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Hot Rods Ford f 250 runs for 5 minutes then stalls, sits for 5 minutes then runs for 5 minutes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by roosterslucky, May 27, 2014.

  1. roosterslucky
    Joined: Nov 30, 2013
    Posts: 16

    roosterslucky
    Member
    from florida

    Here we go. 1954 y block 239 v8. new cap,wires,plugs,valves adjusted, fuel filter, secondary fuel pump in and lots of new wiring. I get in starts up perfect, head on down the road runs like a top for 2-3 minutes and then coming to a stop or letting off the gas it is like someone turns off the key. I sit for 5 or 8 minutes and bang starts rite up for another 2-3 minutes to get me back in the drive way. I know tank is dirty as i have some clear inline filters that I have changed. I will be swapping out the tank if i can only get it to the mechanic. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
     

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  2. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,294

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a similar problem on a '55 Buick. There was a lot of fine rust particles in the gas tank and I could change filters all day long, but the problem never went away until I removed the tank, cleaned it and sealed it.
     
  3. Demon Seed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2009
    Posts: 106

    Demon Seed
    Member
    from BF-AZ

    Check to see if the carb has an internal filter. If it does, chances are it needs to be replaced.
     
  4. If the engine is fully warmed up when this happens I would suspect vapor lock.
     

  5. roosterslucky
    Joined: Nov 30, 2013
    Posts: 16

    roosterslucky
    Member
    from florida

    Gents thanks and ill look at everything.
     
  6. Crazyolman
    Joined: May 24, 2014
    Posts: 188

    Crazyolman

    That is typical of a clogged filter and the clear glass filters plug up fast. As suggested check for an internal filter then run a fuel line from a clean fuel container without a filter until the tank and lines are cleaned. That should get you to the mechanic anyway.
     
  7. Crusty Nut
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,834

    Crusty Nut
    Member

    also, make sure the tank is vented. Wrong cap or crap in the vent and it will run until it cant. then after a few minutes will run some more.
     
  8. fordpatina
    Joined: May 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,574

    fordpatina
    Member

    if starts after that might be a bad coil or balast resistor
     
    SanDiegoHighwayman likes this.
  9. I had a problem like that and it drove me nuts. Finally found a broken wire on the breaker plate in the distributor that would pull apart inside the insulation when the vacuum advance moved the plate.
     
  10. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 660

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

    My first thought was bad coil
     
    SanDiegoHighwayman likes this.
  11. SanDiegoHighwayman
    Joined: Jun 26, 2012
    Posts: 951

    SanDiegoHighwayman
    Member

  12. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    You might consider removing the tank yourself and taking it somewhere to get it cleaned and sloshed.
    Not sure you need a mechanic to do it.
     
  13. My thought is coil heating up causing the problem. You can figure out easy if fuel problem, just see if the carb has gas in it when it quits. Look down the carb and give throttle, does it squirt fuel from the accelerator pump?
     
  14. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I don't believe in throwing parts at it in hopes of stumbling onto the problem. I'd do some tests to determine if it is electrical or fuel related. when it dies and won't start spray some starting fluid into the carb if it starts, you know it is fuel related and can narrow your search. If it doesn't start check the electrics to see if you have spark. It will be a lot easier to fix if you know what area to look in.
     
    grumpy32 likes this.
  15. roosterslucky
    Joined: Nov 30, 2013
    Posts: 16

    roosterslucky
    Member
    from florida

    Buddy has a new tank for me. Ill pull the old one this weekend and slap the new one in. It has to be done regardless at some point. how will i be able to tell if the cap is vented or even the correct one for that truck? sorry if this is amateur hour, but first pjt and giving it hell, making lots of headway, just want to drive more than two dam minutes. I filled the tank and truck was running great all over, now that the tank is low in fuel i think i am picking up all the S*&t in the bottom. Make sense? thank you all for he suggestions. If it is going to the electrical, what about a failing igniter it looked pretty rough when i was in the cap last time?
     
  16. rulamar
    Joined: Jul 14, 2013
    Posts: 26

    rulamar
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    We had a dodge that did the same thing. Turned out to be a cracked coil. I have a complete 239 on a stand if you need any parts. Send me your address I'll mail you the coil. 6 or 12 volt?

     
  17. roosterslucky
    Joined: Nov 30, 2013
    Posts: 16

    roosterslucky
    Member
    from florida

    gents thanks! took an ole jerry can ran a line to the fuel pimp. bang of down the road.... Dam tank had more S8It in it that you could shake a stick at. got buddies tank and working on getting that in. Can i just loosen the back L mounting brackets and straps and slip the tank out? or do i need to do surgery and take the whole dam thank out before putting the new one it. Nuts are popping like jiffy pop. thanks
     
  18. Rob68
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 495

    Rob68
    Member

    This was my problem on my 58 F100. A new vented cap seems to have solved it-still in the test driving stage though.
     
  19. Rob68
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 495

    Rob68
    Member

    I dont know if this will actually work, but I took a strong speaker magnet and stuck it to the outside of my tank (I cleaned it up inside but didn't have the money to seal it) in hopes it might catch any rusty crud before it gets to the fuel pick up. Anyone else done this?
     

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