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flathead gaskets NAPA numbers NEW THREAD.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by paulie_boy13, Sep 5, 2005.

  1. paulie_boy13
    Joined: Mar 1, 2005
    Posts: 269

    paulie_boy13
    Member
    from NC

    i am using heads that require the EARLY style head gaskets on my later style block. i have read the searches and found these part numbers in relation to the BLUE fel-pro gaskets..the part numbers turned up these http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...tail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15515850&prmenbr=5806

    are these right they look BLACK to me...are these the style that do NOT need any sealer?.. no one on any of the searches had any reviews of them really ( although that was a year ago) any updates?

    also i plugged the holes in the block that i needed to ....should i plug the coresponding water holes in the new heads or will the gasket that care of those since the block is plugged any advice appreciated.......
     
  2. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091

    k9racer
    Member

    Is this a big bore gasket? meaning for more than .o8o over.. Thank you..
     
  3. paulie_boy13
    Joined: Mar 1, 2005
    Posts: 269

    paulie_boy13
    Member
    from NC

    i think its a stock size that can be used to to a 3 5/16 bore here is the post that i had gotten the pasrt numbers off of...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22778&highlight=flathead+head+gasket

    i am still interested in peoples thoughts and experiences with this gasket i have a copper one waiting but if this type is the bee's knees then i would rather deal with these and eliminate ANY possibilty of ill effects from the copper style.....
     
  4. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I just got some a few months back - NGA1026K - when I got them, they were blue, but in a Victor package - I pulled them out & they were indeed Fel-Pro - they packaged them so you couldn't see the Fel-Pro name...

    NAPAOnline isn't always the most accurate - go order some at a store.

    If you're using early heads, there shouldn't be any holes to plug.
     

  5. paulie_boy13
    Joined: Mar 1, 2005
    Posts: 269

    paulie_boy13
    Member
    from NC

    thanks Flat Ernie.. do i need to use any kinda sealant on these or do i just crush em when i torque em?

    it appeared to me that one of the holes in the pass side head did NOT line up as the corresponding hole in the block (8BA) stuck out past the head (which needs a plug) so the hole in the head just dead ends into the gasket thats why i was wondering ...similar story of the drivers side.. thanks again
     
  6. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Shouldn't need any sealant & despite Fel-Pro's no-retorque claims, I'd check 'em a few times during the first 100 miles or so.

    If you've got early heads & early gasket, just plug that hole in the block & you're good to go.
     
  7. paulie_boy13
    Joined: Mar 1, 2005
    Posts: 269

    paulie_boy13
    Member
    from NC

    thanks alot man you came through in a clutch, have a good one....
     
  8. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    The NAPA site is unclear and incomplete; I just ordered a gasket set and also a spare set of headgaskets (because I couldn't tell what type of gaskets came in the engine set). I believe all the gaskets that came were the blue new type, which get good reports from the only person I know who has used them. We were looong overdue for new gaskets, especially for engines with aluminum heads...
    By the way, virtually all applications needing early head gaskets should use the small-hole type--even early trapezoid hole blocks, all except thase using actual '39-42 Ford heads. The trapezoid blocks get minor redrilling detailed in Ford books to use the '42-48 type gaskets, which are designed for better flow through end cylinders.
     
  9. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I'm running them with iron heads (for now) & will get another set when I get my Cyclone heads on. I did re-torque after the first full warm-up & most of them moved a wee bit. I tried another re-torque after a few more miles & none moved.

    Which book is this in, Bruce? Is it something I can do with the engine together & in the car? I'm still battling a small overheating demon - it's controllable, but next time I have the heads off, I'd like to try anything I can to help cool it off.
     
  10. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Which book is this in, Bruce? Is it something I can do with the engine together & in the car? I'm still battling a small overheating demon - it's controllable, but next time I have the heads off, I'd like to try anything I can to help cool it off.[/QUOTE]

    You engine is Canadian, right?? I've got the Canadian engine book here...
    Give me a moment to translate the measurements from "Walrus Whiskers" to inches...
    Early heads, from Canadian manual: Look at the vertical row of holes down the center of the head: Topmost gets drilled to 3/4", skip a hole, hole #3 close to center gets drilled to 3/4". Then use late gasket, the one with only round holes, no trapezoids. If holes are already 3/4, you have some kind of late heads or they're already modified. What block and head casting numbers do you have?
     

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