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Projects Front engine dragster aluminum chute tail

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KING CHASSIS, Oct 16, 2009.

  1. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    The airfoil shape I used is the Clark Y. It has a thickness of 11.7 percent and a good lift-to-drag ratio at the speeds my dragster should run. (It was used on the Waco biplanes and the Spirit of St. Louis.)
    rib.jpg
     
  2. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    The ribs have a wall thickness of .070". They are attached to formers which measure 1.5" O.D and .75" O.D. respectively. The wall thickness of these are .030".
    rib assembly.jpg

    rib assembly2.jpg
    The overall dimensions are 24" x 14.5" (or 2.4 square feet).
    My friends who fly said that this was way too overbuilt and would never get off the ground. "That's the whole point", I replied :)
     
  3. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Don Long front wing kit
     

    Attached Files:

  4. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    That explains a lot. Thanks for posting. Were these also the pattern for the side wings that got so popular in 1971? Berry%20&%20Hughes%201.jpg
     
  5. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    fixture1.jpg

    Temporary wood fixture kept the framework elevated allowing me to use Clecos on both sides while wrapping the wing skin.

    fixture2.jpg
     
  6. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Yes they were, Bore the inner spar at the "X" and towards the back where it comes together for tube supports and corresponding bolt holes on the outer spar. slide assy into frame mounts and pin.

    The shape had enough cross section that no other internal spar or frame work was needed for the front. The rear cannards were just mudflaps to kick the air over the headers and tires and really did create that much downforce, but since the stall was so high , it needed the support tubing.
    Funny story---- Don once hid lead inside a front wing to fool everyone that he could build a car that didnt need any front ballast and that the wing would suffice.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  7. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Just my opinion here and not telling you what to do because what you did is great.

    personaly to me the wing is a little wide and detracts my eye from the rest of the aluminum work. A wing is a bold statement and its overshadowing the nose and the front end detail. Second is the side plates (again to me) I think the shape should conture the shape of the foil. Everthing about you car screams 60's full body era dragster but with a latemodel wing. enjoy your toy
     
  8. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    I value your opinion and I agree with you on both counts. The wing is larger than average and the spill plates are most definitely not period correct.
    Anyone else want to weigh in?
     
  9. We Bad
    Joined: May 31, 2011
    Posts: 25

    We Bad
    Member
    from Tucker, GA

    tailpiece arts.jpg cowl arts.jpg side 1s.jpg
    Non period correct.
     

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