No I did not compression test it before. I guess I should have. What should compression be? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you can get someone to assist you, loosen the distributor and while they are cranking it turn the distributor either way until it either fires or back fires then adjust accordingly. Flatheads are as basic as they come, and they all want to run!
You can do what merc cruzer states above by yourself. You need to buy a remote start switch. They are great for working alone.
Ok an engine needs three things to run. Compression Fuel Ignition. It also needs all three to come together at the same time. You say you are positive that the distributor is timed right. How did you time the engine before you dropped the distributor in? Did you bring number one up on compression and get the marks lined up and then drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the spot on the cap wete number one wire goes? Or did you bump the engine over or turn it by hand until the marks lined up and then drop the distributor in? 4 cycle engines have the timing marks line up on every rotation but on one rotation the engine is on top compression and the next time it is at the top of the exhaust stroke. That would put it 180 out if you had it at the top of the exhaust stroke. If that is right: do you have the engine wired right with the firing order? I wired the 283 I built for my T bucket in the same firing order that I was used to on my 350 R in my Cutlass Olds when I put it together and it did just what you are saying your flathead is doing. Wiring it in the same firing order as your rig you have worked on for years and wire without thinking may have happened. On the soot on the plugs and what not, I'd say that your carbs need some attention by someone who really knows what they are doing. It sounds like you have had a problem there for a while and it isn't going to get better until it's fixed. Here is the link to Vanpelt' 49/53 flathead tuneup page including compression pressure. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_tuneup49-53_239-255.htm
Thanks for the reply and I brought number one up on compression then I line up the marks make sure the rotor is facing number one on the cap.. carbs may need some attention but the motor was running just the way they are tuned and I haven't touched them. The motor should start. Spark plug wiring is definetly right aswell. Going to check fuel pressure and compression test tomorrow I suppose Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds to me like it's either flooded or 180 degrees out. I know you said you weren't 180 degrees out, but on a flathead there's no way you can be sure of that unless you remove a head (or the intake manifold) and look at the valves before they reach TDC.
This is what I keep coming back to from the original post. Did you only adjust the valves? Are they properly lashed? Were the valve stems and guides varnished up? What about the lifters and bores? Did you grind or lap the valves and seats? A cranking vacuum and compression test should help point you in the right direction.
Any flathead guys know what the lifter gap is for intake and exhaust valves? My intakes I set to .011 and .014 for exhaust Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Your valve clearance is not your problem. Are you sure you have good fuel? Give it a shot of starting fluid and see if it fires. Maybe the stuff you have in the tank doe's not burn! Gary
Hahaha this is what my dad said too I'm doing a compression test right now Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
if your'e in there checking clearances, you should set them all at .016-.017 this will ensure they are closing completely, at high rpm and operating temp you will get expansion, you need complete closure to build any compression. You did mention it ran shitty at high rpm, this could be the advance curve depending on which distrib. your'e running. Make sure when setting the clearances the lifter is all the way down. I've had johnsons move around on me in the past, with a regrind cam.
No further suggestions, but I do have a question. Why do we set spark timing based on crankshaft degrees, but when a distributor is in wrong we call it 180 degrees out instead of 360? I know that it's 180 out relative to the cam position, but we are talking about spark timing here.
I know that. It just seems as though we have two different ways of looking at timing. I guess maybe it's just the way some people say it. They say the timing is 180 degrees off, when it's actually 360.
Spent the day messing with it again compression is low for some reason cylinder 1 is only 75 pounds and I also bought a vacuum gauge to do a cranking test the arrow is bouncing around the 0 mark. Did re check the valves and install a fuel pressure Guage 3 pounds going through it. It has to be carb related, really all that's left. Don't know why all the cylinders are so low on compression either Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Tryed giving it some fuel by pouring down the first carb. No difference. It was from the tank though. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Did you pull number 1 plug and with your finger over the plug hole bump the engine over with the starter until the compression in the cylinder pushed against your finger and you got the timing mark lined up showing that the piston was on top of the compression stroke? You have to positively know that it is up on top compression on number 1 to get the distributor timed right and cannot go by guess and bygolly to get that done. On the compression being low you might have washed the cylinders down trying to start it and getting a lot of unburned gas in it. A squirt of oil in each cylinder might help that.
Shot in the dark!! Did you remove the carb when you removed the manifold to adjust the valves? Did you maybe leave a rag in the manifold where the carb goes? Just a though!! Pete
I know this is reaching, but I had a key switch, throw me off before, so test that and another time I had a tach short internally and I chased that short for a while. If it sat a while, depending on where it's stored, corrosion can wreak havoc with ones head/brain.
It could be old fuel, it goes pretty stale after 3 or so months around here , Black soot on plugs is incomplete combustion and can also show up with incorrect timing. Have you got the firing order correct? Flatheads are numbered differently to many other V8s and also have a different firing order.
Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App![/QUOTE] If your plugs are sooty and you are absolutely certain timing is correct, I suspect the plugs are carbon fouled. Either clean the center terminal insulator or temporarily replace with clean plugs. Good luck, Farmalldan
The Mallory distributor you have, if its electronic it probably wont work worth a shit on a 6 volt system. Dual point should be OK. If dual point check the condensers that may be junk right out of the box.
Lmao yes and iv tryed moving it 180 degrees about 5 times now just for the heck of it. Very good idea on the oil in cylinders. It's very low on compression but super tight by hand to turn.. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks it's a dual point I think the liners grabbed or something now.. may pull the heads to take a look Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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