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Hot Rods Ford 9 inch help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kerwinq, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. kerwinq
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 118

    kerwinq
    Member
    from Boise, id

    The rear in my 31 seemed to be leaking but when I went to tighten the nuts, found that 2 appear to be stripped. Looking online it looks like the studs are pressed in from the inside and have splines on them. Are these just a matter of pulling the center section out and putting in new studs or is there a different way. The studs are holding a bracket for the rear end so don't want anything to come apart!!

    Thanks for any help and advise

    rear end housing.jpg
     
  2. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,992

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    You really need brass washers that fit tight to the studs to keep it from leaking around the studs and maybe its the nuts stripped,I always use the OEM nuts.
     
    Mr48chev likes this.
  3. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,198

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    That as well as a decent gasket.
     
    MMM1693 likes this.
  4. Actually they are copper washers and you can replace the studs , you will have to pull the 3rd. member out since they are installed from the inside. Frank
    Ditto on the gasket.
     

  5. It is as simple as 1-shot said and as fiftyv8 said use a gasket. The silicone some use will tend to leak no matter what, if you let it set awhile or just bolt it together. Probably because or the weight of the chunk you will invariably squish it when you don't want to.
     
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  6. kerwinq
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 118

    kerwinq
    Member
    from Boise, id

    Thanks for the replies! I am headed out to pull it out now

    I have the axles out now, putting new bearings and seals on, is there anything special I need to do to take the 3rd member out or just be cautious of the weight?
     
  7. It sounds like you have it figured out. Do be a bit cautious of the weight though. It seems that with passage of time they get heavier than a person might remember. o_O
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,308

    squirrel
    Member

    that might not be a sufficiently strong way to attach the panhard bar? I would expect it would need longer studs than stock, at the least.
     
  9. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,950

    flamedabone
    Member

    And, don't let the center section slip out of your hands and fall in the drain pan full of 90w and splash it all over your face.

    Not that I have ever done that......

    -Abone.
     
  10. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,416

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    I think your asking a lot of the 2 bolts to hold the rear centered. Not that they can't but the length of your bracket is putting excessive strain on the bolts. Most panard brackets put the pivot point closer to the center of the bolts and tighter to the 3rd member. P&J's panard bracket uses not only the third member bolts but also has a sandwich bracket that uses 2 of the pinion bolts and putting the pivot point closer or tighter to the 3rd member bolts.
     
    RICH B likes this.
  11. It looks to me like someone already replaced the bolts under the panhard bracket to allow for the extra thickness of the bracket, if they're not splined like the OEM bolts you'll need to put tack welds on them to keep them from spinning.
     
  12. kerwinq
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 118

    kerwinq
    Member
    from Boise, id

    I had to cut the nuts off to where they were attached to the bracket as they were spinning, yes. Now that I have all the nuts off is there a trick to getting the 3rd member off the top studs? I can get the bottom ones and tried rocking it a little but can't seem to get past the ones on top.

    I will have to look at updating the bracket or moving it to a better location
     
  13. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 462

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    Be ready for 70lbs.........it has to come off the studs evenly obviously, may have to pry w/ brass or
    plastic tool
     
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,308

    squirrel
    Member

    you did remove the axles, eh?

    Look at the studs that you're having problems with, see if they are catching for some reason. usually prying gently with a screwdriver, alternating top/bottom, side/side, will get it off easily.
     
    fiftyv8 likes this.
  15. Finn Jensen
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 656

    Finn Jensen
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Use a transmission jack to help?
     
  16. i agree with the panhard bracket not being deigned properly. you need to add a plate from the pinion housing bolts to the front side of the rod end. take a look at how Pete and Jakes does it

    if you need new stock type pressed in knurled studs they are Ford part # D9AZ-4347-B. they come in packs of 5
     
    mgtstumpy and Boneyard51 like this.
  17. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 7,992

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    I used to be able to lift them but now use a floor jack.
     
  18. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,912

    dirty old man
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think that next time I have to remove a chunk from a 9 inch I'm going to make some sort of bracket that fits into the hole where the swivel pad fits in my floor jack. At 81 I doubt I can handle one by hand. Last one I did 3-4 years ago just about whipped my ass:eek::confused::mad:
     
    kerwinq likes this.
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,308

    squirrel
    Member

    I made a gizmo like that...big help...

    IMG_4129.JPG IMG_4128.JPG IMG_4127.JPG
     
    j-jock and RICH B like this.
  20. The gasket is not really as big an issue as one may think. An old racer trick is to use a piece of twine wrapped from one stud to the next with a dab of silicone around each stud.

    Yes the studs can be replaced. Its already be discussed I know. I used a slide hammer to pull the new studs into place but everyone has their own way of doing it. I am sure that for the right price you can actually buy a stud tool from snap on. LOL
     
  21. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,839

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    As stated that panhard bar and bracket needs to be in double sheer capturing both sides, picking up 3 bolts rather than 2 would spread the load better.
    [​IMG] upload_2019-3-12_8-59-46.png
     
  22. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,762

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Please buy one of these, it helps my retirement:D
     

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  23. kerwinq
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 118

    kerwinq
    Member
    from Boise, id

  24. kerwinq
    Joined: May 7, 2008
    Posts: 118

    kerwinq
    Member
    from Boise, id

    I tried putting my floor jack under it but I was just tired I think and wasn't able to get the right angle on it to get the top to slide off. I don't have much room at the top which makes it more difficult for me to get anything in to pry it a little as well
     
  25. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 1,191

    X-cpe

    Have you tried sticking a putty knife or gasket scraper in the gap as far up the sides as you can get it to use as a fulcrum when rocking it?
     
  26. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 2,648

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    When installing I always remove the pinion support . Lightens up the load a bunch . You can slip the pinion , shims and support housing in after the stump is bolted in .
     

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