just made a front motor plate and used the flathead biskit style mounts on front and the normal rear rubber trans mount. I'm in the process of building a mid support using the old Trans Dapt rubber mounts just to take a bit of pressure off the bellhousing.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,022

    outlaw256
    Member

    bingo!!! Im sure glad no one told me some of the things i did wouldnt work id still be walkin....lol
     
  8. yea I have run hurst mounts without the mid mount before with no problems, but now I am older and wiser. :D
     
  9. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,392

    Cerberus
    Member

    Sunbeam is correct. I have witnessed cracked bellhousings with the front mount system and tranny tail mount. The crack started at the lower passenger corner of the bellhousing and went up across the middle of it. The front mount system is best with the early tri-five BH which has mounts at the front of the BH to frame rails.

    I have used the Hurst plate front mount system, and sheared bolts going into the front of the block. If you use the Hurst design front mount, I strongly advise using grade 8 bolts.
     
  10. Bob W
    Joined: Sep 14, 2008
    Posts: 687

    Bob W
    Member
    from Here

    As near as I can figure, I'm wrong. My 57 has been going a long time with a front mount and a trans mount and that's the way GM built them.

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    And mine

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    Last edited: Nov 2, 2012
  11. JPMACHADO
    Joined: Feb 9, 2006
    Posts: 983

    JPMACHADO
    Member
    from Not Listed

    Thank you for all of the replies. Most of this stuff could be figured out sitting down with paper and pencil. However, it's much better to get actual experience involved so something isn't missed. Sounds like combining a mid-mount of some sort would be good insurance.

    Thanks
    John
     
  12. chopt top kid
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 959

    chopt top kid
    Member

    We ran the Willys gasser with a Hurst front mount and a single tranny mount. We did have a steel bellhousing, Lakewood, I think...
     
  13. GM used this set up for many years,
    One thing you want to check, is the two dowels located on each side of the block that extend into the bellhousing, be sure they have not been pushed back into the block, This happens a lot when the engine has been to a machine shop. The most common way they store them is in a upright position. Be sure plenty of the stright part extends into the bellhousing, these have a large taper on the end. Moroso makes a pair of extra long dowels, which are even better.
    Speedy
     
  14. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,220

    sunbeam
    Member

    My buddy has a 61 Corvette with a 400 sbc and a 400 trans at oil changes he would notice a gap at the bottom between the block and the trans so jack the back of the motor up and tighten the bolts, this went on untell the trans housing broke
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2012

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