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Technical Floor Pans - How bad is this?

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by IRMB, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    I'm setting about fixing the hack job the previous owners did on this car -and have cut our the home made diamond plate floorpans they attempted to weld in.

    It looks like they cut out part of the cross brace, just under the front seat, one of the forward body mounts.

    There's also a ton of rust - right along the top of the rockers.

    This is my first experience -so not sure if what I'm dealing with is normal'ish.

    How bad does this look from the perspective of an experience hamb'er?

    Thanks much!
     
  2. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

  3. Well from where I sit is about as ugly as a baboons butt.

    You will need to replace the seat support even if you buy all new floor boards for it. And a picture would help as well. What you are repairing is common if that is what you want to know.

    Don't look too bad now that you posted pics. you can post tme in the original ppst though and not have anything show up until you hit submit.
     
  4. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    pics are up, now. thanks!

    I'm totally 100% new to this, and just not sure if i should tackle it - or pay someone.

    Not sure if any of this is really structural or not.

    If you look close, you can see where the flange coming off the seat support is cut off. There are small cuts in the forward body mount - and the body mount just in front of the kick plates is not attached to anything at the bottom.

    Do I need to build these up?

    I have new floor pans and kicks plates that are pretty darn thick. I was thinking about leaving a lot of material on, under the seats - and creating about a 1' overlap.

    Also thinking about creating some angled peices on the right hand side, foot well - just to thicken everything up - and provide more material support.

    Ideas are welcome!
     

  5. I edited, maybe someone else will learn from it.

    Looks like you are in pretty good shape as things go.
     
  6. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Thanks. I usually post from my computer - and add pics through the hamb tapatalk app. Easier than having to create a web album.

    I know it's a hack - but this is the hamb!
     
  7. Let me take a wild guess the your working on a 57-58 Ford. If so then that's pretty standard Body Rott for them. Being you have no bracing and the Cowell looks to just be hanging it's real easy to build in a large issue. You might want to think about Door Fit prior to just welding things up.
    The Wizzard
     
  8. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    What's the cowell supposed to connect to?

    and not sure what "it's real easy to build in a large issue" means.

    Thanks.
     
  9. The Cowell is normally supported by what's rusted away. Your A pillar is part of that. The Door hangs on it. If you weld sheet metal in to patch your Large hole without this in proper place the Large Issue you'll have a good shot of building in is that getting proper Door alignment and also front fender fit may not be so easy. I guess it's possible the photos don't show everything but what I see shows me a good chance at a not so good final product.
    The Wizzard
     
  10. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Cool thanks. The body mounts are not completely cut through, but they do have small cuts in them and that is my concern. I'm thinking I can add material to make them stronger, but since I am new to welding this kind of concerns me. I'll post close-up pictures later.
     
  11. You may want to check out E.M.S. for some patch pieces. They are not exact but with a little help can make your project a lot easier. Door fit is a must in my book prior to welding anything solid. Some inside bracing helps a Ton.
    The Wizzard
     
  12. hellsgaterods
    Joined: Dec 8, 2010
    Posts: 534

    hellsgaterods
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    No worse then what I started with
     
  13. There not all that bad the bones are good. is this an old mopar or chevy. take your time and remember make it safe.
     
  14. bulletproof1
    Joined: Feb 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,080

    bulletproof1
    Member
    from tulsa okla

    my henry j was that bad...
     
  15. Just take your time and reinforce areas you are unsure of,,we all started somewhere. HRP
     
  16. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Thanks guys. Especially hellsgator. Gives me hope.

    Here's my first run ever w a mig. I think I can do this !

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1379985025.854002.jpg
     
  17. Frankenstein57
    Joined: Jun 16, 2010
    Posts: 75

    Frankenstein57
    Member

    Sure looks like a 57-58 ford. Good news is these parts are all reproduced. All this damage could have been caused by leaking cowl drain hoses. The rear of this car might be solid.
     
  18. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Yah, this is a 58 Country Sedan.

    The spare tire well has a little rust and the inside of the tailgate has some rust. But I think it's relatively solid, otherwise.
     
  19. 58 ford there should be complete front floors if you do the floors be sure to place a good brace under the front floor
     
  20. Yes, you can.

    Have a look at my build thread. I started with worse and had no experience either.
     
  21. jesdude
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 151

    jesdude
    Member

    You can do it. Take a look at my build thread and you'll see what I am dealing with. Your damage is very similar to mine. I had no experience before I started but I just took my time and marked my patch panels and kept test fitting, trimming, and tweaking before I started to weld them in. It took me probably a whole day to do my driver side patch panel and toe board patch. You just have to be patient in my opinion.
     
  22. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Great thread and thanks for the motivation!
     
  23. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,965

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    I made also new floors for my project.I think they were a bit worse than yours,i had to cut off most of them.I even made beadroller dies to make that job a bit easier,because i didnt find any good quality floor pans with fair price and they were easy to fab...
    But i guess you havent done much sheetmetal work,so i suggest you to buy new floor panels and use them.It will make you work a lot easier and you will get some good practise.
    There is some story and pics about my work too in my build thread,i hope there is some help for you in the thread.Good luck with the project!
     
  24. olcarguy
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 85

    olcarguy
    Member

    Your welds look Ok practice some butt welds. The experience will help.
     
  25. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Thanks.

    I did a few last night and am going to do some more tonight.

    I'll post pics once the new floors are in.
     
  26. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Have any of you had to create a lip to lay the new floor pans on? I need the cut pretty much everything out of the foot wells.

    Or do i just weld the pans right to the inside wall?
     
  27. ronnieroadster
    Joined: Sep 9, 2004
    Posts: 894

    ronnieroadster
    Member

    .Should have a lip when you weld the parts together it will be much stronger and produce less warping,
     
  28. Being that this is your first go I wouldn't get to Krazzy about a step flange. After all, it's getting a pad and carpet over most of it as well as the front seat. A lap joint is just fine. I'd try to keep it about 1/2" or so. Yes there is a tool called a step tool that works well in an air Chisel hand tool. Your welds look Hot and fast. Try to get more of what I call stacking coins look and much more flat on the edges. I'm guessing here but it looks like your using inner shield wire. I don't really care for that stuff but then we all have to work with what we have. I prefer solid core and .023 for floor gauge metal. If I were to Mig weld them I'd use 75-25 gas. It's cleaner, hotter, faster, better penetration. When doing a lap joint I do not weld solid on the edge. I punch holes and Plug Weld then seam seal on both sides. Much less clean up and just as good. Another thing new welders don't often understand is how important is is to be Clean. I mean the metal. No rust, no paint no undercoat on both sides of what your doing. If shit is burning while your trying to weld there goes your shield gas, a breeze in your work space will also do that. Rust will come up into your weld causing pinholes, yes even from the other side. There goes your weld strength. Take the time to clean what your working on.
    The Wizzard
     

    Attached Files:

  29. Do yourself a big favor and either have it blasted, or get a small sandblaster and at least clean up the area your working on. Practice your welding until you can do a 1"-2" butt weld, put the piece in the vise, bend it back and forth till it breaks. It should break the metal around the weld, not the weld, every time. For plug welds use 18 gauge to practice. Drill a 5/16" hole, put the piece over another and weld up the hole. Bend it so you can put the bottom piece in a vise and grab the top with vise grips. Twist it til it breaks. It should make a hole in the bottom piece 1/4" minimum. Once you can do both welds and consistently pass the "destructive" your ready to weld on your car.

    Then do as suggested. Fit your doors, brace it, and start cutting out the bad, reproducing it the best you can, and put her back together. It's a big job. Huge job, but you gotta jump in and learn. At least your not chopping the top as a first project!
     
  30. IRMB
    Joined: Apr 3, 2013
    Posts: 149

    IRMB
    Member
    from SF Bay

    Great input. Thanks!

    I will get back into this tonight or tomorrow. Been busy with work the last couple days...
     

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