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Technical Flathead ford stop when hot

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by evilchevy, Feb 16, 2016.

  1. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    I have a 1946 flathead ford, new head gasket, pertronix converted distributor, eddy Meyer intake with 2 stromberg (back carb has a 1" aluminum riser with vacuum), electric fuel pump.
    Car start and run fine on open road (180degrees), as soon as I hit city or traffic temp goes up to 190/195, after few miles it start running rough until it dies on my, usualy when I stop to a light or stopped in traffic.
    Gas arrive to the carbs and there is sparks but cant restart.
    After cooling down for 30 minutes it start again and goes until I get stuck in traffic and dies again.
    I'm thinking of some sort of vapor lock, any advice on what do to and check??
     
  2. Bader2
    Joined: May 19, 2014
    Posts: 1,143

    Bader2

    Vapour lock,or condenser. Electric pump,flip it on in traffic,off when not.
     
    40fordtudor and volvobrynk like this.
  3. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 10,405

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

  4. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    no condenser, electric pump only/
     
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  5. [QUOTE="
    I'm thinking of some sort of vapor lock, any advice on what do to and check??[/QUOTE]

    Its called a" Petronics lock"...
     
  6. moefuzz
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 4,950

    moefuzz
    Member

    The stock distributor is far superior to petronix,
    but most people don't know how to maintain
    their points distributor so they opt for petronix, mallory, msd etc
     
    wbrw32 likes this.
  7. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    AMEN.
     
  8. Bader2
    Joined: May 19, 2014
    Posts: 1,143

    Bader2

    The early distributor(crab) yes. A loadamatic is a load of shit.
     
  9. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,473

    BLUDICE
    Member

    I know you said a 46 Ford flathead but is that just the engine or the car too - if it's the car too why don't you remove the hood and do some driving to see if it acts up again - if it does it will narrow it down some huh?
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  10. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,994

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    I had a similar thing happen on my '39. Turned out to be the coil. Check everything in your electrical system, if your coil is getting really really hot, like mine was, get another. Any bad electrical connections, or faulty equipment, will mimic carb problems....
     
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,937

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Jack up your pertronics and drive a new crab under it.
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  12. Hot rod Ron will be here shortly...
     
  13. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    Its a 46 engine on a 32 pick up. Running no hood, just the grill.
     
  14. Glenn Thoreson
    Joined: Aug 13, 2010
    Posts: 78

    Glenn Thoreson
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I have had a rebuilt engine with a fuel pump pushrod bushing that was just a bit too snug. Did the same thing. When it got hot the rod would expand and stick in the up position. No go. Took a while to figure that one out. I installed an auxiliary electric pump. The rod wore in and doesn't cause a problem any more but having a backup pump is sure nice, and vapor lock is never a problem with an electric pump back by the tank.
    Heat can get to electronic ignition systems. I run stock ignition with never a problem. Change your coil and condenser and see what happens. These engines were known for hot start problems but if everything is right they're problem free. Good luck.
     
  15. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    As I said, I don't run mechanic fuel pump and don't have condenser.
    I'm thinking to get a set of phenolic spacer, did anyone had good experience with those spacer??
     
  16. So,,you are ignoring the advice here from several posters,on replacing the damn Petronics?? Spacers are not a solution to your problem
     
  17. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    No, I am not ignoring any advice and use everybody experiences as a great source of info.
    I just had my distributor rebuilt 3 weeks ago, all tested and tuned, I know that some doesnt like pertronics but some love it.
    Why would the pertronix cause vapor locks? I checked an there were sparks but it still didnt started.
     
  18. sponge
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 244

    sponge
    Member
    from Austin tx

    Sounds like vapor lock, try the spacer to cool the carbs. I have also seen people putting a cloths peg on the fuel line near the carb to help cool. Not sure what success rate was like.
     
  19. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,731

    19Fordy
    Member

    Just for the heck of it bring a cooler with a bag of ice in it,
    When car stops wrap the ice bag around the carb so as to lower temp. Then try and start the car.
    If it starts you may have vapor lock. Also, when it stops disconnect the fuel line and see if you are getting fuel to the carb. What kind of electric fuel pump are you running?
     
  20. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    after it stop we removed the air filter and checked both carb, gas was getting to both carb, sparks plugs had sparks, plugs wasnt soaked and looking pretty dry.
    I dont remember how many psi is the pump but when I bought it I got one to run with the stromberg, not too high psi, it is located near the tank undernath the cabin.
     
  21. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,731

    19Fordy
    Member

    Yes, carb may be getting gas, but is it enough gas? Could front carb not having a 1 in. spacer also cause this?
    Will it run on one carb? I think fuel pressure should be 2 1/2 to 3 psi max. Have you rebuilt the carbs?
    Also, if you start the car and just let it run (idle) in your driveway until the temp reaches 180 or higher, does it still stall out if you then give it gas as if you were on the road? I your gas tank or gas cap vented?
     
  22. chargin03
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 414

    chargin03
    Member

    Spacer worked for me on a small block chevy.
     
  23. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,877

    brokenspoke
    Member

    I always learned most fuel problems are electrical in nature.
     
  24. Bill,Thats usually true...but as you read this guys posts,I wonder why he even asked here when ignoring the answer he doesnt want to hear.
     
  25. evilchevy
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 136

    evilchevy
    Member

    wbrw32.... I'm listening and considering everyone experience, I am just using other people advice to try to fix my problem... so if you don't have anything constructive to say just don't waist your time and move to a different thread, as so far you are the only one who didn't give any advises but only commented on other people reply. If there was only 1 way to fix each problem it would be to easy.
     
  26. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,141

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In 2013 and 2014 my flathead powered '32 did the old "overheat and die" waiting in line to get into the Fourth of July Goodguys in Des Moines. I'd pull to the side and let it cool for a half hour and it would start up again and drive in. The only other time it ever died like that was when I was stuck in stop 'n stop traffic on the Interstate south of Minneapolis once. Never done it any other times. But not many other times I sit idling in traffic during scorching summer days.

    Symptoms were rugged running like it didn't have enough gas. Cured by letting the car cool off. I was not in a position to stop and check for proper fuel flow or spark in those locations.

    Last spring before the summer season I installed phenolic spacers under the carbs. But then I didn't get stuck in line like I usually do so I couldn't put them to the test. I do think it was fuel related though, not electrical.

    My car has a '39 Merc flathead with a '42 distributor, two 97's on a tall Weiand intake, an electric fuel pump, a stock fan mounted on the generator up top, and a Walker radiator that usually runs about 180 degrees going down the road.

    I am considering installing a thin, unobtrusive fan shroud though.
     

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