Please bear with me as I try to explain my situation. I have a SBC that cylinder 8, er more specifically my piston ring and or rings are bad and is allowing oil to foul that spark plug. Leak down and compression tests confirm this by mechanic friend. The engine is old 40 years or so and I think suffered an overheat which I gather can cause a piston ring failure among other causes. I can neither afford a Crate engine or the repair costs for an engine rebuild any time soon. It will take me a bit to save and sell stuff to purchase anew crate engine. Further, my own technical ability prevents me from fixing this myself. Sob story over and now; To the point: How long can I continue to drive this engine, it is not a daily driver, while keeping an eye on the plug for misses and other goodies associated with a fouling plug? Assuming I change it and or clean as needed? A mechanic friend said I can drive it as long as I keep my eye on the plug and change/clean re gap as needed and check oil level. Is this true? My vehicle prevents me from really participating here but the knowledge on this board and these engines far surpasses any vehicle specific forum I posed this question on. Plug image attached
As long as everything else stays the same, you could change that plug out when it fouls and continue to drive for a long time.
That plug is real bad though, and likely misfiring at best and hardly firing at all at worst. How long does it take for a new plug to look like that? Have you tried some of that Marvelous Mysterious Oil in the gas and crankcase oil? Replace one quart of oil with one quart of MMO in the crankcase and add 4 fl oz per 10 gallons of gas. It's worth a try, it won't repair actual mechanical damage, but if it were a matter of carbon and stuck rings or sludgy lifters/valves it might surprise you. It can't hurt anything.
had an old ford 8n tractor that I mowed my field with every year, all four plugs would foul. I smoked so bad my neighbors made fun of it. I also collected all of their used oil to recycle through it I ran the old time spark plug spacers or whatever they are called hardly ever fouled a plug. Ran it like that for four years till I could rebuild it.
I used a set of these in a smoking stinking terribly worn Ford 352 for years. Didn't repair anything, but they stopped the plug fouling. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Hel...=item23aa1d9a3b:g:JT4AAOSwB-1Y5RAC:rk:16:pf:0
Anti foulers could be you friend on this one. It helps shield the oil from the plug extending plug life a bit.
Thicker oil and run it for now. You'll be surprised how long she'll go by babying along with frequent oil and filter changes it will take you. Oh, and a new plug now and then.
To be honest, I can only assume a few months of casual driving. I got it in this condition, unfortunately. The last work order the previous owner had was from February the plugs were replaced. I took ownership a month ago beginning of October and this is the plug I pulled and its condition.
I was looking into those from a post I believe on this forum having brought those up. For $8 or $9 its worth a try for the meantime.
A friend said if troubles arise while driving, I can put it in neutral and pump the gas to hopefully knock some of the crud off. Is this true? Seriously, thanks for all the answers and suggestions.
I wouldn't rev it, it's tired. Just carry extra "new" plugs with you along with which every combo of tools needed to change plug.
not on my truck. You can rev it to the moon, and they won't self clean, I have one or two that fouled a lot...even with putting new ones in. The idle gets awful as they fowl out. (A/T in "drive" at a stop light) I run one or two extenders on my truck, and it works fine for now. Way back I had a SBC 400 in a 63 suburban that always fowled #8, it was a NOS short block that I bought new from GM, but the fouling started much later on in time. On that one, I found that there was an intake gasket leak at the top of the #8 runner, so I cleaned it all up dry with carb cleaner & air a few times, and just sealed that area with RTV and it was fine. It idled a bit off even with a new plug so that is why I started checking further and found that vacuum leak. I'm not saying yours is the same.. . .
Even though you have had it diagnosed you may want to check the oil drain back hole in the back of the head. Back in the 60's cleaning them out was a maintenance item on my brother's 100+K '60 Impala convertible.
Seriously, thanks for all the input. I was really irritated with myself for not noticing the issue right away. I should know better. I can rest a little easier knowing I have some time to get the funds together for a crate. And that I can still cruise this thing around in the meantime. The GM Performance 350/290 crate from Pace looks good and it’s affordable. https://paceperformance.com/i-51462...hp-turnkey-crate-engine-with-chrome-trim.html
If worse comes to worst, change cylinder plugs. I did that when I was broke. Take 8 out, take 6, out switch them and one will pretty much burn off while the victim fouls. Don't use the same one twice in a row.
$4143.64 I could never justify that $$ in retirement ... lol... When my son checked into a new genuine GM crate motor from either Speedway? or Summit? It was $1499.00 shipped! Maybe 3 years ago, though. .
I might get some shit for saying this but why not do the hillbilly rebuild and just re-ring it and hone any ridge off the cylinders? If you've never done any engine work but are mechanically inclined you can do this. You don't have to come to this hobby with a complete skill set. Most of the things I've learned over the years were from just diving in. Get the hone free rental from the auto parts store. Auto zone which I consider the worst parts store near me has them. Full disclosure I've been so poor when I was a kid I ran an engine with a bad head gasket with zero coolant in it on my 3 mile commute to work for a month cause I couldn't afford to fix it and someone stole my bike. Seriously. You do what you gotta do.
If you want a good deal on a crate engine, look for p/n 10067353, it’s a stock 350 crate engine from GM. Look it up on the bay of E and you might find free shipping. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You wont find a more complete crate for the money. I’ve been researching for 3 weeks straight. Pace offers this for the best price. Plus it’s new not a re-done block and has a warranty.
Not much. Its mainly a weekend round the block a few times cruiser. and if I get up early enough take my kids to school in. Maybe 400-500 miles a year. I’d like more but, like said and I know, the engine is just getting old. Who knows its treatment the last 40 years? I plan on keeping the vehicle so investing in a new engine is my main goal, unless the right money comes my way then...♂️
I could go that route but I figure changing spark plugs until the funds come for an engine is as hillbilly as Im likely to be, for now at least.
I just did...that is the old GM number, but it will still work on ebay. Slightly under $1800 with free shipping from Radley Chevrolet GM dealership in VA. The call it a 195 HP, but it is 4 bolt and has no intake, Etc, so 195hp is meaningless when you add your old stuff like 4 barrel, etc. They have several listings of it and many 100s have been sold with good reviews on the engine and shipping fast. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-...m43f8d0478b:g:9xUAAOSwXqZbLRmj:rk:5:pf:0#rwid That is a huge price difference from $4143....... Just about any skill set can clean and add the old stuff from the old engine. .
Put a 'hotter' plug in that hole. The hotter plug will have higher cylinder temps and will help keep itself clean, cast ion head? try a NGK UR-4 plug, they're common enough to find.
Yep, this will help too. I was going to recommend this but before I post I like to read all previous posts to make sure I'm not parroting someone else's information. I'm surprised it took 28 posts for someone to recommend this. Good job oj!!
I’ve looked all around short, long blocks various stages of “complete” crate. Then onto HP and torque etc. Core charge, rebuilt,new, shipping etc. Its mind numbing researching crate engines with a tight as can be budget. I want the warranty and I want it new. I could get a basic long block and just transfer my old stuff over. Then Id have get an engine hoist, pay a machinist to get my old stuff fresh-ish again. Then the time to do it. If the right opportunity came along and I could do that, I will. I’m browsing craigslist, offer up etc. Goodguys is here this weekend as well. But Ive leanrned from this forum no less, that if I cant hear it run, no matter the completeness or “last rebuild” claimed by the owner of the engine, pay no more than what a core goes for. I’m pretty set on that Pace crate. But if anybody has time and is in the East Valley of AZ and can help a cheaper route be found, Im all ears. This forum really is the best around and I appreciate all the posts on this thread.
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