I installed a Scarebird disc conversion on my car hoping to get it to stop a little better. All the rear stuff is new including the wheel cylinders. All new hard and soft lines up front with all new calipers, rotors and master cylinder. My problem is the pedal is soft on the first hit and brakes poorly. If I give it a quick second stab it comes right up and stops great. I had a Ford Granada m/c on it at first but it acted worse with it. I bought an Allstar G.M. style m/c that has a 1" bore and it and that is what is on the car now. So far I'm running no residual valves. The car also has a line lock. I cant find any leaks anywhere and I tried running the rear shoes all the way tight just to see if that would help. I'm missing something here. I read somewhere that sometimes you need to remove the calipers from the brackets and stick a 2x4 in them and bleed them that way. If I tap the line lock button it has great stopping power of course. Im just throwing this out to see what it is that I'm overlooking. I did a search but really couldn't find a thread that applies. Thanks.
I do not have a proportioning valve mounted yet. I wanted to see how it acted first. So far the rears haven't locked up. Do you think that would firm up the pedal? Gimpy, I did bleed the snot out of it on the bench. Will the length of the pedal rod effect how firm the pedal is? The master cyl came with a beveled dowel that will slide in the bore to adjust the stroke I assume. I cut it at .025 longer than the Granada thinking that might help. Thanks for the suggestions.
I had a very similar problem on my 64 conversion, I borrowed my buddy's master cylinder system bleeder and it totally pushed all the air out of the system. It was day and night I also use the speed bleeders all around. it is the one that covers the whole dual master http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-250-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5E1GS I think I still installed the prop valve, Also I used the 70's Maverick disc/drum MC, also used the scarebird kit.
I haven't contacted them yet. I don't feel like it has anything to do with the the parts they sold me so I wanted to figure it out myself. It was a super easy conversion by the way. Acouple of hours at the most.
I remembered your post and your car but couldn't remember "abe lugo".. I was hoping you would chime in. I'm going to try letting the calipers hang with a 2x4 in them and bleed it that way. From what I'm reading most don't use a residual valve because it's built into the master cylinder? Thanks for the reply.
Right on...but I wasn't really suggesting something was wrong with the kit...more that there might be an additional part or procedure they could suggest that might improve on how things work together. I like the look of the Scarebird stuff myself. Wish I had of seen his kit for early B body Dodges before I got into a full spindle swap etc! LoL Pretty sure you're on the right track...
What calipers are you using? Are the bleeder valves at the very top of the caliper fluid chamber? Some swaps result in bleeders being lower than the chamber top because the install is clocked at a different place than stock for that caliper. GM calipers on Mustang II kits are known for this problem. Sometimes you have to swap calipers left to right. Sometimes you have to unbolt the caliper and hold it so the bleeder is at the highest point, but if you do that you need to wedge something in place of the disc otherwise you risk spitting the piston out.
check your rubber line from the body to the rear end, these are always over looked and prone to collapsing ,making the car impossible to bleed. My 64 falcon ,with the scarebird conversion did the same thing till I finally figured out the line over the rear end was collapsed
Wood remover, I have a good flow at the wheel cylinders when I bleed them. That is the only old rubber in the entire system though. I'll check it out. Thanks.
you will have good flow at the wheel cylinder,the pedal will force the fluid thru , but once closed the master will be slow to return. It took me a week to figure out this problem!!! The line is probely 40 to 50 years old and should be changed anyway, as I said ,often overlooked Hope it work's out for you as well
Oh by the way, the line will look fine from the outside , a 10 or 12 dollar part change it no matter how it looks from the outside.
Make sure your m/c has the check valves installed in it. If your using drums in the rear you need check valves to keep pressure on the wheel cylinders to get a firm pedal. I had to install an inline one on my 57 Ford disc brake swap as my Granada m/c didn't come with any. Made a big difference.
once again, if you have a 62-65 Fairlane all the good info is on the Fairlane Club of America forum. Im actually a member, they have digital version of all the magazines, this exact topic was covered and tested by members and was evaluated against other conversions.
Thanks guys. wood remover, It seems like I have replaced it somewhere along the line. I will look closely to make sure. I've had this car for 22 years so its had to remember. Shouldn't have let my Fairlane club membership expire abe. I may have that issue.
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