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Technical Floor in '36 cab?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by RodNoc, Feb 8, 2016.

  1. RodNoc
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 93

    RodNoc
    Member
    from Kelso, WA

    So I am almost to the point where I can start to fabricate a floor for my '36 ford cab. My plans were to build a sub structure from some 1x2 .095 tubing i have that will be fully welded to the cab then tack/rosette weld the sheet metal floor to that. Afterwards apply some seam sealer to the edges.

    Is this what is common practice or should the sheet be fully welded to the sub floor?

    Thanks again for all yhe knowledge and expertise the hamb provides.

    Pics... 20151207_063808.jpg 20151207_063825.jpg 20160128_145239.jpg
     
    texkbc likes this.
  2. Well first off I think your over building it. Rectangle Tubing is and overkill even though you seem to see a lot of it done here. 16 or 18 gauge is plenty for all of it even hand built. Your not building a Tank. Here is a small sample for food for thought. It's all 18 gauge. The cab needs to be able to Flex some if for no other reason for final fit and alignment.
    30 roadster floorboards 001.jpg 30 roadster floorboards 002.jpg 30 roadster floorboards 007.jpg
    The Wizzard
     
    texkbc likes this.
  3. RodNoc
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 93

    RodNoc
    Member
    from Kelso, WA

    I wouldn't doubt I'm over complicating some of this but it is my first rod or full build for that matter. So perhaps 16ga full welded around the inside perimeter of the cab would be better?
     
  4. I agree, don't over build this, If you have a bead roller and can put some beads or steps in it it will be strong. You call your project a '36 cab so I guess this is a truck cab? will the battery be under the floor? what about the master cylinder, under the floor also? if so and you plan on having removable panels to get to them, just step the sheet metal for the removable panels (so they fit flush) this will give some streingth also.
     

  5. But don't forget some structure for the seat to bolt to and seat belts if you are going to use them.
     
  6. Here is a photo with the Door open, again food for thought only. I'm channeled 6". The cross pieces or Hat Channel as I call them has a 1/2" lift to it so vertical wall is 5.5" tall. Plug welds work well. All body mount holes are recessed so carpet has no bumps.
    December 2012 007.jpg This is real basic sheet metal work and far easier to control everything about it.
    The Wizzard
     
  7. RodNoc
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 93

    RodNoc
    Member
    from Kelso, WA

    I dont plan on any opening panels. Master cylinder will be early sixties chevy style clutch/brake combo on the firewall and the battery will be out back below bed floor. I only have a 4" front / 3" rear channel. I dont doubt my ability to physically do it, my goal is to not screw it up. Did you make the hat channel or fab it? I dont have a brake, so ill be using angle iron and hand tools.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
  8. RodNoc
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 93

    RodNoc
    Member
    from Kelso, WA

    Also, if plug welds will work I'll assume you come back from below with seam sealer. Living in Portland I know I will drive it on wet streets more than once.
     
  9. I use a sheet metal shop in Hazel Dell to fold up all my Weird needs. Cheep and quick if you know what you want. There are a Ton of good shops on the other side of the Creek. Some times it's better to pay just a bit to end up with a Better job. We all have our own ways of doing things.
    Yes, plug welds and a tube of Seam Sealer. Then spray the bottom with Bed Liner not undercoat.
    The Wizzard
     

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