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Ford front wheel hub questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dave29, Nov 6, 2011.

  1. I believe my front end wobble is due to bent hub/ worn wheel bearings. Getting serious driver side wheel wobble starting at 45 MPH on my ‘30 Ford roadster. Measured run out (TIR) on machined surface of front hubs using dial indicator. Results are .006” on passenger side and 0.016” on driver side. Hubs are Ford part # 51A-1106-B. What is factory TIR spec for Ford ‘37-’48 hubs?
    Does anyone sell new hubs with the Chevy 4 ¾ bolt pattern? If not, what is the procedure to drill them for the Chevy bolt circle? Re-balance wheels and shave bias tires next. Thank you.
  2. BobbyD
    Joined: Jun 6, 2005
    Posts: 581

    from Belmont NC

    Those numbers won't create a problem, more than likely is tire related, or the toe is out. Primitive way of checking toe= Drive a nail in a board and with tire off the ground slide board up close and "scribe" a line on both tires. Then measure across front, then back of tires from side to side. Adjust accordingly.
    As for the bolt pattern change, any machine shop with a indexing head can redrill your hubs. Hope this helps...
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,908


    Your run-out numbers are just fine.

    If you have access to someone who can shave the bias-plies, by all means do so. At my shop, we have found that almost no modern bias-plies are truly round. We preemptively have all of them shaved. If you can get them on-car balanced after the shaving, that can help too.

    Any good machine shop can re-drill the hubs for Chevy pattern. Use fresh wheel studs.
  4. Toe is right around 1/8". Gotta be the tires. Time for a shave & re-balance.

  5. Found the main reason why the wheels had excessive run out. The old timers probably figured it out. My roadster has the 37-48' Ford brakes & drums drilled for the 4 3/4" bolt pattern! The drums have a slight concave wheel mating surface. I'm using Chevy rims with a small 4 3/4" bolt circle. No matter how I tightened the wheel lugs, the wheel would not spin true because the wheel was not flat against the surface of the drum. I placed 7/32" thick alum. wheel spacers between the drum & wheel and the run out disappeared. I'll go ahead and have the tires shaved for even better results. Wonder why the bias tire manufacturers don't sell a round tire? With the high cost we are paying for them, they ought to be round.

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