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Hot Rods Ford solid axle front anti sway bar

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ModelEh1931, Dec 14, 2018.

  1. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member

    Does anyone have any installed pictures of the bolt-in front anti sway bar for 1928-1934 Fords with solid axles with 4-bar....?

    Pete & Jakes part number # 8065 and Chassis Engineering Part # SB-2834F....

    Jason at Pete & Jakes bought the design from Chassis Engineering....Heidts bought out Chassis Engineering.

    8065-28-34-Front-Sway-Bar.png
     
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,784

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    What specifically are you wanting photos of?
     
  3. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 3,160

    Fordors
    Member

    I don’t believe those years are correct, where did you see that listing?
    That would look very “busy” on any ‘28-‘34 Ford even if it was fendered.
     
  4. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 4,667

    Andy
    Member

    Our cars usually understeer due to weight in front. A rear sway bar is usually better.
    You can check roll stiffness by jacking the front up and putting a jack stand under the axle in the middle. Sit in a doorway and measuer the drop.
    Do the same with the rear.
    You now know the relative stiffness and which end needs help.
    I have made a bunch of roll bars as everytime I change tires, the handing changes. I like it just bearly tight and adjust the dia. of the bar to get there.
     

  5. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 2,333

    fastcar1953
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  6. ModelEh1931
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 90

    ModelEh1931
    Member

    I talked to Jason at Pete & Jakes.....he has one installed on his personal car....said it made a difference...

    I’m looking for pictures of it installed on a fenderless Model A......just curious to see how the whole kit comes together....

    I have seen the bar from Scandinavian Street Rods...looks like a niece piece. I’m assuming the Pete & Jakes kit would install very similar....

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,307

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    The Scandinavian car has hair pins so I wouldn't think it would need a sway bar. The hairpins turn the axle into an anti-roll bar.

    Gary
     
  8. I have had a Chassis Engineering front sway bar on my full fendered '32 pickup for over 10 years and it has made a huge difference. It has four bar in front and coil-overs in back without any rear sway bar. It handles like a go kart with just the front sway bar. Here in Arizona we have a roundabout about every block and I love taking it through them way faster than the 25 MPH speed limit with no push or lean. My old roadster had no sway bar with Pete & Jakes hairpins/ I-Beam axle and coil overs in back and it leaned and plowed like the Queen Mary compared to my pickup. My 5W coupe with the built SBC 355/four speed is down right scary without one just because of the torque twisting the chassis. Its going to get sway bars front and rear. On my pickup, it is painted the same color as the body/chassis and you don't even notice it under there, it kind of disappears as you can see in the pics (sorry for the dirt - it does get driven!) If you have a highboy, all you'll notice is the ends of the sway bar and the links outside the frame but it will be worth the difference in handling.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Ned Ludd
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 4,128

    Ned Ludd
    Member

    Hairpins are what? four, five times the length of the arms on a typical anti-roll bar?

    The stiffness of a torsion bar, of which an anti-roll bar is an example, varies with:
    • The length of the bar;
    • The square of the arm length; and
    • The fourth power of the bar diameter.
    To be equivalent to a typical anti-roll bar, the axle would have to have the same torsional stiffness as a solid round bar some 3½" in diameter! Now, I wouldn't even know where to begin to determine the torsional stiffness of an early Ford I-beam front axle, but we do know that its cross-sectional shape makes it less stiff than a solid round bar of the same cross-sectional area, because that is what allows split wishbones and hairpins to work with these axles at all.

    I'd expect the cross-sectional area of an early Ford axle to be a shade under 2½ square inches, the same area as a round bar of about 1¾" diameter. That means that it is at best 1/16 – 6.25%! – as effective as a typical conventional anti-roll bar.

    The other way around, split bones and hairpins do indeed turn the axle into an anti-roll bar – but one equivalent to a conventional anti-roll bar not much more than ¼" in diameter.
     
  10. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 10,847

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    I plan to use one. I have never understood how a
    I plan to use one like those mentioned above., if I have space to mount it (my chassis is due near term and I'll know better when the engine is mounted). But I have never understood how the front axle works as a sway bar on a buggy spring car when the chassis is still free to roll around the front spring perch. Even if you count the axle and pins / bones as the long ends of a sway bar, the arms are so long there can't be much leverage available, eh?, and there is still only that one pivot point in the bar, the spring perch. How can just that one point provide the necessary leverage to keep the entire frame, engine, body from leaning over the front axle? Every other car with an anti-roll bar I've seen has two, widely spaced mounts for the bar on the chassis that holds the bar in place and provides the strength / leverage needed to control roll of the chassis / body. Gary
     
  11. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,042

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The Scandinavian item was out of stock (everywhere) about 4 years ago with no plans or intentions to remanufacture due to the quantity required to get the pricing down to sensible levels, and thus the years and years to achieve payback from that quantity. Eric relocated and downsized his operation into very nice, substantial home shop but he works on his LSR stuff and I'm not sure how much other stuff he does. It's been a while though so things might have changed, but I doubt it somehow. I got one of his ARB's from Finland of all places, where it was languishing, unused, in a private stash.

    Chris
     

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