I have a chance to pickup a Franklin quick change. I would like your opinions on this brand of quickchange compared to others. Good, bad, parts accessability etc. I'm guessing the setup is approx. 5 years old. Thanks in advance.
Have owned and ran a few . parts interchange with winters quick change. my had 31 splines same as 9 inch ford, kool looking very strong but straight cut gears make them noisy on the street (worth it for the looks) easy to find parts talk to your old roundy round buddies
my old man has got one in his pickup, its huge! but sounds awesome with the straight cut gears in the back!
That guys. This one was in a road course car and looks like it has very little ware. I assume different gears are fairly easy to get?
New from Speedway Motors, but cheap and easy to find at swap meets (race-oriented meets, at least). Just looked and speedway has them at "Garage Sale" prices. $21.99 for standard gears and $29.99 for heavy duty. Also, there look to be several good deals on eBay.
I have one in my roadster and it has beveled gears. In an open car, it is just loud enough to let you know it is there, nothing excessive. Customer service is good and the guys there are very knowledgeable.
Cool Thanks Guys. Speedway is one of the reasons I wondered, they never put things on sale unless they are not very popular.
Mr. FRanklin Jr. still in busines : Franklinrearends? He has a home ans shop in Balm, Fla. about 15 miles southeat of Tamoa.
I've got the Franklin quick change with 3/4 ton ford ring and pinion and the bevel cut clincher gears for the changeable gear set in my 32 ford, this is the first time I have rebuilt and run any quick change but its dead quiet and easy to set up and work on I bought parts from several manufactures to repair it winters,Franklin and tiger all were good but the guys at tiger rear ends in north Carolina are the best to deal with and they ship fast and give tech advice next time i will use all tiger stuff
If you can check the history of the rearend you intend to buy. Reason is that some of the roundy-round stuff has been beat to death and you'll spend as much as a new unit getting it streetable(if that's your intended goal). Frank
When considering ANY used quickchange, an important place to check is where the lower shaft (drive shaft) boss blends back into the banjo. This is a traditional weak spot and many used housings have been broken and repaired in this area. If the rear tires get off the ground and come back down under power, it is very likely to split the case there or blow the rear cover off. Also, most brands of racing quickchange have 12 bolt holes around where the pinion seal connects. If one set of 6 holes is stripped out, then the driveshaft has probably been ripped out at some point. This is more common in the "shifter" rear ends used in sprint cars, but I have seen it happen in non-shifter units as well.
I bought a frankland yesterday fo my dirt mod and am not sure if it has the right left bell on it. Does the ring gear thrust adjust from inside the bell? My winters adjusted from the outside.
I had a frankland in my asphalt late model years ago and did notice the noise that it made. I started using Cynergyn diff oil in it and never heard another peep.
Hey, late posting, but........ some questions: Is this rearends really noisy?? Would you hold out on a 500 mile trip with the noise? Does the bevel geared be much quiter? or.... do you need some earplugs running in a long trip with the family on tour....
My car is loud but I can still here the QC wine,but I guess I'm use to It because it doesn't bother me at all. And I would never change It .
Go 750 miles to Bonneville almost every year in my Model A, love the sound, just like a screamin guitar!! Chris
Tight backlash settings, good gear lube and good gears will eliminate most of the noise. The one in my avatar is silent with helical gears. The straight cuts I have in there now (2:42 ratio) are just loud enough to hear on accel/decel.
hey fellas. stumbled upon this thread. i was wondering what diffs you are using? theres a tru track, gold track, platnum track. etc.
All the ones you mentioned work on the same principle. There are also Torsen (Gleason), lockers, wedge lock, and spools. The 'Tracs' are probably the best choice for the street. They are silent, and cost half as much as Torsen. If money is no object the Torsen is almost indestructible. The steel ones are heavy.
Big Block D.I.R.T. Modifieds, Spirtcars and late models all make 600+ H.P. and run Q.C.'s. (Based on the old 3/4 Ton Ford rear)
i found sumtin for sale in the netherlands for not too mush cash from a ovaltrack racer if it can take the power it might be a nice idea for a fun track vehicle i'm in the process of putting a jaguar aj6 24 valve inline 6 engine and the jaguar version of the 4l80e trans in a 1978 chevrolet c10 truck the plan over time with some engine work : (boring out the block , fit 95mm new liners , new pistons , do a little pocket porting to the head a wipple 1.6 liter compressor and a aftermarket ecu) to end up making around 500 hp out of the 4 liter engine the truck has a 10 bolt rearend wish at the moment is the weak link i have a 14 bolt 3/4 ton rearaxle but thats quite a bit overdue and realy heavy im allso stuck with the gear thats in it once i mounted it if i use a quick change rearend its a lot faster to change endgears at the track and for the street it would save me having to buy a gear vendor overdrive to have the best of two worlds i whont use it too mush on the street i have my small car for that but hauling a load or having a good day of fun and relaxation at the track might be a good idea should be eazier to make the axle the correct width for wide tires i was thinking about changing the floater type axle ends intoo a normal setup using the ford 9 inch bearingends and axles that will fit the diff i think the bearings and stock diskbrake/handbrake setup will be more suitable for the street i have seen the warnings about checking the banjo at the base of the drive whell talked to the guy and had some better pictures : looks like he hit sumtin with the axle its missing one tube on that side the axle is gone as well and theres a big dent in the housing on that side now there are replacementparts available for it but im not in the states and getting that stuff to europe is pretty pricey i guess i let this one go