Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Fresh blast....rained on, now what?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tlmartin84, Sep 17, 2021.

  1. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 887

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Sometimes you can't catch a freaking break.

    Picked up my cab from the blaster. On the way home got it in a pop up shower...(10% chance of rain my ass)....

    So now what?

    20210917_163126_HDR.jpg 20210917_163106.jpg
     
    reagen likes this.
  2. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 15,354

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,045

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is a converter, you don't need that unless you don't take care of it real quick.
     
    anthony myrick likes this.
  4. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 2,106

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    Take it back and see if the guy will give you a quick dustover for a $100 or so...............


    Weathermen are basically useless if you actually think about what they say.

    Basically if there is no chance of any rain anywhere approaching your area, they can get that right.......usually.
    If the horizon (radar) shows a front approaching and there is 100% chance of rain they can get that right.

    Now the rest of the time they tell you there is a chance of rain and give you some phony % number.
    Usually their viewing area is 1,000 sq miles or more and sure enough someone in that viewing area will get rain, even if its hundreds of miles from you. Think about it, when they phrase it as "There is a % chance of rain, basically they just said " I don't know if its going to rain or not" They flash their fancy weather radar on the screen and use a lot of fancy terms........but basically they told you nothing!
     
    clem and williebill like this.

  5. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 2,411

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Elcohaulic likes this.
  6. Used to tell my kids when they were young , if they told lies ,they would grow up to be a weatherman
     
    clem, ekimneirbo, SEAAIRE354 and 3 others like this.
  7. dan31
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 1,086

    dan31
    Member

    was it sand blasted or Dustless blasted?, if dustless they should have enough rust inhibitor mixed in the water to hold off flash rusting for 72 hours.
     
  8. Sand it with 80 grit, wire brush what's in the seams
     
  9. RJP
    Joined: Oct 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,004

    RJP
    Member
    from PNW

    only way to be sure is to re-blast. Everything else is ass busting work.
     
  10. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 15,354

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    It appears that the OP's situation is a little like the bare panels on my Suburban that have been stripped for years, mine is/was sporadic light surface rust mostly from body oils/handling, his seems to be so light that it is more tarnished than a significant rust issue and yes heavy rust needs to be converted whereas I used Rust Mort as a light cleaner/ etching acid.
    Rust Mort, at least the formula (green, water like) that I've had for years is not left on to dry but only put on for fifteen/twenty minutes and neutralized with water.
    It is possible they have changed the formula, mandated by regulations and the like.
    This was done twenty five years ago and could stand a freshening up, steel wool dipped in Rust Mort has worked great for me but like I said it is not left to thoroughly dry as It does leave a thin white residue, by the way, don't do this over concrete without rinsing it off.

    20180818_163641.jpg
    I touched up the hood some years back due to many handlings by people that feel compelled to run their hands over bare steel.
    20160802_110027.jpg

    The three piece louvered hood on my roadster has also been treated with the same stuff.



     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
    alanp561 likes this.
  11. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 3,459

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Isn't that for normal moisture in the air but not rain?
    I'm curious about it.
     
  12. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,871

    redo32
    Member

    Here's what I have used in similar situations... mix up a 10% solution of Ospho to alcohol. Spray a wet coat, it will dry fast. If the light surface rust disappears it will have been converted to iron phosphate which is good to paint over. It may even have a slight iridescence.
     
    alanp561 and gimpyshotrods like this.
  13. anthony myrick
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 8,666

    anthony myrick
    Member

    The old school PPG metal prep products will remove that rust
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
  14. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 7,966

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My trucks PO blasted the cab and fenders but they flashed before he sprayed a primer coat over the top. I did not want to blast again as the cab is thin enough already so I stripped it with scotch brite on my buffer/sander.

    whatever the method you choose, it must come back off. Might as well get to it
     
    ClarkH and A 2 B like this.
  15. Rckt98
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,049

    Rckt98
    Member

    I think you will find being a politician pays more but has the same end result.
     
  16. spanners
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,304

    spanners
    Member

    Deoxidene (muriatic acid) is what I'd use. Dilute with water, rub it on an area at a time and wipe over with a wet rag. Blow dry and prime.
     
  17. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,472

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Ospho in a spray bottle…. I have it in the garage and it comes in handy.

    Just don’t breathe in the spray! :eek:
     
  18. dan31
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 1,086

    dan31
    Member

    They add a product called "Hold Tight" into the water that is used in the dustless blasting process. The stuff is pricey so often times there may be a "tendency" to not use the formulated ratio to accomplish 72 hours rust free. It is suppose to buy you enough time to get the panels/ body into epoxy. I like to get epoxy on the underside/ inside of the panels first, where all of the super hard sanding would be. If you have them wash it down real good with the water/ hold tight mix you can/ should prime without wiping it down ( inside of panels) . The outside of the panels/ body i hit with 80 then prime. If they screw you on the hold tight ratio you got real problems.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2021
  19. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,393

    indyjps
    Member

    Blasted panels should be DA'd with 80 grit before epoxy anyway. To either lay down the rough surface or rough up a smooth surface depending on what blasting process and grit was used.

    DA the car. Wipe down with your choice of etch solution, neutralize per instructions, wipe down with panel prep, shoot epoxy.
    Yes - I know some epoxy manufacturers do not suggest acid etch products.
     
    Squablow likes this.
  20. Personally, I would not use any type of acid. It gets into seams and is pretty tough to neutralize there. Plus you are adding even more water to rinse. Wasn't water the original issue?
    Just sand it (dry) and wire brush as Lloyd said and go.
     
    ekimneirbo and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  21. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,692

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ospho. I have been using it for about 4-decades, by the instructions.

    I have been painting over it for just as long, and have never had a problem.
     
    alanp561 and belair like this.
  22. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 887

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Gimpys,

    My primer (kirkers) recommends using their etch.

    It goes on with a rag or light spray. Says to let it fully dry and then wipe with pre cleaner.

    Is that similar to your process???
     
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,692

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am unsure what the chemical composition of the product you mentioned is.

    Do you have a link to the MSDS sheet?
     
  24. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 887

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    No but it is phosphoric acid. I was curious if you lets the ospho dry? And then rewipe it? Or do you wipe it off while still wet?

    Do you apply filler over the ospho prepped surface?
     
  25. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,692

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Apply. Leave it to dry. Ignore it until it is time to apply primer.

    When that time comes, do standard prep for primer, an immediately prime.
     
  26. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 523

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I'm on four Decades of metal prep never had a problem. Metal prep is generally 22 /35% phosphoric acid , converters on 40% +. both usually contain at small amount of alcohol And a small amount of EB solvent which is a detergent type cleaner. I tested some epoxy over converter and it did delaminate over over a converted surface. A metal prep will clean up that little bit of rust and if you nervous wipe it down with DENATURED alcohol afterward NOT water .
    After that follow the directions of whatever brand of epoxy primer you using as far as pretreatment
    Body panels in the photographs look plenty toothy for paint to adhere to.
    If the product data sheet recommends grinding with 80 to 180 Grit then do it.
    Epoxy primers are usually used to promote adhesion When we painted cars with black lacquer we never went lower than 220 because if you did you would get sand swell marks all over the place. Well times have changed I guess.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2021
  27. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 523

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    As far as body fillers go you're better off putting it over the epoxy or urethane primer than bare metal. Production body shops put body filler On bare metal. In areas that use salt on the roads the rust will form under the body filler around the three year mark. good luck
     
  28. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 15,366

    Squablow
    Member

    I agree with others who are saying blasted sheetmetal really should be sanded before primer anyway, I'd pound on this with 80 grit DA pads until I'd hit everything I could hit and then wire wheel/brush the rest flat and prime. I would only resort to some of these other methods if I absolutely could not get it clean enough for whatever reason with the sanding and wire-ing.
     
  29. Just grab a scotch bright pad and give it a quick bump where the rust is appearing. Dry it out good air works good for that, and prime it.

    Here is a thought that I am sure that most are not thinking about. Back around 1980 when the calif govt was dropping malathion to kill Mediterranean fruit flies. It was eating though paint wholesale. I helped a friend that contracted with the state to renew the paint on those cars, they had to be taken down to bare metal which we did with paint stripper then pickled the bare metal with muriatic acid. Now here is the real kicker in this process. The last thing that happened before beginning the paint job was washing the bodies with capias quantities of, wait for it, wait for it, water. yea the same damned stuff that falls from the sky.

    you all stress over the most minor crap.
     
    MCjim likes this.
  30. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 2,106

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    I have to wonder about a lot of this prep work. I would think after a car is blasted and just wiped down it should be ready to paint if no bodywork is needed.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.