The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kenneth S, Dec 14, 2008.
It is the crankcase breather.
Its a oil separator for any blow-by that's in the crankcase, the pcv valve goes into it to suck any fuel vapors (blow-by). It's good to run a pcv valve so you don't have to smell the vapors from the crankcase (the pcv doesn't hurt the performance of the engine any). All of the carbon build comes from the previous owner not changing the oil, and or excessive blow-by.
Thanks, Kenneth. So replacing the cannister and routing tubing to a PCV in the valve cover should do the trick.
Either way you do it you have to have a inlet vent somewhere on the engine. On these engines it's not best to hook a pcv valve in the valve cover (although Ford did do it for a couple of years) due to the amount of oil that has to go to the head to lubricate the valve train. You still need some sort of oil separator for the pcv system on these engines.
Hello, forgive me if this info is already mentioned somewhere but, how long is the 2.3 engine from fan to bellhousing? thanks.
From the back of the block to the front of the water pump is 24 1/4". The rest depends on what fan you are using, I'd say it's roughly 27"-28" overall with a stock fan.
thank you. How much does it weigh? I'm trying to figure something out, thanks.
How much horse power could you reasonably make with a carb'd motor. I'm taking about safe, reliable, something that won't eat away at cam bearings....something with possibly bigger valves, head work, decent cam, header, holley 2bbl carb and slightly higher compression.
I'm looking for a ball park. Is 180-200 out of the question.
More around 125-150 with what you are wanting to build. With just forged pistons, early ranger roller cam, stock valves, and turbo 180-200 (about 12-15 psi of boost). If you don't want a turbo you could get 180-200 naturally aspirated (with forged pistons) with a 75 hp shot of nitrous.
Thanks Kenneth, just thinking if I should save my money and try for some Cosworth parts. I did read about a n/a Cosworth with a pinto short block, ported Cosworth head, stock cams built by a race engine company that was rated at 170hp. I'm wondering if a modified sohc pinto head is comparable to a dohc Cosworth stock head.
I think Cosworth only made a dohc head for the Pinto 2.0 eao 4 cylinder. The only aftermarket head I've ever seen for the 2.3 Lima engine is the Esslinger aluminum arca head which uses a custom intake manifold, and header http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/aluminum_arca_head-details.aspx
Its starts getting expensive to get 150+ hp without a turbo, or nitrous. Plus without a turbo, or nitrous they are not very drivable because of the rpms needed to get that kind of power. The Esslinger head is probably better than the Cosworth.
Volvo B234 head 16V DOHC There is a yahoo forum on adapting it, but not simple, really only if you are a tinkerer. https://beta.groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/2300-16V/info Esslinger head will do as much.
The Volvo head swap isn't worth the effort (unless you are doing it just to be different), the Esslinger arca head will out perform the Volvo head.
It is a 2.0 eao pinto motor, I did find a stock head modified (bigger valves and ported) by esslinger in the 80's for sale a little while ago. I'm wondering if I should focus on something like that head or the cosworth yb parts. It's in a model a with the hood on, so turbos or super chargers will be tight and NO room for inter coolers.
If you can get the Cosworth parts it would be a lot better than the 2.0 eao head.
I'm having a problem with my 87 2.0 ranger engine running too cool and not coming up to temp. I've been fighting this battle for a while last winter I just used cardboard in front of radiator as a bandaid but would really like to solve the problem. It started when I done the latter model ranger roller cam swap and at the same time I got a intake and weber carb setup off a mustang ii. I ve tried 2 different thermostats 195 and no difference, I was thinking maybe a difference in the coolant bypass in the different intake? On my 30 mile one way commute to work it barely moves the gauge if below 50 degrees temp outside and doesn't get warm enough to have a heat
I have the same problem with mine, I have to block about 2/3rds of the radiator in the winter to have enough heat. It's better than having a overheating problem anyday.
I agree with that I had read of someone making a 205 thermostat. my main problem with it is my carb has a stumble until up to normal operating temp so I may just be chasing a carb problem or air fuel mixture issue, I have to run the choke about 1/2 closed to solve the stumbling in cold weather, which makes me think lean condition but I'm kind of intimidated by the weber with all the different jets and emulsion tube combinations I don't really know where to start
fiftycoupe I have the same problem with my off topic 82 Toyota truck. It doesn't get hot. Here in Missouri it sucks that the heater doesn't get very hot in the winter. I block the radiator with card board, and run it all year with no fan at all. The only time it will get hot is in the summer time when I'm waiting in line at DQ for ice cream.
Now my 72 2000cc Pinto motor in my Roadster always ran at a normal temp, but it's started to get hot on me the last few times I've drove it. I pulled the thermostat, changed the radiator cap, tried 2 different pressure ratings, with no luck. I took a compression test and all cylinders are within 5 of each other. It will go about 5 miles or so, then get hot. That's moving down the highway, not sitting in traffic. It's got me stumped. No water in the oil either. Nothing has been changed for years, same setup as it's always been.
Is that from stone cold to hot in 5 miles?, have you used a temp thermo gun to check the engine/radiator temp.
1oldtimer, I let it warm up sitting in the drive way, then in about 5 miles, maybe a little more, it's hot. It boils over when I stop. It just started doing this. I did remember I had advanced the cam, so I put it back close to where it was and it went farther before it got hot, but it did get hot again. I haven't put the plugs back in it yet, maybe this weekend, and I'll take some more advance out of the cam and see what happens.
Hello all, I have a 1986 ranger that had 2.o originally, now has 2.3 engine, both were/are carb models. Question: Can I remove the old electronic idle air module? What wire mods are needed to do so? I do not have or want the orig. carb the truck came with, and do I still need that ugly thing on the inner fender? I plan on a Holly 350 or Weber for a squirter and run electric choke. Thanks!
(Europe) used to have available an intake that had the two & three intake runners entering the plenum at the outside. 1 and 4 entered at the inside.
Used one on a 71 pinto turbocharged and it helped quite a bit to even out fuel distribution.
In the early days the draw thru setups and high boost and hard use the charge temps get wuite high and 1 & 4 ( in my case) would run lean. A few burnt pistons were the result.
My car was a street fighter with the 2.0 stock
9:1 CR a head ported (huge exhaust ports) and the head was cut .060.
A carb off a 360 ford truck with water injection.
25 to 30lbs boost! No burnt pistons any more.
Stock trans and rear gear 3:55 it ran 12.90s @ 104 never getting out of 3rd gear.
I wish i had it still
Found an article in Street Rodder 2/1986 about the EOA 2.0 and they said about 200 hp and around 30 mpg could be had with N/A motor.
Reworked or different rods and rod studs
Carb or CarbS
Well, I have 4 of them....I have to keep looking.
Also if anyone is needing a Timing Belt Tensioner for the EAO 2.0 (since they're almost extinct and worth their weight in gold), I found some more at Carid. They're Melling BT10 (but nos Ford part inside).....and I don't know how many they have left.........I bought 3 . You can find them at Pegisus in Florida for around $200 or in England at Burton......or you can try to find a bearing that will fit.
what happen to the thread ? was good reading , good imfo
Just read all 595 post of it. I've run several of these in the past including one in a FED (not the avatar) now I'm ready to build another one LOL
Damn this thread is impressive guys! So much awesome information.
I have a buddy who is having one hell of a time locating a replacement crank for his 2.3 Ranger that snapped in half and I'm hoping one of you can help us out. It's an '03 and the casting number is 1L5G which I/we cannot locate. Is there a cross reference chart available with the dimensions somewhere I can look up? I know this isn't a forum for all modern fixes but I'm kinda stuck here so any help would really be appreciated.
Thanks all, NAES
The 03 4 cylinder is 2.5L Duratec which is a totally different engine than these.
I built the 2.3 in my old OT driver and loved that thing. Bought a turbo intake with plans to go 4 bbl, but sold the car before that happened. Thing is still up in the rafters too.......
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