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Ford Shoebox Fatman Mustang II Stub Clip Install Tips??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by suicidal-element, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    I am installing this front stub kit on Friday. Any tips from some experienced HAMBers out there?? I already know to measure, measure again, then measure some more. It looks pretty straight forward, but just checking. Thanks!!!
     
  2. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,955

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    I am of no help here.


    But let us know how it goes, I'm leaning more towards an S10 sub on mine but I haven't made any cuts yet.
     
  3. Chaz
    Joined: Feb 24, 2004
    Posts: 5,016

    Chaz
    Member Emeritus

    We put a fatman stub in my 53 Ford wagon.(not exactly a shoebox, I know) Once the front sheetmetal was off, Dana and I completed the job in four hours flat. Use a level and a stringline and follow the directions to a tee.
     
  4. Nicholson
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 169

    Nicholson

    I'd like to hear some input too. Getting ready to install one on a '49 in the near future also....
     

  5. SKRTCHSR
    Joined: Feb 1, 2007
    Posts: 483

    SKRTCHSR
    Member
    from Cincinnati

  6. SKRTCHSR
    Joined: Feb 1, 2007
    Posts: 483

    SKRTCHSR
    Member
    from Cincinnati

    Sorry not on the same page, computer crashed!
    [​IMG]
     
  7. chickncoupe
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 38

    chickncoupe
    Member
    from michigan

    The best way I've found is to plum ctr line of front wheels and bumper holes and core suport holes to floor. Use a paint marker to put refrence points on floor . This is a blue print for what you had .Ive done about 6 of them at work and this system work well for me. the most important thing is the ctr line off front x member . Make sure it plums to old ref points if the other points are off they can be changed easyer than the wheel base. Good luck
     
  8. fms427
    Joined: Nov 17, 2006
    Posts: 864

    fms427
    Member

    Measure,measure,measure,measure, then measure some more ! If you do that, their instructions work very well. Plumb bob tips are essential ! And believe it when they say to use anti-seize on the stainless fasteners or they won't come apart........ Play around with the placement of the shock if you use airbags - hard to find a spot that doesn't restrict turns a lot. For normal sized tires , don't use a lot of wheel back spacing - I found 2.5 inches about right - otherwise inside of tire rubbs on their sway bar - if you use one - and you should - no matter what Fatman says.....
     
  9. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Thanks for all the tips so far. I will try to document the install as best I can for other HAMBers. I am stoked to get to cutting!!!!! And I am installing the Stage IV kit for a bagged setup.
     
  10. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Well, I did the install and everything turned out great!!!! All mounts and holes all line up. Only thing is, I am still not laying frame!!!! SHIT!!!!! So, I am going to cut the damn thing off and Z it up 2"-3" and weld it back on. Not that big of a deal, but maybe I should have mocked it up and checked before I welded the whole damn thing!!! Haha. So, here is my advice. Mock it up and lay the car out to make sure it is where you want it to be. That was the step that I missed. Other than that, the frame stub install is pretty cake. Just take your time.
     
  11. I thought I was at the Hamb, must I must have accidentally lurched into some street rodder forum......
     
  12. Dennis, the fabricator at Roger's Rod and Custom here has done three Fatman Clips in the past year or so. A 50 Merc most recently.

    The most important thing is to tack the clip in place and re-set the front sheet metal. A very small variance in the position of the clip can have a major impact on alignment and gaps. You want to be sure that everything is dead on before you weld it all up.

    As an example, on a 46 Hudson there was a gap of almost 1" between the lip of the firewall and the back edge of the hood. The tacks on the top of the clip were cut and a floor jack was used to lift the clip. With less than 1/4" of upward movement the gap was perfect. And the clip was then final welded.

    Pictures show the Merc, Hudson and a 46 Buick done at another shop in town.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    WTF is that supposed to mean??:confused:
     
  14. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,955

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    That you are a streetrodder for trying to get your car low the right way, and getting some bonuses along the way. Balljoints instead of kingpins, discs instead of drums, not to mention parts availability. But I'd bet being a rockabilly bassman he knew all that and said it anyway. His 55 Plymouth is probably on the ground the "traditional" way.
     
  15. frankenford
    Joined: Jul 28, 2006
    Posts: 54

    frankenford
    Member

    I did it on my 51 shoebox it's easy, well easy as far as working on cars go.
     
  16. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Ya, I'm not to big in "laying frame" personally, based on my opinions on looks and safety, BUT, as long as the car looks traditional when viewed from the outside, the better handling, stopping, and all around safer, the better. I'm damn sure if those guys in the 50's could make their lowered cars drive better, they would have. And best of all, with a custom, no one ever has to see it (unless they look under the car), so these suspension swap are practical, without detracting from the look of a traditional custom. Lets see some p0ics of the final clip instal! I've been looking at every article on doing this, with my next project in mind.
     
  17. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,955

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Dude, to a T. Like you wrote it from my brain. I want to clip/subframe my shoebox for driveability. It will get bags all the way around and a notch in the rear. I don't like the laying of the frame either. But I want to be able to pick the car up when needed. Other than that it will stay put abour an inch or so off the ground.
     
  18. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    The other reason for laying it on the frame and the Z is to give more clearance for my A arms and the rack and pinion. As it sits fully laid out right now, the frame is sitting on the lower A arm and the steering arms. When I Z it up, it should gove more clearence and not put so much pressure on these. Ill post some pictures up here real soon!!!!
     
  19. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    HEre is a current picture of the stance though.....
    [​IMG]
     
  20. digging those tires!!! what kind if you don't mind me asking...?


    -marty
     
  21. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Firestone bias Ply's 6.70's on 15" Chome Steelies from Wheel Vintiques, bullet centers and bullet lug nuts.
     
  22. ...nice! thanks...i'm digging those and the goodyear 670-15's. i gotta figure out what to order...:confused:

    ....now how about a tech on the paint job:eek: ...heehee


    -marty
     
  23. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Paint Tech:

    Sand all the bondo down and get the car all smooth:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  24. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Primer the car like you would for a regular paint job and shoot some paint adhesive right before you get ready to spray. Then just follow the directions on the can of the Hot Rod Flatz Paint.

    After the first 2 layers:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  25. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    WE ended up using all of the 3 sprayable gallons (2 kits) that I had bought. It came out to be about 6 layers laid down.

    Finished Product:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  26. ....ha! you did it...thanks! 3 gallons eh? wow, this is helping a lot. (and i've realized i just hijacked this post, sorry).

    -marty
     
  27. Kustom7777
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,183

    Kustom7777
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    i was about to ask the same thing,,,,the whitewalls seem to be nice and
    w i d e.........are they firestones?
     
  28. KY Boy
    Joined: Sep 6, 2006
    Posts: 403

    KY Boy
    Member

    Uhhhh Beavis...
     
  29. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Here are some pics of the clip. We are going to Z it on Saturday, so Ill post up pics once that is done too.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  30. suicidal-element
    Joined: Aug 4, 2006
    Posts: 217

    suicidal-element
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Just for car heigth reference. My buddy standing here is about 5' 9".

    [​IMG]
     
    gearheadwelder likes this.

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