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Ford F1 Buying Advice ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LittleBritishCar, Jul 25, 2013.

  1. LittleBritishCar
    Joined: Apr 22, 2012
    Posts: 90

    LittleBritishCar
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I am in the market for a late 40s Ford F1 and would appreciate some advice. What should I look for such as problematic rust areas, suspension types, etc?

    I prefer a good driving project at a reasonable price so I can have fun driving it while collecting parts to build my dream hotrod/daily driver: slightly lowered with a modern V8 engine and auto transmission, power steering and air conditioning, etc. This is something I have dreamed about for years and have been saving and selling everything I own to get there! Any advice or leads would be appreciated. Thanks!

    Here is one I am looking at: http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/3884821211.html

    And another: http://visalia.craigslist.org/cto/3890090564.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2013
  2. I don't really have good advice since I paid a lot for a rusty piece of junk six years ago. I guess it would depend on what part of the country you're in as to what would rust, but it seems like the front fenders where the upper and lower fender meet are always rusty. Also the lower cowl area, and the rear fenders in the back at the top of the fender seem to rot out. Original running boards around here seem to roach out by the support braces.

    If you need to replace sheet metal, Northern Classic Trucks is awesome. I just put Disc brakes on my truck using a kit from ECI Hot Rod Brakes and they work great.

    In spite of what I said about my truck being a rusty hulk, it's almost done and I've loved every minute of working on it. I decided to go all steel with mine which was pricey. I guess my biggest recommendation is to start out with one that's nice to begin with. I tend to buy cars and trucks that are original or close to original so I'm not buying someone else's mistakes. Good luck!
     
  3. Nothing time and money won't fix on these trucks. Parts are readily available and not to expensive.
     
  4. SlamIam
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 404

    SlamIam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lots of these in the San Joaquin Valley, cheap a few years back, now climbing in value with all the new interest in them. Easy to work on since every part unbolts from everything else. Also great drivers with the 114-inch wheelbase. The bed, tailgate, running boards and bumpers are the only steel parts I know being repopped, so it's important to find one with a good sound cab, doors and fenders unless you want to do lots of rust repair. I found mine derelict in a field in Hanford CA and built it from the ground up similar to what you describe as your goal, only have paint left to do. Value of the modified ones depends on the quality of work done. Make sure any IFS install was a quality job. Frame will need an X-member installed to stiffen if you want to get maximum advantage out of the IFS. Check for body damage at the typical rust spots: under the windshield rubber at the bottom, at the front and rear cab corners, in the door bottoms, under front and rear fender braces, and where the running boards meet the fenders. I love my 51 and built it as a daily driver capable of handling 75 on the freeway.
     
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  5. i'm no expert , but that black one on Fresno Craigslist seams like a bargain to me..if done right you couldn't build it for that. don't care for the purple on the second one
     
  6. greaseyknight
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 224

    greaseyknight
    Member
    from Burley WA

    On both those trucks make sure the all the mods are done right, good welds etc.

    Other then that, rust, rust, and rust.

    They tend to rust where the running boards bolt to the fenders, from water getting trapped their. Check the condition of the doors, that everything works and they open and close easily. And of course the floors of the cab and bed.

    That purple truck is hideous, the purple alone would be ok, but the red is just plan horrid. And remember when buying a used vehicle you are at the combined mercy of all the idiots that worked on it before you :)
     
  7. 65PANELRAT
    Joined: Jul 27, 2007
    Posts: 834

    65PANELRAT
    Member

    Check out the original speedometer to see that it works. They are not reproduced. My brother tried to repair on my dad's 1950 F-1 with a donner spedo and was unsuccessful. I was bidding on a rebuilt one on Evilbay for my dad. The auction ended at $295.00. No. I did not win the auction.
     
  8. LittleBritishCar
    Joined: Apr 22, 2012
    Posts: 90

    LittleBritishCar
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Thanks for all the replies. I have a gallon of Hotrod Flatz ready for the purple one - just in case! :D
     
  9. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,294

    57Custom300
    Member
    from Arizona

    I'm with 36. In your home state. Take a weekend & go look at it.
     
  10. LittleBritishCar
    Joined: Apr 22, 2012
    Posts: 90

    LittleBritishCar
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    I am going to check out both trucks. The owner of the purple one sent me some photos and it is not too bad. I have not been able to reach the owner of the black truck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2013
  11. The grille/headlight, and lower center valence on the 48-50 are being repopped in steel , I also think the lower front fenders are available.
     
  12. CayoRV
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 356

    CayoRV
    Member

    A buddy of mine is working on one, a 51, and we have found several around our area that have all had the same crack in the frame rails just behind the cab under the front of the bed. I don't know if this is just a coincidence or if it was a problem area. Nothing that is hard to fix, just kinda strange.
     
  13. SlamIam
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 404

    SlamIam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have also seen this with trucks that were heavily loaded most of their lives and regularly driven over berms in fields, or on bumpy dirt roads. The simple ladder frame was riveted at the joints and designed to flex, but that didn't prevent cracking in severe use. My 51 didn't have cracks, but I boxed the frame anyway and welded all the riveted joints when I put in the X member. It is now stiff in torsion like any modern frame. With IFS and a 4-link with coil-overs it rides and handles very well.
     
  14. LittleBritishCar
    Joined: Apr 22, 2012
    Posts: 90

    LittleBritishCar
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Thanks for all the replies. Still looking for something locally.
     

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