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Hot Rods Flex brake line from frame to rear axle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rob28, May 25, 2020.

  1. Rob28
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 103

    Rob28
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    Hello all
    I’m looking for ideal on how people ran their flex line down to the rear axle from the frame. I’m not happy with what I have created I feel there will be a lot of flex and pressure put on the -3an fitting going into the junction block on my frame and I’m worried it with break
    What has everyone else done for this joint
    Thanks for any info
    IMG_1445.JPG IMG_1446.JPG
    IMG_1447.JPG
     
    RAR1947 likes this.
  2. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,221

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Usually the junction block bolts to the frame and is female inverted flair in and out inline. You have created a bunch of potential leak points with all of those pipe thread adapters. They also lengthened the connection. There is nothing wrong with using a 90 degree block if it fits, but all of the extra connections you have is kind of creating the reason you asked the question. I can't tell by the photos, but is that a DOT approved flex line? I would just keep it simple and stay with all inverted flare connections.
     
    Country Joe and 1934coupe like this.
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,870

    squirrel
    Member

    I use OEM hose, it's designed to fit in a hole in a bracket and retained by a clip, it works fine on millions of cars.
     
    X-cpe, olscrounger, 1934coupe and 3 others like this.
  4. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 7,132

    jimmy six
    Member

    How much are you planning for rear end movement? I like the factory black ones.... less to go wrong. I think they were Dormans..
     
    olscrounger likes this.

  5. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,257

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    ‘69 Camaro rear brake hose. NAPA Part #: UP 36586

    Inverted flare end to mount to the frame and take the tube nut. Other end has a mountable T fitting for the rear end, with inverted flare for more tube nuts.

    Easily available, at any NAPA.



    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  6. Rob28
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 103

    Rob28
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    They are DOT approved lines I had a local Hyd shop make up.
    Plan B is going to route it a little differently see the pictures I can get full travel of the suspension with out any binding. Just using a old (65 mustang)brake line I have ordered a new one as this one is damaged but gives me a better ideal for placement
    The Camaro line has the wrong size hole in it for my vent tube
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 1,263

    6sally6
    Member

    I like plan B better........less places to leak and looks less cluttered.
    6sally6
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  8. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 1,428

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    How I did my flex line. These pics don’t show the bracket I fabbed to mount the hard line to the rearend but you can see how I did the flex line. Lots of miles on the coupe and zero issues.
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  9. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 8,217

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Cycle suspension up and down to ensure that line does not bind anywhere or come into contact with any other components. That hose radius is within safe limits. The chassis coupling is safer than a cantilevered union.
     
  10. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 6,873

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Camaro lines are designed to bolt to the rear end cover bolt up around 11 o'clock, the OP has a ford style that bolts to the axle vent tube. Both will work but nor with his existing hard lines.

    I just went trough this on my truck and went to Oil Filter Service in Portland, OR and got hooked up with a nice hose that attaches to my frame via a horseshoe clip like Squirrel recommended. The first one I purchased was made "just west of California" and leaked (poor threads in a cheap silver metal Y block with hose swedeged on). Now running an original late model brass V block with hose that threads into it. V style (late design) block with vent tube hole (71-74) the Y block was earlier (62-70). Ford t bird, torino, mustang, maverick, bronco, etc
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  11. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 314

    Almostdone
    Member

    Mine is closer to your plan B. OEM flex line like Squirrel suggested.
    BFF44ABF-6F2E-4BCB-A3E9-54F3450DA0B7.jpeg

    C0D42AD7-AF78-4131-AB13-DA98DECFD1AF.jpeg
     
    olscrounger likes this.
  12. Ericnova72
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 429

    Ericnova72
    Member

    I like the Plan B location....but keep the Plan A braided hose....put a straight through adapter block on the frame in Plan B location
     
  13. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,032

    Dirk35
    Member

    Like all the other have said, Go with "Plan B", get rid of the extra connections which you don't need. Also, put that junction directly over top of the Axle, NOT 8 inches in front of it (and NOT over the upper 4-link bar and NOT under the panhard bar) like you have in the picture. You are over-thinking this by routing that line where you have it in the pic on "Plan B".

    Keep the flex line the same length. Just wrap it in kinda a loop then tighten it down. It'll hold the "loop" shape.

    445a3317b75a33a56e37dadce020b69e.jpg
     
  14. Rob28
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 103

    Rob28
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    Thanks for the advice for everyone it’s sometimes amazing the simplest solution is the hardest to come up with
    Used a 65 mustang brake line (easily available at my local Napa) that I flipped to angle the hose towards the frame
    Made up a bracket to hold the end and attached it to the original hard line I had already made up. Gives me at least 1/2” clearance to the coil over at any point in travel
    IMG_1469.JPG
    IMG_1466.JPG
    IMG_1464.JPG
     
  15. 1oldtimer
    Joined: Aug 21, 2003
    Posts: 7,594

    1oldtimer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IF it looks like it might stretch it too far, you can always shorten the hardline and make the flex line go under the panhard bar.

    Mine is a little different.
    brake lines-8.jpg
     
  16. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 192

    brading
    Member

    Now that looks a proper job Rob, not like the lash up before.
     
  17. TRENDZ
    Joined: Oct 16, 2018
    Posts: 201

    TRENDZ

    One thing to consider when doing something like this with hose...
    A 180° loop is best. Any angle different from zero or 180 induces twist to the hose through suspension travel. When planning mounting locations, fasten one side, and hold with your hand the other end. If the hose tries twisting in your hand when moving the suspension, you are choosing a poor mounting position.
     
  18. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,007

    southcross2631
    Member

    I used a 60's Fairlane on my car. the narrowed rear put the vent right under the frame rail. DSCF3512.JPG
     
  19. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,032

    Dirk35
    Member

    Your 1st picture on post # 14 looks good. Do that, but move the tab down about an inch on the frame rail so the flex line wont hit the floorpan of the body when the suspension is compressed (possibly making a rub location on the flex line). Your picture has it about 1/4" from the top of the frame rail, put it about 1/4" from the bottom of the frame rail.

    BTW, Are you getting tired of taking those shocks on and off? I see three different configurations of it just in the pictures on post #14 alone (1 fully assembled, 2 shock with spring cups, 3 shock w/o spring cups). :p
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2020

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