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Hot Rods Frame construction questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bustedwrench, Aug 5, 2014.

  1. bustedwrench
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 131

    bustedwrench
    Member

    I have slowly been gathering parts for my '37 Chevy coupe for the last couple of years. I originally bought the body, and an S-10 chassis, to build my dream car. But that chassis just doesn't fit the body well, nor does it fit with my vision of what I want this car to be when finished. So, I've made up my mind to build a frame for my car. So my first question is, would it be best to construct the frame from box tubing, or do you think c-channel would be adequate? It's not a heavy body, and will not be a high horsepower car. My other question is regarding a frame jig? Once I have all the dimensions and component placement planned and drawn out, is there any down side to constructing a jig from wood, that you can see? I have access to quite a bit of lumber, so I could save a bit of money by utilizing it. My budget is tight, so I'd like to save a buck where I can, but I also don't want to build something inadequate or unsafe. Thanks in advance for your opinions and input.
     
  2. IMHO,I would look for a frame designed for your car,I'm not knowledgeable about the late 30's Chevy frames but I would suspect 36 through 39 would be close.

    I feel certain someone here will be able to shed some light on what is available.

    If indeed you are bond and determined to build a frame I would suggest you use rectangle tubing and build a frame jig.HRP
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    37-39 chevy car frames are quite similar to each other. The original frame used a "hat channel" spot welded to a steel plate underneath it. google images has plenty of pictures of stock and modified and aftermarket frames.

    Wood is not a good material to make a jig for something that will be made of steel...it's way too flexible.
     
  4. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,847

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I saw a 38 Chevrolet coupe on an S-10 chassis once. it was the Cyclone or whatever it was that was turbocharged and all wheel drive. it was a very well built car but they had to do weird things to the front fenders and grille to get it all to fit together.

    I'm thinking a 38 Chassis would be difficult to build since there is pretty much only a couple feet of straight frame rails and everything else is curved one way or another. 37 through 54 all have a very similar frame, the best way would be to replace it with a 38 frame, but I would figure it would be easier to modify a later frame than to build one from scratch using square tube.
     

  5. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    I wouldn't bother with a wood jig. The steel will move it with ease. If you meant a wooden replica to use as a template, yes, do that. Build it out of wood first to make sure you're comfortable with the dimensions and design before firing up the welder.

    Personally, I just build them on level yet loose steel horses on a concrete floor. When it's done, if it needs tweaking in the x, y or z planes, I fire up the oxy-acetylene hot-wrench and apply heat judiciously to coax the steel into position. Many will scoff at this, but it works for this low-buck builder.

    Ideally though I'd start with an original frame, and box it. Much easier than starting from scratchola.
     
  6. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    You're better off finding a frame even from a similar year. Front clip would be nice, but you'll have trouble finding a front clip narrow enough. I get where you're going, build it from scratch, but this isn't a model A. A 4 door frame could be shortened and be closer than starting from scratch. Not trying to discourage you, keek the updates coming
     
  7. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    I agree with Voodoo Twin. I have built several frames over the years just using a good pair of 4' long levels and some solid jack stands. Find a level floor and check your work often. When you weld do it in small increments and let it cool before checking the square and level. A heavy jig is great but not necessary if you take your time. Good luck.
     
  8. A 4 door frame is the same
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,040

    squirrel
    Member

    ...and if you find an original frame, it's already a box section, so no boxing needed.
     
  10. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,164

    redo32
    Member

    Hey Bustedwrench, I'm a '32 Ford guy but '37 Chevys are high on my list of favorites. At little more info on your car & how you want to build it. If the body & floor are nice & your going to go full fender, then definitely find an original frame. There are several companies that make nice bolt on crossmembers for independent front. Parallel rear springs and a trans crossmember & your good to go.
     
  11. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    As usual, you are 100% right!
     
  12. bustedwrench
    Joined: Dec 22, 2009
    Posts: 131

    bustedwrench
    Member

    Thanks to everyone for the input. redo 32, the car will not be running fenders. I have a 283 and th350 trans, with a rear end from a late '70's or early '80's camaro. The front axle I have is '38 chevy. I have a cabinet full of the smaller parts and materials to start putting this thing together. I'm just lacking a frame that suits me to get started. I've toyed with the idea of building it on the S-10 frame, but I really have a picture in my head of what I want the car to be when it's done, and that picture doesn't have an S-10 frame under it.
     
  13. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,711

    55willys
    Member

    Please don't ruin a good car with an S10 frame they just don't fit well and by the time you get it low enough it will be channeled about 10". They are also too narrow on the track width and hard to fit an engine in. I would try to find an original frame and start with that. Jim Ford
     
  14. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,164

    redo32
    Member

    I had a hunch you were going fenderless. If your floor is good it would be easiest to find a stock frame. If you have to build a new floor, what the heck you have a blank slate and have to build the mounts any way. With some square tube, a welder and some time you can get as crazy as you want.
     
  15. jdownunder
    Joined: Aug 21, 2007
    Posts: 334

    jdownunder
    Member

    ive just chopped the roof and done a heap of other work on a 39 4door for a friend his is fenderless and he is not running the stock frame.
    in saying all that i totally disagree with his choice of chassis.and am trying to change his mind.
    i have looked at the stock one in detail and it is a fine looking piece of gear beautiful curves and dips and very strong.
    if i were you i would find a stock one
    j
     
  16. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 581

    inthweedz
    Member

    The frames do differ around that year. My buddy swapped his 38, 4 door sedan onto another frame (think it was a 39, not sure) but from memory the rear rails on one was straight from the top of the curve over the diff to the rear spring mount, whereas the other had a sweeping curve.. Might be worth checking out..
     
  17. mr.chevrolet
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 8,875

    mr.chevrolet
    Member

    I've got a friend with a 37 frame for sale. 20 mi. s. of Pittsburgh pa.
     
  18. To make the S10 work at all you have to cut a big chunk out and eliminate the part by the cowl where it widens out. I've seen guys replace that and weld in a section of box tube, but for the work you could almost build your own frame. Plus you'd still have the ugly S10 front suspension to deal with.

    And I'm sure they make aftermarket frames for these now, if you want to go that way.

    The Camaro rear is probably a tad too wide for the car.

    37-39 Chevy should all work, all car body styles. Should not be that hard to find. Frame design itself is the same through '54 but the wheelbase grows - on a fenderless, hoodless car it may not make a difference.
     

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