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Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kenneth S, Dec 14, 2008.

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  1. Country Gent
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 562

    Country Gent
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    Thanks, as my original post mentioned, at the moment I am 600 miles away from the eng/trans. Hoping to maybe get a head start on the ID. Guess I will just wait.
     
  2. Country Gent
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 562

    Country Gent
    BANNED

    Thanks KS I guess I will wait till I get up to it. Thought I could get a head start. Will return to this thread hopefully by the end of June with photos. (from one Ken S. to another Ken S.)
     
  3. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Here is a 2.0 EAO engine.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a 2.3 "Lima" engine.
    [​IMG]

    The easiest way to tell the difference between the EAO 2.0 and the "Lima" 2.3 engine.
    Note how far back the distributor, and oil filter is on the 2.3 compaired to the EAO 2.0
     
  4. Ivan_DeSlayer
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 3

    Ivan_DeSlayer
    Member

    Guys Thank You MUCH for this thread!
     
  5. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    O.K., after posting a bunch of times on this thread I think I might need some more help. I have determined that the engine I have is a 2.0 Ranger 1bbl unit that has been from what I can see completely and nicely rebuilt. I am running the stock cast iron exhaust manifold to a straight through 3" pipe down the passenger side of my modified. I am running a C3 auto trans and a 3.78 rear gear with 31" tall rear tires. I have an Esslinger round port Holley patterned intake that matches the head. I have a choice of either a Weber 32/36 DGV, or a Holly two barrel with 1.50 throttle bores (500cfm?). Which would you guys runs on a basically stock engine and why? I'll say that the Weber will probably package a bit better, but that would be the only advantage. Help?
     
  6. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    Not to take away from the thread or deviate too much, but does anyone one have a T-9 or Type 9 trans for sale or know of one for sale. Also will a semi stock pinto 2.0 be strong enough to use 5th gear on the freeway?.
     
  7. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    For the best streetability, power, and fuel economy the Holley 350 cfm 2 bbl is the way to go. It will be a dog with a 32/36, and a 500 Holley is too much.

    3200lb truck, Holley 350 cfm 2 bbl, 5 speed od trans, 3.73 gears 28" tall tires = 27 mph on the hwy @ 65 mph. I can also haul 1500lbs of scrap metal in the bed, and it still has plenty of power left.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member


    Back in the day when I used to race a 2.0 Pinto with a 4 speed I sure could have used a 5 speed. A stock, semi stock, etc Pinto 2.0 would work well with a 5 speed.

    My old Pinto 2.0 with dual 45 DCOE Webers, 10:1 comp, ported head, with a .470" lift cam, 4 speed. and 3.55 gears. (Many cars with V8's got a really good view of my taillights).
    [​IMG]
     
  9. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    Thanks Kenneth, the T-9 is a close bolt in using the 4 spd bell but the T-5 is more difficult to put behind the 2.0. I hunted down 2 4 speeds and now I want a 5 spd.......:rolleyes:. At least the other 4spd came with another 2.0 :D.
     
  10. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    The 4 speeds that came behind the 2.0's will last a long time if you don't put sticky drag slicks on your car. I never hurt one when I was using road race slicks for auto x.
     
  11. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,014

    pitman

    Oldtimer, not to raise hopes prematurely, the 2.0 Duratec (later Al version)
    bolts right up to a Ranger M5 5 speed. 20% OD in 5th. I'm uncertain about the earlier engines though. Ford parts counter will have the right pilot bushing for it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  12. Country Gent
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 562

    Country Gent
    BANNED

    KS, just got back from TN and took some photos of eng and trans. Will post shortly. Thanks
     
  13. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    Been staying up late reading, the T5 from a '87-'93 2.3 mustang will bolt up to all but the top 2 bolts (2.3 bell) with or without some step dowels (still not 100% about this part). Use the clutch from a non-turbo '87 Mustang with a 2.3L engine, an S10 tailhousing in my case (Model A). I would guess you need to cut and weld to get the upper bolt holes to work on the bellhousing.
     
  14. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    A Cosworth head or Ak Miller turbo set-up would be a great addition :). Anyhow I found all the parts I needed at 3 junkyards.
     
  15. Lazer5000
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 724

    Lazer5000
    Member

    Also, this place, www.cididit.com, has a trans adapter to put a T5 with the small block ford bell housing on a 2.3 for $185. About the cheapest adapter I've even come across.
     
  16. carl s
    Joined: Mar 22, 2008
    Posts: 741

    carl s
    Member
    from Indio, CA

    Don't know how they work but I've had one under the bonnet for the past 6 yrs.

    Gonna memorize this thread, thanks.

    [​IMG]

    Mac Millers Garage, Indianapolis
    1996
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2013
  17. Great thread I never expected to find on the HAMB.

    I want to replace the timing belt on my 2.0 EAO motor in the car. Crank pulley bolt is so tight I will need to dismantle the front of the car to get an impact wrench on it. Anyone do it without removing the crank pulley.

    Had a friend of mine tell me last night that he did one on the side of the road many years ago so apparently it's possible.
     
  18. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member



    I've changed the timing belt on the 2.0 EAO I used to race many times without taling the crank pulley off. With the cam, and compression I was running it would damage the engine if I ran the belt run too long, and it broke (but on a stocker, or mild engine it won't hurt the engine if the belt breaks), so yes it can be done.
     
  19. Thanks. That's encouraging.

    Now off to find a new tensioner. Figure might as well change it while there. Motor has 95K on it. Looks like BAT may be the only ones with one although I did see a post somewhere mentioning a Melling BT10. Jegs lists it but with no photo and no description mentioning Pinto.
     
  20. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    Here's the short list of what I've found (might be a repost so sorry if it is).
    **Timing belt tensioner - Melling BT10
    **Cam, Aux shaft, Front Crank seal (all the same) - D1FZ-8592-A, National Seal #473560N
    **Thermostat housing - D3FZ-8592-A
    **Rear Crank Seal - D1FZ-6701-A
    **Tune up kit - TKF-24

    and for the Melling BT10:
     

    Attached Files:

  21. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,760

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    I went from this:

    11A 004.jpg

    To this:

    8 11 13 007.JPG

    And now I'm building this:

    8 18 13 009.JPG

    8 18 13 010.JPG


    I'll post more about it on the Dogfight Forum when I've got it finished, swapped over, and running.
     
  22. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    The second shot with the turbo, is that an AK Miller set-up.
     
  23. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,760

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    Yes.

    1st one was a mildly ported head, hotter cam, and twin 40 DCOE's.

    Ran nice but not fast enough

    Second is with the Ak Miller turbo setup, which is modified from stock.

    Crazy horsepower and acceleration, but way up in the powerband, no torque at all down low.

    Not suitable for the vehicle it is in.

    So now its getting the Roots Blower to hopefully cure that.


    I'll put the Ak Miller parts on a different engine that will go in a road track racecar that can handle that kind of power delivery.
     
  24. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
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    The roots blower looks CRAZY. I passed up on 2 AK Miller kits (1 was missing parts other the turbo was seized) at the early stages of learning about the 2.0's, now I'm sad and can't find another. I was wondering what manners it would have on the street in a model A, sounds like torque is a problem. I have 2 motors now so 1 will wait for the turbo set-up and the running one will get a torque cam, shave the head, long headers and the edelbrock 2x1.......I'll see how that goes.
     
  25. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,760

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    Ak Miller did the Pinto Pangra.

    I put the weight and 1/4 mile times of one of those through a 1/4 mile calculator and it came out to about 145 to 150 HP.

    That would have been a lot closer to what I was looking for.

    150 to 180HP with a lot of usable torque from idle would suit the vehicle its in.


    The one I have is not a stock Pangra.

    It gave nothing to past where I wanted the redline to be, and then all hell broke loose.
    ( last time I dared to look down at my gauges it read 15PSI , and it was only starting to get serious about picking up speed...)


    The Roots is a cool project that I really enjoy doing.

    I only had the blower itself.

    So I had to make the blower drive, the intake manifold that goes between the head and the blower, the pop off valve, and the manifold that goes between the blower and the downdraft 44mm Dellorto carb.
     
  26. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

     
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  28. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
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  30. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,676

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
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