flathead ford V8 need help please ballast resistor or coil issues

Flathead trouble need help.

So I was driving back from my first cruise in in my 29 ford coupe with a 59ab flatty in it. The motor has edeldbrock heads, Edelbrock intake with 2 94 carbs, electric fuel pump and stock ignition and a12v alternator. The car drove fine to the cruise in and cranked right off the bat when leaving the cruise in, but on the way home down the highway I heard a loud pop sound that I thought the car back fired but then the car lost power and started sputtering when I gave it gas. The more gas I gave it the more it sputterd and finally died to where I coasted to the side of the road. Once pulled over I tried to crank the coupe and it would turn over fine but just wouldn't fire? I pulled the hose off of the carb and turned on my fuel pump and fuel cameout so iI know it is getting gas to the carb but just isn't firing.

What should I start looking for first? I truly thought my engine let go but my father in law doesn't think so since it does turn over still so easily. He isn't a flathead guru and wanted me to ask here on the HAMB for advice.


Thanks

 

Or fuel filter

 

Sometimes the it makes a pop when your power valve goes. this will flood the engine with gas and make it behave very poorly even quit. Then it is hard to start because it is flooded. After waiting a while for the gas to evaporate, it will again start but run poorly, often bucking and chugging like the choke is pulled. Just another thing you might look into. The 94 is notorious for blowing power valves if you have a backfire.

 

Check to see if the points are still opening.

 

Had a bad condenser do the same. The aftermarket Mallory units are prone to this.

 

Nice coupe! No big problem. I agree with all the above options.. condenser, points, distributor internals, and/or the carb power valve. If you need to change the Power valve be sure to check out fitting issues on the Power Valve seating correctly during replacement of aftermarket PV's. Do a search here on the Hamb for that subject.

 

We checked some things this morning and found that I do have power to the distributor but when I stick a screw driver into the spark plug wire I am not getting any spark?

 

See above options.

 

Condenser or coil.

 

Since you say no spark.

Does it have the fiber cam shaft gear? If so, maybe failed. Is rotor turning?

I have had condensers fail. Some of the new ones are bad.

Neal

 

I haven't been able to take the distributor cap off yet. I don't have much clearance in between the radiator and the cap so trying to put a game plan together to not take the radiator and hood off. I am trying to rule out the things that I can get to first.

Thanks

 

Are you running a resistor?

 

Coil

 

Try another condenser before you pull the radiator !

 

Remove the distributor. Not a big chore. The only way to work on those front mounts

 

I am running a resistor and wasn't sure if I needed one or not to begin with. Should I be running one?

 

Depends on your coil. If your coil is internally resisted you should not be using one.

 

WhTs the best way to tell that for the coil? Also how can I tell if the coil is bad?

 

Usually they are marked if internally resisted. Don't know how to check them..... I usually just change them if they are in question. Someone else may know here.
Found this..
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm

 

Ivw
I am running a 12v alternator do I need to run a 12v condenser on the stock distributor?

 

Just a 12 volt coil, condensers don't know the difference.

 

When I pull the dizzy what should I be looking for that would cause this?

 

First, check to see if the cam is turning when you crank the engine over. If it does not turn, you found the problem.

Second, look at the points. Are the set correctly? Some of the reproductions are of questionable quality. I had some where the springs lost their tension and they had only a few miles on them.

Third, I would replace the capacitor.

Forth, I would wait to see what other have to add to the list.

Neal

 

Just fought this same problem with Harrison's old '38 coupe.
After checking off every one of the potential problems listed here I replaced the condenser and the old girl didn't make a half revolution and sat there purring like a contented cat.

Frank

 

Where can I find a good set of points that is good quality? Same for the condenser?

 

Try GMC Bubba on here... I believe he can get you the quality parts you need. Don't trust the "new" points and condensers that the parts stores can get.

 

I've had 2 cars act like your descripition when the coils expired. One car [62 Buick special with 215 V/8] I was able to actually limp it home on the bad coil. My 57 Pontiac gave a big backfire and quit.
New coils fixed both cars and yes, one tested out ok with an ohm meter...didn't test the other one.

 

When you buy your points and condensor pick up a second set to keep in the car for spares. Learn how to do a roadside tune up. This is a must when you own an older car.

 

Good question. For myself, I go to NAPA and see what they have. Then go to someone like Little Dearborn or Red's Headers. I am sure Bubba will hook you up with parts as good as you will find.

I carry a spare distributor that I can swap in when needed.

For the capacitor that I had that failed. I replaced it with another one that I bought at the same time as the failed one. The replacement one has worked fine for several years. That confirms the opinion of just care spares.

Neal