This may seem like a silly question, but with every other goofy-ass screw ball thing that this flathead throws at me I figured I better ask... I will be removing the flathead from my 46 in the very near future. The front sheet metal has already been removed (thanks to sawzall and tokyo for the help) so the motor is just sitting there in the frame. I borrowed a picker and have disconected just about everything from the motor. My question is, what are the best points to pick this thing? I don't want to use the carb studs because I do not want to screw up the PM-7. Would it be easier to just remove the intake and use the taps in the block or what? I feel like (read "am") a dork for asking this but the last thing I need to do if screw up the flatty or some good old speed equipment so any help would be appreciated.
why not remove the exhaust manifolds and hang it off those bolt holes? 2 of'em should do it,diagonally-george
when looking at the motor we used the rear bolt on the pass side of intake and the 2nd bolt back from the drivers side didnt even take off the manifold, i could be wrong but it worked
I lift my flatheads with a plate (3/8 ") drilled to match the intake manifold holes. One set of holes match the back of the block. (when lifting with the trans attached) The other set of holes are drilled for the middle of the engine. (no trans attached) In the middle of the plate is a forged eye bolt that can swivel to allow for "jogging" the engine in or out.
I just did one and I used the intake bolts next to the heat riser holes (looked strong there) with no problems.
I like welded plates and have done ok using one that bolted to the carb studs. As far as simple goes, the best answer is probably Yorgy's although I'd use two chains to four bolts. Be real careful - read "don't" - if you end up with a chain link at 90 degrees to an adjacent chain link. That will happen if you bolt chain to the intake manifold threaded holes and lift. Chains are not designed for side loads. Been there, done that, dropped an Olds engine and Ford Interceptor OD trans about 6" onto the front crossmember of a 50 Ford coupe when the 90 degree chain link broke. Scary....
Keep the intake on or remove it. I used the front two and rear two intake bolts with an engine leveler. I've lifted my engine many times with the intake on and off, using both the stock intake and aluminum after market intakes. If you take the intake off and use the stock intake bolts, just note that the bolt heads will not be able to cinch down to the block because the block threads are not deep enough and the intake bolts are not completely threaded. I used a larger washer in this case to spread the load out between each bolt and hoist mount as evenly as possible. If you keep the intake on, then the bolt heads have something to cinch down to, but the intake may get in the way depending on what your hoist mount points look like. Mike
Just grab a couple of those stock plates that GM left on their SBC intake manifolds, the ones they use to install the engine. They have two bolt holes and a larger hole for the chain. They'll bolt right on your flathead intake. That's what I use, and they work great; plus you don't mar the sides of your heads with the chain by using exhaust bolts.