A local shop just re-surfaced one of my flywheels. They claim its engine-side also had to be re-surfaced --- an extra charge of course. Does this engine-side shave make any sense? Thanks Jack E/NJ
That's a new one on me. Unless they are speaking of squaring the crank flange mounting pad, to the side they just surfaced, which would say to me that they did not have the flywheel level when it was surfaced. I have heard of a shim between the flywheel and the crank after surfacing, to restore the original height to the whole setup, where the pressure plate would be in it's original relationship to the clutch linkage.
I did a sbc that clutch chattered for years for the owner's truck, despite a local trans shop redoing it twice, and also rebuilding the Muncie. They never checked runout on the flywheel after it was bolted back up. It was out 16 thou. I got it to 2, by dressing the face of the crank. It sounds like they are a competent shop, that found a problem you did not know about.
Thanks Chuck. I didn't think of them shaving the crank mounting flange. I'll have to ask them. But if they didn't level the clutch-side surface to begin with, shaving the engine-side flange face to compensate doesn't seem like the best remedy either? Jack E/NJ
Thanks for the reply F&J. You're right about the chatter --- been chattering for years. I figured it was just a clutch or clutch-face problem. You may be onto something. Thanks again. Jack E/NJ
If you mount the flywheel on a lathe using the mounting flange then any runout that it might have would be automatically corrected when the clutch surface was machined.The two surfaces would have to be parallel after machining was complete .
I hear what you say about "years of chatter". The guy who owns that truck has had it since 1970. It is his baby, and the last 10 years, he was very unhappy with it. When I gave it back to him to try, he drove back here a few days later...got out of the truck and hugged me. I have never had that happen before.
agreed, also if they are claiming they surfaced the crank flange side as them if the ring gear is true to that surface. ive turned alot of flywheels and only touched those surfaces when repairing pilot bores and then only trued them to the existing surface
I've heard of it being done, never noticed on any I had done, but who looks at the crank side of it anyway... the PP side with the crosshatch has a hypnotizing quality to it. Bob
Blanchard grinding is a good way to resurface a flywheel. When that is done it is often necessary to do both sides to end up with the mounting face parallel to the friction side.
Haven't talked to the shop yet but I had another thought when I woke up this morning. Is it possible that the flywheel might've been slightly warped and affected its balance? Could this explain why the engine-side had to be re-surfaced. Does this possibility make any sense? Thanks for all the replies Jack E/NJ
Interesting. Gonna take my flywheel and have it resurfaced both sides as I am having the same trouble!!
Don't pull it off yet... I just posted on your other chatter thread; you must run a dial indicator on the flywheel while slowly turning it. If you just send the flywheel out to do both sides, that does not compensate for a bent crank flange (if it has one). It can be fixed in the truck with some tedious hand dressing, if that is what is really going on here. Not saying it is the problem for sure, but pulling the flywheel before indicating, is running blind at this point. Let's say you do indicate it, and it's out 10-20 thou. Because a Chevy has a symmetrical bolt pattern, you can pull the bolts after marking the "high spot" on the flywheel, and spin the flywheel 180 degrees to re-indicate. If the high spot is now 180 off from the old high spot, you know it's not the flywheel, it would be the crank.
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