Ford 9 inch axle wont slide in on one side.

I can't get either axle to slide in on the left side of a stock 9 inch.

Both axles slide in on the right side.

I didnt find any burrs that might have been holding me up.

I'm lost. Any suggestions??

 

Has there been any welding done to the rear? I Had one I welded brackets on and it warped enough that the axles would not line up inside. Other than that I am not sure.

 

yes there has been some welding done!!

 

Was it done in a jig by someone who was qualified to weld on a rear axle, and know how to do it without overheating it and warping it?

 

IT was not done in a jig. I did the work, and i may have fucked it up. But i made sure and let shit cool down and skipped around.

 

Yeah, if you didn't have a real sturdy, well designed jig (not an EXPENSIVE one, just a good one. I've seen plenty built on the cheap that worked terrific), even a couple millimeters of difference can cause things not to line up. I had a bad housing once for that reason, the guy that gave it to me ('twas a piece of shit, he just didn't wanna screw with it anymore) built a cheesy jig that wasn't sturdy enough to really hold things square. It's amazing how a little bit off on the angle or welding can botch up the whole works.

 

This isnt the first axle that i've welded on before, but im starting to think this may be the problem.

 

Take the chunk/3rd member back out and make sure the axle slides into the side gear easily. If it does take the axle and slide it into the housing making sure the bearing goes into the housing all the way. If it does both easily the housing is tweaked too much....

 

The axle does engage into the 3rd member enough to where it will turn the pinion, but it wont slide in all the way.

 

I took my rear to a guy who did alot of fabrication work. He used a center section with the bearings inside and a long shaft the went all the way through the housing. He kept adding heat until he got the tube where he wanted it. When the bar went through without binding up he new it was straight again.

 

Yep, it warped.

 

does it have a posi in it? as you slide the shaft into the splines swist it back and forth....it should slide on in .it would have to be way off for the axles to not go in..

 

If it slides into the gear a little you can take a close look at the bearing as it touches the housing--That will show you how its warped. A small hydraulic jack and some 7/16 chain will straighten it up in no time using the bearing clearance as your guide. Use to do it all the time on circle track. Very common to bend a tube and a rose bud and small jack did it for us. After you straighten it out install a back brace.

 

Now, is this in the axle housing, or just with the 3rd member on the floor? If it's in the axle housing it definitely sounds warped, since it goes in a bit then binds up; those axles want to go in dead straight, if there's an angle from a warped housing it'll cause the splined end to bind up in the differential.

 

The 3rd member is installed and torqued in the housing.

 

If the third member is a traction lock the side gear which is two pieces can get out of alignment. The axle will slide in part of the way and you can turn the ring gear. Stabalize the good side and rotate the other axle until the side gear is aligned and the axle will go in fully. If this doesn't work take the third member out and align the side gear on the bench where you can better see what you are doing. Hope this helps.

 

What they said.

 

This will more then likey solve the problem...

 

..is the old oil seal still in it?......sounds dumb but I have seen someone put the new "hat" style seal in without removing the old one.....the axle won't go home if it's like that that was in a GM , I could be shalking tit.
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First thing that sprang to mind when I read the title was whether or not it was a T-Lok rear. If so, you'll have to twist the axle as you insert it to get the second set of splines to line up.

 

You could have more than one problem but what he said is your main problem..................

 

I don't want to hijack the thread but can someone show a pic of their jig. I going to Summit today to pick up a back brace and I don't want to warp my housing.
Thanks Mat

 

I have one straight, solid 2" by 6' tool steel bar.
Two slugs with 2" hole and the outside diameter of the axle bearings.
Two slugs with 2" hole the same size O/D as the main carrier bearings.
One empty junk 9" and 8" Ford 3rd. member.
I have made up the bearing slugs on the lathe for most Ford bearing sizes .........

 

Yea its a trac-loc that was just rebuilt. New clutches, bearings, and races.

I will try turning it as a slide it in.

 

Once I took a junk Ford axle (the same spline count) and bull nosed the splined end and that made it easier to get threw to the second set of clutch splines.....................................

 

I assume these axles fit before you started and you haven't changed the overall width of the housing? If nothing has changed a good fabrication shop should be able to straighten out the housing for you. What welding did you do on it? Maybe I missed that in all the comments. Easy to warp if not in a jig and if you don't have a through rod through it to keep it aligned. Bill

 

Were you welding on the housing or on the axle itself?

 

Axles fit before welding. I haven't done any width changes. I welded ladder bar brackets, spring hanger, and shock mounts to axle housing. Will be able to tell whats going on tomorrow when i get back to the shop.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

Put in the axle that will go in the whole way. Put a tire on it, lower it to the ground so it doesn't spin. Now insert the other axle, push and turn the axle ever so slow. It will line up and go in. Might have to have a buddy hit it with a dead blow as you rotate. Watch your fingers

 

I'd never do this. The axle will go in easily, read below:

I've used a bar for leverage on the axle to push in so I can turn it against the clutches. Other things to help hold everything while you turn against the clutches and spring pressure are putting the car in gear & e-brake on - you pretty much have to have the other wheel/tire assembly on and on the ground to keep it from moving...so turn that axle while pressing in on it - it will be tight if it's a new clutch pack...don't give up. It'll go in.