Hi guys, I'm getting ready to bolt on the Fenton 4 bbl manifold and when I pulled the old 2 bbl intake off, I noticed some water in the intake bolt holes, and one intake port was rusty. The cooling system is partially drained. I am attaching pictures of the intake ports, 2 adjoining ports on cylinders 5/6. I know some of the head bolts protrude into water jackets but do some of the intake bolts do the same? Should I put some thread sealant on the bolts when reinstalling? If they do protrude into the water jacket then there could have been water leaking past the bolt and sneaking under the gasket into the intake port. The engine is a '51 8BA. Thanks!
One of the best things about flatheads is that you can change the intake without draining the cooling system.
Wire brush in a drill and clean inside ports and top of engine. Look for a crack, very carefully. No water should be up there.
Back away with the camera so we get a better overall idea what we are seeing. In the bottom photo it looks like a pretty obvious crack around the edge of the intake runner but that shouldn't go into water.
Looks like you can see it in the second picture . Can you lay in a new gasket , run it for 50 miles then inspect it again . Also look at the spark plug is there an orange tint ? Coolant runners are in the block upper and lower from front to back so be careful mating these manifolds and use grade 5 bolts not Stainless if you are having a water leak . The use of too hard a bolt will crack further . Flatheads can sleep you know it's like a kid learns to spit so tell it no and use r the thread locker and some red high temp silicone up and down the threads LIGHTLY . Flo had one or two I think also I just laughed when I took the manifold off just treat it with care you be fine
Ha, now you tell me. I keep forgetting it's exhaust that heats the carb, not water.... I didn't make it to the shop yesterday, should get there today. I pulled the plugs and they are fine, nice and clean. I haven't been able to drive this yet as it was a rolling chassis project when I bought. I now have the driveline complete, brakes done, so it will move, but it's now snow season, driving will have to wait for 6 months. I will clean up the port and make a closer inspection, take a few more pics and reply later today. The picture I'm posting here was taken when I pulled the manifold. Thanks everyone for the help. Cheers PS, I just realized something, looking at this last picture, the water is clear, not antifreeze yellow...it must have leaked under the gasket the day it got stuck outside in a rainfall while I was cleaning the shop, that was a month ago. I also just realized the hole that was full is not actually used as it is under the oil fill tube. Still wonder about rust on intake port 5 ?
When a flathead sits for a lengthy period , always a valve or more on each bank are open . And upon looking closely there is no stream rust mark it's mottled and your plugs are clean so may be just from sitting . Gimpyshotrods 545 thread sealer is the ticket and a dab of the silicone on the tip of the bolt including first two threads . When you get it running spray around the manifold mounting area for vacuum leaks and these manifold bolts tightness is around 12 lbs with good lockwashers and sequenced . After a couple runs I retorque so I sleep at night . Enjoy and keep your foot in it
Okay wood stove is going in the shop, it's starting to snow again, I'll head out in an hour to continue work on this. It was sitting for a few years, but when I bought this in 2020, I got it running last winter and have started and run it up to temp a few times since then. I'll report back a bit later. Thanks again!
Kilo , You’re right,,,that water was clear,,,,if you’re running antifreeze,,,,,that is definitely not from the cooling system . For the life of me,,,I don’t understand why some people run straight water,,,,I really don’t get it . I’m glad you use antifreeze,,,it will help the iron live longer and help the pumps and all . Maybe the intake was not perfectly flat on that corner,,,,or like the man said,,,,maybe a valve was slightly open and let some moisture gather there ? Good luck,,,,,post some good pics of the snow,,,,so we understand what it is for you guys up there to keep these hot rods running . Tommy
Intake runners are constantly getting washed with Gas, that makes total clean metal. A light shot of water and an hour latter you have a nice coating of Brown. It's just a reaction not a problem. You didn't tell us it got rained on in your first post. However that second intake runner up from the bottom on the right still looks like it has a crack in it at about the 8 Oclock position. That would not be a freeze damage, more from some kind of impact. It's a very narrow ledge with nothing under it in that spot.
Thanks Tommy, After investigating the problem, I blew out the holes and they all bottom, no leaks, just stagnant water sitting in them. I looked over the gasket looking for evidence of leakage, didn't find any but found VERY little material being squashed by the intake on that port, then I put it back on the block and either it's a poor Fel-Pro 8903 punched gasket, or the old 2 bbl manifold was just skinny in that area. Seems like the intake port punched holes are not properly aligned on the block. I'll open the new one and check it on the block and the new intake to see if it's better. Also, Ford manual for this engine says 23-28 ft/lbs torque for the intake, any reason for the 12 recommendation? thx More later. And a couple of pics, being in Canada, you have to have a hockey net in the front yard (it was our old skating rink)
Ok I installed the new gasket and Fenton manifold, and was putting in the bolts and noticed that there are many holes not drilled in the Fenton. I don't know if they found it sealed better without all the holes or ??? The Offenhauser I have for comparison has all the holes drilled. They are both for '49-54 8BA engines as they have the road draft tube and oil fill at the front. I know it must work as they have been around since the 50's, just surprised me. I have heard the Fenton was one of the better aftermarket intakes, your thoughts on the holes? Cheers
Yes the 12 recommendation is enough to crush a fresh gasket when there is possibility of cracks in the upper coolant runners area . It works as I've not had a problem since using the thread locker . It's a manifold not a head and yes ALL types of flathead manifolds are prone to base warpage since exhaust heat is close to it . If you don't have a crack problem them go with the 23 if you choose . I use caution in all my processes and decide accordingly . Have fun and it will get there ! Great your attending it so things get better .
As long as the bushing is still in the fuel pushrod hole,,,you should be good . The bushing has a .060 inch hole,,to lube the shaft . It usually doesn’t bleed too much pressure,,,,,some,,,but not too much . Tommy
We would cut the pushrod just above the deflector washer and drop the short piece back in the hole or some would drive a cupped soft plug in it to stop bleed off. Helps keep the oil pressure where it belongs.
Okay cool, thanks guys. That will be added to my "little details to check" when I get closer to the finish line...in about a year. cheers
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