Technical Flathead into a 1933 Ford Pickup?

About 5 years ago I acquired this 1933 Ford Pickup minus the engine and trans. It came with a lot of extra parts. I have some friends interested in some of my Model A parts with cash and want to trade a Flathead, one is a 59AB and the other is a 8BA. They both run. First question which one would be a better choice. Second question what motor mounts would I need. I have a 1939 top loader with a 35-36 trans mount I was going to use on my 35. I know I probably need to change the trans mount. Will it connect to the torque tube or do I need to change anything else? I don't know if my truck originally had a banger motor a flathead if it makes any difference? Searched some threads here on the HAMB and I didn't really find what I was looking for. Any help or insight would greatly be appreciated for my low buck truck. Thank you.

 

the 59s belt setup is alittle more snug against the motor and this is a head ache for the 8ba. They are both do able but pick and choose your battles. have both motors checked thoroughly before you make your decision.

I have the 8ba in my 32 project. trick is to run a one belt system, mounting the fan on the gen. motor mounts vary on your creativity. 8rt pumps make it realy easy to mount to the frame. but some guys fab up some 32 ish mounts that are sorta like the crager sbc cradle mount. with your truck being a 34 i think all the extra engine bay room the better. your firewal sticks out (4"?) more than the 32 i think. but in the end everything can be modified if need be.

 

If you can get both flatheads.

 

Its got doors!!!

 

Thanks for the input. I think I remember seeing how far the pulley s stuck out on the 8ba. I'm supposed to see them run next Tuesday. Thanks again for your help.

 

I put a 59AB in my 33 pickup with a 39 trans. You just need a 33/34 trans mount, clutch arm, front motor mount spacers and to modify the front crank pully and cut the "hoop" off the hand crank guide plate if it still has one. Pretty simple to do. Also, the rear will work if it was a V8 truck, if it was a 4 cylinder the torque tube/driveshaft will be about 1" too short.

 

Thank you!

 

51 mercules, chris is right on, i know having done this swap many times and chris thats one neat set-up.

 

Nice!

 

I posted measurements long ago...but as noted above, not only is the 59 belting substantially more compact than the late stuff, it can be set up as dimensionally identical to a '33 except for 1" extra protrusion of the actual crankshaft.
Single row '39 pulley OR just cut away extra sheave on any '40-48 pulley, fan on generator hub, C-spacers (now available in repro) on mounts...and build distributor as a '42, so it will be easier to service than the old helmet.
Late engine can be fully converted to same system, but since its cam has to be changed this isn't very practical if you are starting with a running motor.
Front mounts may need some jiggering on altitude...space them so hand crank hole lines up with center of crank so engine is axially set right for stock trans mount.

 

I bought a set of mount spacers from bob drake for my 33 pickup and they are about 1" too short. Called them and they argued with me. Crank snout was resting on the crossmember and hoses would not go on. I shimmed them with washers and now they work, but buyer beware....

On my roadster a friend made an exact copy of the risers ford sold over the counter and they worked perfect

 

Thanks Bruce and Chris.

 

I built this set of spacers.
They didn't need to be this complex
C1BA into a '33

 

Great pic. Now I see the picture.Thanks!

 

I think Flowmeister is showing 8CM or 1CM Mercury pumps, whose mount legs are higher up than '48 Ford or F series truck pumps...

 

Ok!Thanks!.

 

Thanks for all the pictures and input. I think I got it. The 59AB is more compact then the 8BA. I need generator with fan, 42 style distributor, single belt pulleys, 33/34 trans mount, clutch arm, front motor mount spacers and to modify the front crank pulley (guide plate is already cut off). Thanks again.

 

If you have the original VIN stamped in the frame it should tell you which engine it had originally. I believe only the V8 had vin's starting with 18 but I can't tell you what the 4 cyl. started with.

 

Thank you metalman I pulled out my pink and it didn't have 18 on it but it did give the number of cylinders which is 8. I didn't even think to look there.

 

Be sure to install the stock anti-chatter rods from the frame to the bell housing.
My '34 with an 8BA was missing them when I got it and it would shake the fillings out
of your teeth when you let the clutch out!

 

Thanks!

 

Update please. Did you get the 59A?

 

I'm kind of slow. My old thread. I did get the59ab. I haven't done anything with it. Life got in the way.