I have this 59a I want to use in my next project. It looks like it's had a lot of recent work done. It's been bored .040 over, still has cross hatching in the cylinder walls, I've looked it over good but I see these two hairline cracks, one in each pan rail. They don't go into the webbing or anything. On is about an inch long, the other about a half inch. Is this going to be ok for a driver? Sorry for the poor pictures.
I cant imagine how a block freeze would do that and not damage inside the bottom of the water jacket either inside or outside. Look inside about one to one and a half inches up on the inside. If there are no more cracks visible, try it with a product called "Waterglass" block sealer.
Before I junked that block, I'd consult with a shop that does metal stitching. If they say not repairable, I'd take a grinder and start V'ing out the cracks to see where and how far they go. I would think that in a non-critical area like that you may be able to braze or weld it up and resurface the gasket surface. It's certainly worth investigating. Bob
Defiantly freeze cracks - usually terminal - probably go further than you think ….. presser check and go from there
Hard to tell from the pictures. Looks like rust around the area. Could be a ridge on the surface. Pressure test to see that it is a crack and go from there.
Are you sure they are cracks, and not drag marks from some one moving the block by sliding. It is hard to tell by the picture.
Definitely freeze cracks, pretty common to see in that area I guess, although I've never had a block with them. I'd look into getting them stitched if you're comfortable with it...
Welllll...some risk is warranted here if block is already pretty much done on the machining front. I would CAREFULLY expore web area to be sure cracks haven't gotten there, then drill the nds of cracks once identified and plug. I am NOT an expert of pinning, but I am suspicious about using it here because it exerts a spreading force in a narrow, thin area in this case IMHO...I personally without expert input would drill, tap, and plug those ends with a machine screw slathered in loctite. If you correctly ID the ends and kill the cracks there this might well be safe. I would consider CROSS BOLTING the crack area, drill for maybe 1/4" bolts, tap inner wall, tighten lightly with everything dipped in sealant. Bolt head might want some sort of curved washer because surface is probably not very precise on outside. If block is WELL cleaned down there, ceramic/water glass sealant on first run, if there's still a bit of crud that stuff will likely not arrive because crack is likely self sealed with the crud... All of this is idiotically risky, of course, and as a rodder I would jump right in and do it...IF cracks do not get into main web area. I'll drive down and take it off your hands if it needs an owner crazy enough to try it.
Lock-n-Stitch has great products for crack repair http://www.locknstitch.com/Default.htm below is a picture of the special threaded pin that pulls the crack together as it is tightened Good white paper on cast iron repairing here http://fulltorque.com/pdf/GMRC white paper.pdf Vergil
Hi I have a similar freeze-crack in one of my blocks. Otherwise the block seems to be in good condition. As Blocks are hard to find, Here's what i plan to do. 1.Get my expert welder to fix the cracks (he has some magic electrodes) 2.get my son to check it, NDT. 3.Send it off to check if it lines up. 4.Make a new set of mains with girdle (ex. Barron style) If this works out, the block should hold a 4" crank with modest CR. .............................. Taildragger&fenderless
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