Register now to get rid of these ads!

Flathead RUNS HOT - won't cool.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ace high, Apr 17, 2012.

  1. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Most of the heat is generated aroung town under 35mph. I'm running a 14" Summit curved blade electric puller, but I have a SPAL straight blade Puller on order. For a radiator I have a new PRC Aluminum 2 rows of 1" tubes.
     
  2. carlisle1926
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 536

    carlisle1926
    Member

    I haven't seen anyone say this yet, but what about the valve settings? I had one that the valves were not gapped properly in. I had them a bit to tight. They didn't make the usual slight clickity clack that non hydraulic valves make. It made it run hot. Also if you have a crack between the valves, exhaust gases entering the water jacket can make one run hot. Just another thought to cause more confusion.
     
  3. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    Do you have any history on this engine,Did it run good before those alm heads were put on.Did you put them on.maybe something wrong with them,gasket wrong hole proplem.I think it maybe time to pull the heads.They sure look nice but may not be good for 8ba.
     
  4. six pack to go
    Joined: Aug 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,938

    six pack to go
    Member
    from new jersey

    agreed.. finned heads look cool but can be a pain in the ass.. hence my stock heads on my flatty...
     
  5. flatjack
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 893

    flatjack
    Member

    bull!
     
  6. Hemi Joel
    Joined: May 4, 2007
    Posts: 830

    Hemi Joel
    Member
    from Minnesota

    If it runs cool on the highway, but hot in town, it is your electric fan, It dosen't move enuff air. Think about it: the motor makes MORE heat when it's working harder at highway speeds than it does idling at a stoplight. If it can run cool when it's making more heat, theres nothing wrong with the radiator or the timing or heads. It is a low speed air flow issue. The opposite is also true: if it runs cool around town but heats up on the highway, the radiator is plugged, or too small but the fan is fine. If it is hot all the time, then everything is suspect.
     
  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Take the waterpumps off & check for crap in the block.
     
  8. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    I just got my new Speedway catolog today and under alumiam heads 32 thur 48 are one set and 49 thur 53 another.If you look the back on 49 53 heads there are larger holes,and not the same on early one.THey have been interchanged but not sure of brand,and head gaskets.Just for fun of it Mine had pinking going up hills so i retared it back a little,result no change in temp,but no more ping stock dist.
     
  9. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Hi John-- I did a combustion gas leakage test tonite and things seem OK. Checked with all 8 cylinders firing, then check without right bank, and then without left bank. No turning "yellow". If it wasn't the exact same blue as in the bottle, it was leaning toward a blue/green (if I were to split hairs) . But not a color change toward yellow.
     
  10. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Well that is good news bad news deal. If you had much of a gas leak it would have gotten yeller fast,even a very small leak gets greenish fairly quick. But you stil have the #$*%%^ heating issue. Run either 3/4 hole restrictors or stats., and confirm the dist is advancing correctly. Any chance it is running very lean?
     
  11. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Plugs look good- tan color.
    Distributor set at initial 10* with a total of about 28* all in by 2500rpm.
    Pulled the thermostats and put 5/8" hole restrictors and it seems better but still hotter than I'd like it.
    Checked my gauge against another gauge and it seems on the money.
    Radiator is new 2 rows of 1" tubes. (aluminum)

    I just ordered a new SPAL straight blade fan to replace my Summit curved blade fan
     
  12. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,968

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    May not mean anything,12v fan are not vary strong,some better then others,but seem too work for me,on nearly all 12v fans,the plastic shoud has a lot of little saftey grates between the main braces that can be removed and help it more more air,also if the shoud stands off from the core anymore then 1/16in. it leaks air it from behind rad in stead of pulling it through it. Manytimes a sealed sheet running from the fan housing out to edges of rad frame help fan pull from all core if both fan anheet are lifted as little as 1/4in gap off core but other wise sealed.
    Time sound A>O>K at 28*,can be as much 32*total but that would be upper limit
     
  13. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member


    Many of you have made a number of recommendations of tests to do to narrow down this running hot issue. Thanks to all.

    I've done a number of them and here are some of the results.
    All tests done with No thermostats. Used 5/8 hole restrictors.
    Using 7 lbs radiator cap.
    Cooling system pressure test held at 18 lbs.
    Block test for combustion gases checked out OK.
    Used a digital temp reader and comfirmed temp on right side and left sides of heads/water outlets/etc are similar around 190*.
    On a coolish 55* nite the engine idled for an hour with gauge reading 190*
    All across both heads temp was 185*-190* ----- Intake manifold reads 220*
    Top Radiator tank temp was around 185* and the Lower Radiator tank was around 160*.
    Electric fan kicks on about 185* -- Dash temp gauge stays constant at around 190*
    Took it out on the road to 40mph at temp gauge instantly climbed to 200*
    After shutting engine down, the fan within minutes brought gauge down to below 160*
    Intial timing 10* --- Full 28* advance all in at 2500rpm
    Plugs are brown
    Well there you have it. This is on a cool night. I know things will be worse on an 75 to 85 degree day.
     
  14. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    Down on lower right you will see Fordbarn,Those guy will give you good advice they know flatheads.Ask about putting early style alm heads on 8ba.
    Is the past condition unknow for this engine?
     
  15. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Engine recently rebuilt complete-- bearing, rings, cam, lifters, valves
     
  16. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Brown plugs are a lean condition too. Lean can add heat, but Brown being better then wet black.

    To me 190 is not bad. I assumed you checked the thermo to the cars gauge to match.

    Any flathead that ran hot for me was fixed with a recored rad or timing.
     
  17. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Yes- The thermos were verified to open at 180. When I had the thermos in things were the same although slight hotter.

    Plugs have brown electrode and black surounding on shell.
     
  18. If your new fan does not fix the problem, dump a bottle of Purple Ice into the coolant. Some like it, some dont, but it's not expensive and it sure works for me. You may find a 10-15 degree drop. Also I think your fan should come on a bit earlier than 185. If you have an adjustable temp switch, cut it back to about 175.
     
  19. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Sorry meant the in fared thermometer to the cars gauge.

    I'd run it without any restrictors to test too.
     
  20. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Infared gauge closely match dash gauge. I tried without restrictors or thermos and it seem to run hotter.
     
  21. Try static timing at 4 degrees............
    do you have a shroud?
    if so is your fan correctly located...........
     
  22. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    I re read all your posts and what I got from what you posted that with or without restriction it reaches a high temp. Only difference is the speed of the rising temp.

    Timing good. Etc

    What is left is the rad or fan. Is the radiator to small to efficiently cool then? Maybe a fan shroud is in order? Typed too slow
     
  23. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Fan covers the top 2/3 of the radiator. The electric I'm using has its own 14" dia shroud.

    I'll try pulling back the timing but won't that make it run hotter with less advance?
     
  24. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    That's the exact direction that I'm leaning toward. Will work on the fan issue first. If that doesn't help then I'll have to break out the big bucks and focus on the rad.
     
  25. That 1" tube thing never sat well with me, do you have an old radiator that you can swap in for a bit? Quite a long shot I know...

    Bob
     
  26. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    If you can borrow a good stock one you could test it to see before buying. Ya like we all have decent radiators laying around, I know.
     
  27. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    All radiators are not the same as fin count is as important as number and size of tubes. As I recall 10-12 fins per inch is a good start. You can have too many as well as too few. Too many restricts the air flow and causes heating issues ,too few and you can not get rid of enough heat. I am a fan of Walker radiators ,pricey but they seem to know what they are doing.
     
  28. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    Ya, I was kind leary about the aluminum 2 - 1" rows myself. I'll scout around for a stock rad of some year just to try before I spring for a new one.
     
  29. ace high
    Joined: Dec 15, 2007
    Posts: 202

    ace high
    Member

    My 34 sedan runs a Chevy350. It was running 235* on a hot day. I put a Walker Z-line in it and now it stays at 180* on a 95* day
     
  30. The size of the radiator shouldn't make a lot of difference. I run a Mustang rad, and it's so small I had to put a grill in the Model A radiator shell to hide the gaps. I'm the opposite to you, mine runs cool, proof that the small rad is doing the job. I know other Hambers run Mustang rads, some without fans..... just offering another possibility. I cant remember whether you are running stock pumps or not, but aftermarket ones flow way more than stock ones, reducing cavitation. If you are experiencing cavitation, this will cause hotspots in the block.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.