Technical Flathead/T5 racket – fool me once...

On mine I had to do some grinding on the bellhousing because the flywheel was rubbing.

 

Kevin, I don't know anything about that setup you have. Does it have a hyd. TO Brg. or what? Many of the late model cars using a T5 have a hyd. setup that keeps the p. plate fingers in light contact with the TO Brg. and some of the cable systems are similar.
The McCloud Hyd TO Brg used in BGII (my roadster) is one the collar like a normal TO BRG, but spaced out to lightly contact the pp fingers with pedal all way up.
When I questioned McCloud rep about this, he said almost all late model manuals are set up like that.
If you are using a Long type p plate, maybe the 3 fingers aren't adjusted quite the same.

 

45 years ago I started tearing up second gear/cluster gears in early Ford Trans behind built flatmotors(big bore,stroke, etc) I opted for a Chevrolet 4 spd usin Offie adapter(5272a) served me well for years behind many flatmotors.Bought a Speedway adaptor for $100 less than Offy only to find out it rubbed(made motor lock up) in the clutch area unless bellhousing was spaced out approx 3/8 between engine and bellhousing.Speedway will sell you a "slim clutch" for around $150 or so.If you run bigger than 9-9.5 clutch,you will need spacers between adapter and engine.The Offy part is made for more clearance than the Speedway part(read the fine print in the Speedway ad)

 

In his first post, Kevin said it only makes the noise when clutch pedal is out, and that doesn't sound like an interference between p. plate & bell hsg., as that would rub all the time.
I'm still wondering about p plate fingers out of equal adjustment if it's a setup similar to mine.

 

Clutch counter weights may be hitting the adapter bell. What size pressure plate are you running?
I used the Bond adapter plate and a hogshead with no issues, but the speedway clutch disc was pure trash.

 

How about some more information--- Which T5 was used? Maybe the throwout bearing sleeve is hitting the arms.

 

Again, Kevin says noise is only when clutch is engaged, and all these things yall are suggesting should interfere all the time, not just when clutch is engaged, in or out of gear.
The only one of these suggestion that makes any sense to me is maybe the counterweights, since they do have a different position when engaged vs disengaged.

 

Ryan... Thanks for posting that "American way"..... I missed it originally.
Very eye opening...... (Really..... You'd think they'd at least write different instructions)


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Right, noise is when pedal is out (clutch engaged). If the throwout sleeve is too long (which some T5s are) then the sleeve could be protruding into the pressure plate springs. All respect, but you gotta prove your case before you throw the vendor under the bus.

 

You have a point Mike, as the p. plate fingers do extend further to rear with clutch engaged, so that makes 3 things that can be causing a noise only with clutch engaged. I agree with Ryan about the problem should be easy to spot when pulled back apart,
And I wholeheartedly agree, it ain't time yet to throw the vendor under the bus. I don't like it that Speedway sells so much Chinese stuff. But in today's world of a majority of consumers who only consider price before purchasing, it's about the only way they can compete. It ain't just Speedway, I've got a Summit store just 20 miles from me that has thousands of sq. ft. of warehouse, with a lot of Chinese stuff in it.
And I bought stuff from a local guy who gets his stuff from Barnett/BCI in ATL, who has been around forever, some of it was Chinese when it arrived, some is OK, but some of it caused me a lot of work to R&R with better stuff.

 

Had the exact same problem, although mine interfered so much that it wouldn't even crank. Chucked the adapter up in the lathe and cleaned up the inside where the casting was too thick. Problem solved. Just a pain to have to dis and re assemble.

 

This is traditional. In the fifty's nothing ever was a bolt on. You expected that you were buying a good start on what they advertised. Still true sometimes I guess.

 

Yes.

 

I have to agree with Rich Fox, as when there is as much cautionary info posted as was posted about the adaptor and p.plate, a prudent and cautious builder would have at leas turned the engine a few rounds to check for interference,and it would have forestalled all the grief that Kevin now faces in disassembly.
I ran into a similar situation trying to finish up a roadster that I bought with a Brookville rolling chassis "A" already mocked up with a 9" rear, 4spd Mustang toploader with jeep shifter and sbc engine using a McCloud bell hsg and plate adaptor. I measured and had an alum. Crown Vic cop car driveshaft shortened to fit and balanced as mocked up and figgered I had all that right.
But then I actually built my engine, complete with flywheel, clutch disc and p.plate, bell hsg. and adaptor. Well, the input shaft was too short! Investigation revealed that somebody @ McCloud had sold the prev. owner an apaptor plate he didn't need, as a spacer ring still in the box and another bolt pattern already drilled and tapped in the bell hsg. eliminated the need for the adaptor and solved the "Too Short" input shaft problem.
Lots of measuring, disassembly and reassembly to get it right and now I have a nice aluminum driveshaft that's 3/4" shorter than the optimum length. It's working, but sometime soon I'm either going to get another driveshaft built or install a longer yoke.
Moral of the story is that when we fail to check everything (and I did fail to check that first) it will often bite you in the ass!

 

How big of a clutch did you try to run? On car flatheads you don't need the big truck clutches. I'm betting your knuckles are draggin' cuz you tried to run a 10" or bigger clutch.

 

Too bad the Auburn clutch isn't still around. No weights, lightweight, and tight grip. They were the clutch to run back inna day.

 

Offenhauser bell housing carries the same warning, where is that one made?

 

I remember the first adapter I ever bought. Long bell housing Chrysler to a Packard three speed. I thought once it came I was home free. It came with a list of what I was going to have to scrounge from the junk yard. And info on the drill I would need for the crankshaft and a drawing of what I needed to cut and grind off the bellhousing. Not that great for a kid with few tools. Another reason I decided to become a machinist.

 

There were than a few times when I was writing installation instructions for speed equipment that I wanted to add the following: THIS IS A VERY EASY JOB PROVIDED YOU HAVE A FULL MACHINE SHOP AT YOUR DISPOSAL AND A MACHINIST FRIEND WITH AT LEAST 20 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE

 

For me these days.....any vendor parts I receive, I simply expect them to all need some massaging......or possibly not even fit.........just a fact of life today.
not saying I like it! ):

Their is one supplier in California when you order....receive it......it just falls into place and you bolt it on and carry on!
He has done his homework.
that is so refreshing.........

 

I sure would like to know who that supplier is, and maybe a link?

 

I run a T5 behind a '52 Merc with Cornhusker adapter, hydraulic cylinder & PP in my roadster - works great!! Only go to Speedway for simple stuff.

 

This is not what I wanted to read man. Damn. Let me know what I can do to help please.

 

Mine did exactly the same thing. Only made the noise with clutch in. Didn't start until three months after install though. Turned out to be the springs in the clutch disc were rattling as the retaining metal had fractured.

New clutch disc from a new vendor and fixed.