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Flathead storage question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NOV07, Dec 12, 2012.

  1. NOV07
    Joined: Jun 25, 2012
    Posts: 9

    NOV07
    Member
    from Tennessee

    I just got my 8ba back from the machine shop, installed the bottom end and the valve train. Now I am deploying (for the fifth time). I'll get back sometime in spring of 2014.

    What is the best way to store the motor? Should I finish the assembly and then have some one turn it over by hand? Should I have them keep the cylinders lubes with penetrating oil?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,474

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Don't know how humid it gets out there, pretty much nonexistent here. Maybe coat the cylinders and deck area with motor oil and put it in a sealed bag, then lay an old blanket over it.
     
  3. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,298

    19Fordy
    Member

    If possible keep it in a warm area.
     

  4. austinhunt
    Joined: Nov 26, 2011
    Posts: 533

    austinhunt
    Member

    Cosmoline as stated, if not possible for you you could drop it in a barrel of diesel? But that is $$$.

    Most important is to keep the oil galleries full of oil. Buy some 30 wt (not 10w30) or heavier non detergent oil and fill her up. crank the oil pump over by hand (drill) until you think its through the system.

    A guy here stored an engine and went all out to preserve it but he forgot about the oil galleries. They rusted and his NEW bearings suffered.
     
  5. pinkynoegg
    Joined: Dec 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,136

    pinkynoegg
    Member

    I would put it together and lube everything. better to have a motor sit full of oil than sit dry
     
  6. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Cosmoline needs to be removed again and is messy. If its individual parts I would rub all surfaces with grease and cover in trash bags and close with tape. I also like to use Chain Guard spray-on motorcycle chain lube. It's much thicker than WD 40 and does not dry out.
    Gibbs supposedly works great on bare metal surfaces.
    One year should not be much of a problem for an assembled engine with a little oil squirted in the bores and cranked a couple of times.
     
  7. Skeezix
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 845

    Skeezix
    Member
    from SoCal

    Fifth time ?
    Wow be safe


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  8. DeadGuy2
    Joined: Nov 30, 2012
    Posts: 117

    DeadGuy2
    Member

    What they said PLUS SHRINK WRAP IT!!!

    Worked for me on a new built 6 cyl for a year.
     
  9. 87Heaven
    Joined: Dec 20, 2009
    Posts: 71

    87Heaven
    Member

    Let me start by saying Thank You for doing what you do. I would not be able to do what I do if not for you guys, I cant thank you enough.

    Now for the question,
    Everything already stated will work to some degree.

    My opinion is this:
    Oil and grease the hell out of the motor.
    Don't put the heads on, you will only have to take them off when you get back to reoil the cyls and make sure no rust has developed.

    Don't put the pan on either, you will need to recoat the cam and lifters from the bottom with zdp type oil before you begin the re-assembly.

    Finally, get a couple pouches of moisture absorbing material (swiming pool companies usualy throw them away) and a couple rolls of plastic food wrap and wrap it up.

    Thats my opinion, It has worked for me in the past

    Good luck with whatever you do....

    Be safe.
     
  10. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,346

    vtx1800
    Member

    I don't have any technical help but do want to thank you for serving!
     
  11. Like a few of the other guys I don't have anything to add but I will go along with 87HEAVEN's ideas. But I also want to thank you and all the others that do what you do so all us old farts can keep doing what we love so much. USA, USA
     
  12. woodypecker
    Joined: Jan 23, 2011
    Posts: 300

    woodypecker
    Member

    I have found that the closer to the floor or the walls of my garage that I store things the more they rust. Because the normal temperature change the more condensation. Point is set it up on a stand box or anything to keep it off of the floor. It probably will have to be against the wall. Thank you for your service and good luck.
     
  13. pflaming
    Joined: Dec 12, 2012
    Posts: 2

    pflaming
    Member
    from California

    I grew up in Western Nebraska. Dad grew wheat. Our combines / harvesters had flatheads, cummings I think. When harvest was over, he would change the oil then run the engine til it was warm then pour gas in the carb and flood it til it died. He put the air cleaner on and left it. Next harvest it would start right up, hand crank and all.

    I just rebuilt a 218 engine which had sat for 17 years with the head off. I put the head on, new plugs and wires and it started up. My point is that the old engines are very durable.

    Good luck and safe defense work. I admire folk like you.
     
  14. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north


    Can't drive pump with a drill on a Flathead.:D

    T
     
  15. Lots of good info here, lubed, sealed with dessicant bags sounds good.

    Thoughts & prayers with you. Thank you for your service and stay safe.
     
  16. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Flatheads left to sit frequently rust first in the valve guides. If they were slathered in assembly lube probably no problem, if not be sure to put some oil atop each guide to infiltrate the area.
     
  17. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 817

    Diavolo
    Member

    My suggestion is to get oil into the passages, then smear axle grease on the cylinders and lifter bores and any other machine surface. Axle grease is cheap and will stick to everything well. Wouldn't hurt to just smear it on everything then bag it. Should be fine.
     
  18. CodeMonkey
    Joined: Sep 13, 2012
    Posts: 92

    CodeMonkey
    Member
    from Moline IL

    After you get it all greased up like others suggest, if you can get it in a bag without poking holes in the bag, take your shop vac and suck as much air out of the bag as possible and seal. Repeat the process with a second bag if you feel the need.

    And thank you for your service!
     
  19. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 862

    greaser
    Member

    I would grease up all the machined surfaces, bag it to keep it clean and find a temp controlled storage area. Extreme temperature changes and humidity will create the moisture that causes the problems. Do you have an open corner in the living room?? Ha Ha!
    Thank You for your service, and return safe!
     

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