""Fools rush in to the"" Aprill 2013 Banger Meet

Sent you a PM

 

what are you looking for ????? ... steve

 

Looking for a "T" 8 leaf rear spring - 26-27

 

http://www.t-springs.com/

Pricey, but new...

 

i tried one & was not impressed . did not do what i had expected . reverse eye works well ...................

 

My goal is to lower the rear about 4" and the front about 3" I bought a 32 front axle and am going to have a local spring shop reverse the front spring eyes on my A spring.

The rear they are going to reverse the eyes of the T spring and de arch it a tad. Hoping to get what I need out of it.

Going from 31 19" wire rims to 34 17" wire rims. I like the way they look.

Then I just need to decide on that mfg 7.50 rear and 5.0/5.5 fronts.

 

Finally got a day to myself to make some headway on my banger. Been working at least 12 hour days at the motorcycle shop being spring and all.

Next is figuring out steering using A stuff, fix frame horn, t rear spring, and chassis paint. While paint dries I'll be going over the engine and do all the fun speed stuff.

Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

You running mechanical brakes & factory style shocks? If so, you're going to need the 32-34 perch pins.

 

Yes I was planning on running factory brakes and shocks. Thank you for the heads up! OK now, anyone know where I can get those?

 

Looking good. All you guy's with megaphone exhausts are making me want to go hang out with you so I can listen to the concert


LJ

 

One just came up for sale near me. PM me.

 

is this the look you want ??



750x16 ... 600x16 .. dropped front axle , reversed eye springs , some leaves taken out ............... steve

 

That's the look Steve! PERFECT!

What spring do you have in the rear? How about the front? How many inch drop in the front? Mechanical or juice brakes? What shocks?

I also want to go with the exhaust outlet in the same spot. I have a dual exhaust for the banger. I want to run cutouts, so 1 regular outlet and 1 cutout outlet on each side. I just need to find a good exhaust guy here in NJ.

NICE!

 

i have reversed eye model "A" springs on both ends . i took leaves out until i got the ride heigth i wanted . dropped axle is 4" . my exhaust is a reds header split after the 12" porter muffler . i love the lil muffler . does 101db on a noise gun (like the cops use) , but i can drive it & be quite
it is a daily driver . banger with mods . 3:54 rear gear ...... 65 mph all day ! the muffler shop here i have dealt with since i was a kid . great guy & excellent work . when i remove the trans i take the exhaust off . 5 bolts including 3 on the collector ..... i had stock (teds kit) brakes for years , but put 1942 juice on it awhile ago . i have never had stock shocks (after market hyd) ( not gas shocks) front / rear ............... thanks .. steve

 

Hey Steve, any more pics to share, front, rear?

 

Stan,

If you already have the '32 axle, just reverse the eye on your A spring and remove a couple leaves. You can either use '32-'34 perch pins (pricey) or make a bracket to extend your A perches.

'32-'36 axle - 1 3/4"
Reverse eye spring - 1"
Removing 3 leaves - 1 - 1 1/4
Total drop - 3 3/4" - 4"

 

Thank you. This is exactly what I needed. Any details on exactly which leaves to remove?

Am I wasting my time/money looking for a T rear spring? Can I get a 3-4 inch drop with reverse eyes and removing a few leaves on my A spring?

 

not as many as i thought . somewhere i have a history in pix .




i will see what i can find ................. steve

 

Stan , you can get it so low you cant drive it !

 

I need some opinions from old time Banger operators about the engine in My '28 Model A.

It has a rapping noise from the engine that comes in about 2100 RPM under a moderate load. It seems worst at 2100 to 2200 RPM and goes right away if I back off to light cruise power. Under heavy load it is less apparent and really is minimal at higher RPMs. (2900 sorta thing) Driving around off the highway you never hear it unless you wind it up going through the gears. This is just loud enough that it does concern me but is not loud enough to say.... hey I'm broken.

I am using 10W30 oil in it at present. Other wise the engine runs like a top.

Any and all opinions and experience much appreciated.

Regards,
-Joemac

 

It is probably a rod knock. Next time you drive it, get it to make the noise, then move the timing lever up and down. If the noise gets worse when you advance the timing and goes away or lessens when you retard the timing, then you have loose rod bearings. Listen for the same noise when you start it after it has sat for a couple days. If it knocks at cold start up, the it is probably a loose main bearing.



-

 

you can pull plug wire until you find it . maybe pull the pan . center main .

 

Did you get in touch with Mike on the T spring? You should be able to remove a couple springs from the T pack and get 3-3 1/2" of drop over a stock A spring.

Can't tell you for sure which springs to remove...try 1 & 3 or 2 &4 for starters, it'll take some trial & error - see what combo gives the best ride & height you desire.

Here's what Leroy over on FB did to lower his A; http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12576

 

Yea it sounds like bearings to me.... But this is my first model A engine that runs. I had one when I was a kid but no car. And I didn't notice the noise I until messed with the timing. It has a Mallory distributor and had been set by the I hope its right method by the PO. I put some timing marks on the pulley and it should be at about 20 degrees at that speed.

Assuming this engine is a good as it appears to be and a lot of time but not a lot of miles since rebuilt am I looking at shims I can pull in this old bird?? I have only owned it since last fall. Seems like shimming the bearings would be OK but I want to drive it this summer not be in a major rebuild.

If the bottom end is on the way out I will have to rethink this whole thing as far as what to power it with.

 

There is a lot of information on how to adjust the bearing clearance over on the Ford Barn .

.

 

You may look up "the tin foil method" of adjusting bearings on the Fordbarn

 

Don't try to use shims on thin insert bearings

 

Bluto is right.

We are assuming you have Babbit bearings. If you have insert bearings, there is no adjustment.

.

 

Yes, thanks...I've got that OK. I am a retired GM mechanic and do have the basic skills here... Never did model A's so asking the folks that have the proper experience. I did have some experience with babbit back at the beginning of my apprenticeship but it was on Chevy's and even that is reduced to only a fond memory.

Back in the day I did shim some shell bearings. I used what is called feathered shim stock behind the main bearing shells to save a block that had spun the mains. It was a SBC 350 and by god it worked just fine... the engine lasted until I lost track of it and never gave a hint of a problem.

I am led to believe that the bottom end has never been looked at since rebabbit many years ago so it looks like time to pull the pan and relearn some skills. I went over to the ford barn and found some good information on the project.

Thanks,
-Joemac

 

when you get the pan down , be sure to check the center main as it is a problem .
the shim packs are multi layered , and can be spilt off by using a bic lighter to barley heat them & they will peel . you also can get away with only removing one side shim if needed to correct it . ........