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Projects Front engine dragster-Chassis Research 1958 -"Moon Rocket"

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by TheTumbleweeds, Jul 18, 2013.

  1. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    The tag says 0-750 15-1300 IMG_20181115_071445.jpg and this is ground point connection, to kill the spark? IMG_20181115_071611.jpg
     
  2. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,001

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Really old tag, Hold the drive gear and see if the rotor moves/twists. Not a big issue, just means that you will have to power time it with a light if it is not locked out, at least 2164 rpm. You should still have it serviced before use if you dont have the history on it to eliminate the fustration of problems at first fireup. The terminal is where the grounding switch connects to.
    In any case with that starter button, you will need a seperate switch for the mag and starting will be a 2 hand ordeal also consider that a fuel shut-off cable next to the mag switch will also be required. It is the norm to kill the motor by shutting off the fuel and running dry first before you switch the mag to ground
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2018
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  3. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Thanks for those inputs! Ill check if the rotor is solid or or not against drive unit, now I remember what advance means, on a old regular gasoline engine, you have a vacuum, to adjust timing pre-TDC .
    The start button is only for the starter, so I need two switches, One for ignition, One for fuel on/off-return .
    Yes, at least the fuel and ignition system should be checked upp, and set right for this setup, specially when Im a rookie on old school dragracing. :)
     
  4. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Okay, some maybe stupid questions, but for the mounting of motor gearbox and rearend, well, I have solid mount for banjo, and in front of engine with the Hurst mount. BUT, should there be a engineplate between engine and gearbox-solid to chassi? Its weak to just have in front and rearend..
     
  5. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    Yes it would be advised to install an engine plate between the trans and engine it will make things way easier to work on as well lol especially when you have to have the engine out or trans for that matter and trust me you will at some point


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  6. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Thanks! Yeah, I will order a plate to welded in chassi, makes sense :)
     
  7. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    I wouldn't weld it in I would bolt it in because it will make getting the trans out way easier lol


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    True words there.... Lol
    Thanks again, saves me trouble hahaha
     
  9. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Turning 35 yo today, Still no running FED, but in Good progress :)
    I did buy some wall art , to keep the spirit glow. IMG_20181122_215854.jpg
     
  10. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    The rear axle comes little too close to the lower back tube, where I sit.
    20170926_221733.jpg I want to sit further down , so I think I replace that straight tube with a angled. IMG_20181130_090111.jpg machined a piece , to beef the tubes together when I weld they together all 3 Pieces.
    IMG_20181130_163554.jpg now I think there will be more room.
     
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  11. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 19,697

    Roothawg
    Member

    I understand stalled projects. Just keep collecting parts and pictures until you have more time/money. My biggest question is this: Are there tumbleweeds in Sweden?
     
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  12. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Well there is One at least, and here I am :)
    Okay, sometimes when I sneak out to My garage at night..there is some little noice inside, and when I slowly check out the window and look inside , there is a tumbleweed family livin inside! The small tumbleweeds kids are tumble and thumble , making that mess .
     
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  13. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    IMG_20181204_064000.jpg the chute connecting needs to fit the rail. So I worked on a bracket
    IMG_20181205_165524.jpg the bracket goes round the tube, bolted with 4 bolts in tube. Then a M20 Bolt to hold the chute .
    IMG_20181205_213621.jpg I think this will work.
     
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  14. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 19,697

    Roothawg
    Member

    Looks healthy enough.
     
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  15. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    I just use a hitch pin instead of the big bolt as it is real easy to remove the chute but my brackets are also welded to my push bar


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  16. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    hitch pin, hum, do you have a picture of that? I want a smooth sollution for take it on and off, as My chute bag.
     
  17. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    I can take one but it might be a day or so before I can get there as it is in storage for now I need to go check it over anyway lol


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  18. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

     
  19. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,001

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Drilled a hole in the shank of a cut down bolt and welded a ring to the hex 100_2793.JPG
     
  20. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Nice work!!
    I might copy that modded bolt :)
     
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  21. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    IMG_1848.JPG

    IMG_1849.JPG

    Hope these pics are good enough for you to see if not let me know and I can get some more but this is the strongest point and when the chute is pulled it slows the car nice and evenly
     
  22. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,070

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Interesting shear point on the mounting bracket. Looks like some special housing.
     
  23. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    That was a good nice sollution , thanks for those inputs and inspiration.
    Can I see the hole fed?- , looks Good and just waits for next race :)
    The loss of paint on the pushbar tells me thats not a trailerqueen, and thats nice!
     
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  24. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    Thanks I sometimes tend to over engineer things a bit but sometimes it pays off lol. It does ride a trailer but not at the dragstrip it is run hard here it is at a car show just before thanksgiving oh and it's a stick shift as well

    IMG_1727.JPG
     
  25. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    Th
    That is One hell of a ride!!!!
    Do you have some more pics here at hamb? Wow, I need to finish up and run the rail on on track!
     
  26. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,001

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Strange Engr 9" Top-loader installed in a F/C chassis. The plate between the housing and Chute mount is also the lower anti rotation support that ties to frame. This insures that the frame picks up the load of the chute hit and not just the housing 100_2786.JPG
     
  27. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,890

    wrenchbender
    Member

    Thanks man I really don't have a build thread or anything and I know there are pics on the meltdown threads and H.A.M.B. Drags threads but nothing dedicated to it The car hasn't run that great this year since I put the hemi in it as I've had all kinds of problems but the last couple years with the blown sbc it ran real good low tens at about 135 mph which is all that nhra will allow with the sled style chassis but I'm telling you if it would go faster I would pedal it as fast as it would go the car is real easy to drive it runs straight as an arrow and will pull big wheelstands if I want it to oh one more thing get yours running then go to the track and drive it that's what they were meant to do
     
  28. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    I remember your fed pic when your backtires also left the ground :) when your ran sbc

    Yeah, My fed needs to smoke some rubber!
     
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  29. TheTumbleweeds
    Joined: Jul 29, 2010
    Posts: 536

    TheTumbleweeds
    Member
    from Sweden

    9be4f44124a7781f4d794688575df553--christmas-cars-christmas-humor.jpg
    Merry Christmas everyone!
     
  30. the shadow
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,104

    the shadow
    Member

    really nice thread, have been following from the beginning. lots of good advice here. these recent posts bring me back to when I restored and ran my vintage rail in the early and mid 90's with FI. I ran a scintilla vertex from the 40's (re-built by ronco) an early hilborn FI manifold with 2.0625 stack openings a pg-150-O pump with a single bypass back to the tank (I forget what return pill and springI had in there?) the metering valve set up for gas I dont remember the size,and 7A nozzles at the stacks (for gas). plumbed up a puke tank for filling the block with water/overflow and went racing.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 24, 2018

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