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Ford’s 2.0/2.3/2.5 litre engine family guide

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kenneth S, Dec 14, 2008.

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  1. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Thank you, will do this in the mornin at my coffe break. I was lucky enuff to break down in the parkin lot at work...
     
  2. srt
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 32

    srt
    Member

    i did the same on a car in owned back in the early 70's. i wouldn't want to screw in a steel shaft into the aluminum trans. properly secured the OE stuff works damn good
     
  3. Rokhound
    Joined: Nov 18, 2010
    Posts: 28

    Rokhound
    Member
    from iowa

    hey can some one tell me what tranny this might be i think its a 4 speed or hec maybe a 3 speed. I believe it is a hydraulic throw bearing.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    i need to no what year and model as i need a clutch and flywheel any help would be great

    thanks guys

    wow i think the pic is big enough i will resize it if i can find a way
     
  4. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member



    That's a Toyo-Koygo 4, or 5 speed, it's the weakest of the Ford Ranger transmissions, mainly found in 1983-1988 year models. The 2.3's use all the same flywheels, and clutches. It's uses a Ford Ranger hydraulic t/o bearing setup.
     
  5. Rokhound
    Joined: Nov 18, 2010
    Posts: 28

    Rokhound
    Member
    from iowa

    Thanks for info well that kinda suck that it the weak one but I got the motor and tranny for 50 bucks so I will use it for mock up and upgrade when it craps out I guess.

    Thanks again
     
  6. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    As long as you don't race, or abuse it, it should last a while. When making your transmission crossmember make sure that you can move it forward, and back some, the mounting holes on the different transmissions vary some. Your best bet is find a T5 with the bell housing from a 1983-93 Mustang, or a 1987-88 Thunderbird turbo coupe.
     
  7. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This out of a T-Bird Super Coupe V-6
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013
  8. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

  9. we used to run the Turbo Coupe version T5 in my ranger Off Road truck with a highly modified Esslinger 2.3 in it. Right at 300 hp. The stock trans worked quite well, did manage to break a mainshaft in two after about 6,000 race miles including a Baja 1000 win and a Micky Thompson Stadium Win. Still went forward with only two gears (2nd and 4th if I remember, it was 20+ years ago). Put a new mainshaft in it and off to the races again
     
  10. P Thompson
    Joined: Feb 2, 2013
    Posts: 1

    P Thompson
    Member



    Kenneth seems you are well versed on the 2.3, need some help. I have what I think is the 2.3 in an old 1949 Triumph Roadster. So far I am told by the locals it is about a 1986. It has port injection and an ECU of which I can not find a port to plug a OBD tester into. I know this isn't much to go on but do you have any idea what I an dealing with here. Year, what it came out of etc. Thanks
     
  11. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Im still in deep waters here.
    All ignition components have been swapped with new ones and there is spark.
    Fuel gets to the cylinders, i removed the rocker cover to check for a stuck valve but they all move freely at the right time and you can hear the exhaust valves releasin pressure.
    But still, it cranks but wont fire. Or better, 1st turn of the key it sorta fires to die right after, abuut then i can keep on crankin forever it will not do it again.
    If i leave it to sit for say 10 minutes thou, the first crank will fire it for half a second, but then nothin no matter how many time i try. I tried a few times, and every time it was left to sit it would fire for a moment at the first crank, then nothin.
    This led me to believe i was floodin the cylinders. Since i had higher fuel consuption lately it made sense, so i thought that was it, but i swapped the carb and it does the exact same thing.
    Anybody has a clue?

    Also, can a craked block or craked head, or even a blown head gasket cause no external leaks? Im preparing for the worse.
     
  12. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    It is possible for the head gasket to be blown out between the cylinders. The best way is to do a leakdown test, pull the valve cover, pull the spark plugs, put the # 1 cylinder close to top dead center on the compression stroke, then you need some way to keep the engine from turning (if your car has a manual transmission put it in gear, and put the parking brake on only if your parking brake is good enough the keep the car from moving). If you can't hold it in gear, or have an automatic transmission you can put a socket on the front crank bolt with a braker bar long enough for it to rest on the frame to keep the engine from turning (the engine will want to turn backwards since the cylinder will a little before TDC on the compression stroke). It will either leak out the intake you will either hear the air leaking out of the carb, the exhaust, in the crankcase breather, or out the spark plug hole of one of the cylinder(s) next to it.
     
  13. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    So, remove spark plugs, rocker cover, put the car in gear, pull the hand brake, and try to crank it by hand?
    Why i have to remove the rocker cover? To hear the exhaust valves better?
     
  14. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    You only have to hold the engine from moving when you are testing the cylinder, that's why you either need to have a good parking brake with the trans in gear, or use a socket, and braker bar.

    You don't have to necessarily have to pull the valve cover off, just make sure that the cylinder you are testing is on the compression stroke.
     
  15. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member


    This is the plug you need to look for (it's a EEC-IV plug).
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Dual side draft Webers for Esslinger aluminum head.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. A lot better flow than the 'S' shaped manifold that TWM used to make (and that I used on our RPU)
     
  18. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane


    Oh, yeah. Soory, thats pretty much logic. I was probably tired yesterday after a days work....:eek: Makes perfect sense.

    BTW, those side draft webers are really something i want in the future (if i manage to fix this damned thing that is).
    The sound they make, possibly coupled with a good cam too, is absolutley perfect!
     
  19. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    All fixed.
    Cause of troble was the belt, that slipped 2 teeth! Most probably when the mechanic changed it togheter with the water pump and all distribution "disposables", he under tightened the tensioner, and fitted the belt a tooth short to start with, so that was the cause of the poor runnin engine. In close to ten years this never happened, so i blame his torque wrench LOL.
    Lets see how well ive done this now too :)

    If anything this experience learned me a lot in the engine compartment, which is an area where i lack terribly.
    Thanx Alex and Kenneth for the help.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
  20. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    Glad you got it figured out bonez. With the timing belt on a stocker I like to change them out every 60,000 miles, or 3 years which ever comes first. When putting a belt on never turn the engine backwards especialy when the tensioner is loose while your setting the timing (if it turns backwards the tension of turning the camshaft will make the belt tensioner loosen up, and it will jump teeth). When chainging a water pump, or a thermostat the timing belt does "NOT" need to be loosened, why some people do that I have no idea. I can't remember how may times I had to change the timing belt when someone changes a water pump, or thermostat because it usually messes up the teeth on the belt when it jumps.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2013
  21. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    I see what you mean. and totally see why. I changed the water pump cause it was old as frekk and leaky, while on the therm im clueless, as it has nothin to do.
    Only thing is that you have to remove the therm housing to reach the tensioner belt, but doesnt make sense the other way around.
    BTW, i have a severe leak at the therm housing. Its the actual head that is chipped around the water passage. Any way to fix that? I assume being cast iron i cant weld on it. Or can i get away with it seen its not a structural weld?

    I think i understand the dont turn the engine backwards thing too. I thi nk i might have pulled pushed the fan to align the crank pulley with the top one, but the cam pulley im rather sure that even if i pulled it back it was by a millimeter or so.
    It ran fine today thou, dizzy needs to be timed properly, but other than that seems ok. Managed to fix it in time for a snow storm too!!
     
  22. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

  23. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Well, the belt slipped again at idle yesterday night when i was goin home :(
    Funny cause i used the car at lunch break and it was fine.
    Checked it this morn and noticed something weird. Before crankin i could twist the belt more than 90 like if it was loose, but after crankin a couple times i could hardy twist it to 90 degrees. Something aint addin up.
    Im gonna shove the old belt and junk this one. Comes from a supposedly top ford spares shop in germany. I got mostly junk off of them but i was hoping engine parts were good. The coil they sent me aint any good either..
     
  24. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,733

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    I wonder if its your tensioner.

    I'd replace that with a good quality new one.

    And make sure its tight.

    I'd get the tensioner and belt from Burton, and since you are working in that area anyway, a new cam squirter ( cheap insurance )

    ( also check if your cam pulleys are in good condition )
     
  25. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member

    I wonder if bolt that keeps the tensioner from moving (the one in the slotted hole) is a little too long, and maybe bottoming out instead of tightening the tensioner completely. Also after awhile the tensioner spring gets weak (also are you tightening the bolt the tensioner spring wraps around good).

    One thing I noticed about the belt tensioner is that when you tighten the bolts the tensioner likes to rotate backwards a little bit loosening the belt.

    When tighten the tensioner I watch it closely to see if moves while tightening the bolts, a little trick I do is tighten the bolt that has the tensioner spring wrapped around it first, then I tighten the bolt on the slotted hole till it's just a little bit snug, then I take a bar of brass, or aluminum put one end of it on top of the tension plate right above the slotted hole, then give the bar a few taps with a hammer while checking the belt tension between the cam, and aux pulley (I tighten the belt a little bit more than the tensioner does, then tighten bolts completely. The instructions tells you not to do that, but I've done that for many years, and hadn't had any problems with loose belts that want to jump timing, and or break.
     
  26. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    There aint no clip on the tensioner, but there is a pin on the boltin plate, so i assume there should be one. There never was one as far as i can remember, even with the old tensioner.
    All bolts are the right lenght btw, kno what you mean. I torqued them with a torque wrench to far more than the recommended 21 Nm.
     
  27. Here's a couple of pictures of the 2.3 I finished about 2 days before it's debut at the GNRS 2013. It features an Esslinger D Port head, PerTronix distributor, Dual 40 DCOE Weber's and I built the header.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Special THANKS to Kenneth S not only for starting this thread and keeping the Flame alive, but also coming up with the Perfect Oil Pan for me at the last minute that chromed up real pretty like :D
     
  28. knotttty
    Joined: Sep 2, 2010
    Posts: 422

    knotttty
    Member

    wow.... that is a thing of beauty ... awesome job Don...

    Roy
     
  29. Kenneth S
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,527

    Kenneth S
    Member



    Looks awsome Don. Glad I could help.
     
  30. Hotrodon- where can we see pics of the whole car?


    If I recall correctly, Joe Morgan ("Poisonous Pinto" article in Hot Rod) said that the round-tooth pulleys can be run looser without slipping. I'm not saying that the square-tooth pulleys are bad, just pointing out an option.
     
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