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For the engine Gurus lets build a street 265SBC

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by leon renaud, May 28, 2008.

  1. leon renaud
    Joined: Nov 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,937

    leon renaud
    Member
    from N.E. Ct.

    I have a 56 265 engine with 2 bbl carb and cast iron powerglide that needs a full rebuild but is complete.What would you do to this engine if you were to build it for daily driving in a light 27 T RPU (sorry it's glass)? I'll be running a ford 8 inch from a 76 V6 mustang II.I'm guessing this should come in around 1500 lbs.Keep in mind this is a street car that I plan on driving a lot
     
  2. When a customer approaches me with this question the first thing we need is the budget. Can't base line a engine without knowing what we have to spend>>>>.
     
  3. David Totten
    Joined: Nov 21, 2005
    Posts: 248

    David Totten
    Member

    the big down side of this is yu can build a 350 for less money. If you want the early motor . bored to 283 cam heads etc will make a good runner. another down side is these engines worked best with high compression 11 1/2 to one or more. dont work as well with todays gas.
     
  4. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,973

    Dyce
    Member

    I second that!!
    When I had a machine shop and people wanted a quote, I'd ask"How much do you have we'll spend it all". You need to decide how much you want to spend.
    You going to use the cast glide? Really?
    Jeff
     

  5. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    Well, you have the engine and want to do something with it rather than replace it with something newer. GOOD! Pistons are the biggest drawback; who makes a performance piston for the "old" 265, and at what cost (probably prohibitive)? So, keep the short block stock save for a cam change (don't forget about the 265's odd ball oiling- either have to modify the rearmost cam journal or have a notch machined into the cam. Find a set of #601 305 heads (53 cc chambers) and have them gone through real well, then have them milled to get the chamber cc even smaller; you're going to need/want more than 8.5:1 compression ratio. Small carb, HEI distributor, small tube/long primary headers. Hope you don't plan on using the cast iron Powerglide; at least swap to an aluminum Powerglide and a mild stall converter. Get at least 3.73 rear end gears. Throw some early Vette valvecovers on it and have fun. And, don't be afraid to tell everyone it's a 265 and not a bellybutton 350/383 everyone seems to want/use. Now, don't forget this, the early 265's DON'T have a machined boss on the block for a starter motor; you'll need the starter adapter ring to use a late Powerglide,200R4,350TH,400TH,700R4. If you use a manual trans and use the cast iron bellhousing there won't be a problem; some trucks even used a hydraulic clutch that would be easier to fab for you nd your "T".
     
  6. leon renaud
    Joined: Nov 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,937

    leon renaud
    Member
    from N.E. Ct.

    This is the kind of info I'm looking for guys.I didn't ask for quotes but what you would do if this was your engine and you were putting it in a 1500 lb T.I have 4 305s 2 350s and a 383 here I want the 265 !as for the 305 heads I have a set rebuilt with roller tip rockers and screw in studs how much do they need to be milled or do you need part #s to figure the chamber size now ?I have several Edelbrock performer intakes one is early so it could take the filler tube just need to make the hole for it .If this is a good intake it will have the ID ground off and get painted to sort of hide the origin. I plan to check the archives for running a hidden PCV valve but will keep the road draft tube but blocked if necessary.Besides the weight is there any other reason NOT to run the glide?What ID on the headers,Wouldn't tri Ys be best for the street motor?I seem to remember one of the header builders like Doug Thorley saying that Tri Y is a better design for street performance.What cam grinds would you recommend or brand ?My thoughts right now is I want this engine to look like something someone would have in a late 50s or early 60s home built hot rod.The trannies on hand are the glide,a3 spd stick , a 3spd with over drive (4 speed stick) and a S105 speed.The manual trannies are all hydraulic Clutches.I planned the glide do to leg issues I don't know how long the clutch would be practical for me.It's issues like the cam oiling that I did this post for I notice no one suggested ARP bolt kits which is something I will use if available.I may keep the compression a bit low because I just happen to have a 50s era Paxton Supercharger that may find its way onto this Lill Mouse so come on guys lets hear what you have to say!it's either the 265 or back to my first choice of a 2.3 turbo motor and trans !
     
  7. The Wizard!
    Joined: Nov 18, 2007
    Posts: 140

    The Wizard!
    Member

    I think no matter what engine you go with you should think seriously about an overdrive trans if you will be in it alot! Just my thought. :cool:
     
  8. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

    Under todays current fuel prices, I'd go with the 2.3 and enjoy not having to feed it as much $4.30+ per gallon gas.

    If your set on a V8, I'd steer away from the 265 and do the 305 and a 2004R trans.... should produce 27+ MPG and good performance.
     
  9. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,443

    Squablow
    Member

    There's another HAMBer that goes by the name of Clssy56 (spelled just like that) who built a 265 for his '56 using 305 heads and a few other tricks. He also ditched the powerglide for a TH350 for the extra gear. I'd PM him and see how he did his.

    He sold me his old 265 and it's going to go in my '57 at some point, but I'm keeping that one all stock.
     
  10. Bass
    Joined: Jul 9, 2001
    Posts: 3,354

    Bass
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    The 'glide would be my last choice for a transmission. Personally I'd go with the S-10 5spd, and use a hydraulic clutch. You can set it up for a very light pedal since you have leg issues. It's all about getting the right combination of master cylinder bore/slave cylinder bore and pedal stroke.

    It will be a hell of a lot more fun to drive than a 'glide as well. But if you have to have an automatic, the 200r4 that Glenn suggests would be at the top of my list. Same basic size as a TH350 to keep from compromising floor space, and the benefits of overdrive.


    I have a '56 265 being machined right now that's going in a late '50s style (think 1958) Model A Roadster. It's getting lightly ported '57 Fuelie heads, a Weiand 4x2 intake with Stromberg 97s, staggered bolt Weiand block letter finned valve covers, Jahns domed pistons, very early Isky solid roller cam with rev kit and 2-gear positive gear drive, a Vertex (hei) mag, Weber aluminum flywheel. It's bored 1/8th over and will be balanced. I'm using H-beam rods and ARP main bolts for a little extra high rpm insurance.

    I'm going to build my own headers, and small primaries will probably work best with the small exhaust ports my heads have.

    One last thing. If you're going to use 305 heads....well then you might as well build a 305.
     

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