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Flathead ford build??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ebraga9, Aug 6, 2014.

  1. flatjack
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 874

    flatjack
    Member

    That is a 46 - 48 distributor. Same as 42 but with different cap and rotor.
     
  2. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 741

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    Really can't date these motors, you can just assign them to a family group, that is most likely a 59a engine. It looks about typical for one that has been setting around for a while. That's why they need checked out (as you are planning). Looks like fun.
     
  3. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    I thought up to 1945 had the pancake distributor? And thanks for the reply so I know


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  4. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 741

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    49 is when the distributors changed. And don't hang that motor on an engine stand. There will be a big argument on here about it, but is not a good idea for a 59a block. It is possible (rare, but possible) to break the bellhouse flange on them with an engine stand. I have one that was broken. It is better to mount them from the exhaust ports.
     
  5. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 741

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    Best way to go is the side mount.
     

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  6. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,820

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great advice, jseery...and just in time! Evan, get a 3/8" thick plate long and wide enough to cover the exhaust ports, buy some cheap grade 5 bolts at Tractor Supply (or hardware store)
    You'll need 4 of the 3/8" USS bolts, 1.5" long; 2 of the 7/16" USS bolts, also 1.5" long.
    The four 3/8" bolts fit the 2 rear exhaust ports, and the two 7/16" fit the front. (Ford made the fronts take 7/16" bolts because the fronts had to clamp the exhaust flange to the manifold, longer bolts were graduated to next larger diameter)

    Now, chop the heads off all 6 bolts, leaving the shoulders...sharpen the ends of the shoulders to sharp points, screw them in the same amount (3/4") and position your new plate over them. Hold the plate securely on the pointed studs, a couple of bungee cords work well.
    Now, strike the plate sharply over each set of screws, effectively center-punching where you will drill the holes to mount your plate to the block.
    Drill the holes oversize, (four rears 7/16", two fronts 1/2".)
    Now you are ready to angle cut a thick wall tube (that telescopes into your engine stand) and have your Grandfather arc weld it.

    If you have an exhaust manifold, just set it on the plate and use transfer punches. (Whew!)

    Good hunting...and welcome aboard! Flatheads forever...
     
  7. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thanks for the advice jseery!!! And thanks Atwater I'm going to tear it down for magnafluxing this weekend coming, and again thanks for the help guys!!!


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  8. jseery
    Joined: Sep 4, 2013
    Posts: 741

    jseery
    Member
    from Wichita KS

    You will have fun pulling the head studs and then the valve guides. You will have to get back with use and tell us how that goes! LOL
     
  9. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Hahah o I'm looking forward to it alright!!


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  10. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thanks George!!


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  11. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,156

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Ya that ones going to need some machining. The crab dizzy is the one to go with, but that's the least of your concerns at this moment. Keep at it.

    The Aluminum heads are interesting.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2014
  12. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,903

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    If the heads match the engine, this may be a 30s block. If I'm not mistaken 36 or 37 had aluminum heads.

    This ones going to take some work. It might look better after clean up. You may have a hard time saving the rods and crank much less the block.

    You may need this one on a sturdy stand or a low and heavy table. Either can be made out of heavy lumber. It looks like there is going to be some heavy work involved and a regular engine stand can tip over.

    Please be careful when working/lifting/rolling it as it has enough weight to hurt you bad if it gets away.

    I hope you do not mind I'm going to ask a question to the group about your engine.
     
  13. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Nope that's fine it doesn't matter to me, and yes I know it's going to be a pain and getting the pistons out will be fun to I'm sure, and I'm going to rig something up on the stand like that side mount that was talked about. and I think there cheap aluminum heads, they say canada on them but the numbers on bell housing don't have a c for Canada. I think my grandfather got the motor with those heads on them. I'll have to check with him


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  14. 51woodie
    Joined: Jun 19, 2004
    Posts: 89

    51woodie
    Member

    Great to see a youngster getting into the flatties. Your friends will be jealous when they hear it run. My 17 year old is building up a '51 8AB for his first ever engine build. I helped him collect up some parts and he has some extra early ford parts he won't be using including a full set of new Egge pistons, valves, guides etc. PM me if you are interested- he'll make you a good deal. Good Luck !
     
  15. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,156

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    36-37/early38 221 blocks were 21 stud heads.
     
  16. Damn it's exciting to see a young guy post about building a flathead, and adding to the excitement is all the positive comments from fellow Hamber's. Can't wait to follow along! Good Luck!
     
  17. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,156

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Over time these engines tend to get parts from all sorts of engines. Heads are keepers, or sell them if they are in good shape, to help with the machining cost.
     
  18. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Thanks 51woodie ill definitely keep that in mind, I just don't want to go to crazy with parts until I get it checked for cracks first but when I do in sure you'll be hearing from me!!! I appreciate it! And it's a 24 stud so i know it's not the early 30's block. And I'm very excited knowing the feedback I've already gotten on this site and I haven't even begun to tear it down yet! Just shows how great this site is and I'll be keeping you guys posted for sure!! And I've always loved these engines and you can't beat the look and sound of them either!


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  19. Not yet rated
    Joined: Jun 9, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Not yet rated

    Has anyone advised the builder to clean out the oil passages in the crank? Very important. Pop out the dime-sized plugs in the crank and go at the passages with anything that can ream out all the dried up gunk in the oil circuit.


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  20. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Not yet rated I'm going to do all that once I take it apart as well as out some mystery oil for the pistons because it seems I'm going to have a hell of a time getting those out


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  21. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 9,820

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For a lubricant that WORKS for soaking down between pistons/walls try:

    1. Brake fluid. (3 days or so) Or:
    2. 50/50 mixture of diesel/WD 40 liquid, from the 1/2 gallon can (1 week to 10 days) Or:
    3. White vinegar, poured liberally into cyls., then covered with plastic wrap. (3-7 days)

    Brake fluid has always worked for me.
     
  22. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    Hmmm I'll have to give it a try thanks!!! I'll probably do it today


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  23. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,156

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Patience is your friend here. :]. Let it soak.
     
  24. An old Navy trick for freeing rusted parts was Oil of Wintergreen. It's expensive, but works better than any penetrating oil on the market. A word of caution tho. don't get it on your skin. It burns like fire. And
    DO NOT get it in your eyes. It can blind you.
     
  25. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,109

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    looks like a great start... all you need is a good block. all the guts can be bought aftermarket or some nice originals even from maybe the ford barn or on here.. there is nothing like a flathead. i have several engines. one is in my model a coupe and we drive the wheels off that car. the flathead seems to run stronger and stronger the more i work it. They really are a great engine. And if they are built right, they are as reliable if not more reliable than any newer OHV engine. I put 200-300 miles a week on mine during the summer. and for 2 years its been great. Some say to run an external oil filter system... which is great! but its not needed. i change my oil more often than needed, but it always comes out clean and with an 80 year old engine. i have great oil pressure and a nice quiet engine.
    good luck and keep the updates coming. These guys will help you any way possible. I have seen guys just let the machine shop mill the pistons out. then bore it to the new size... a good tip also is to hunt around for the right engine guy.. and give him all the work that needs done. dont try to shop it out. it never ends well..
    also Think twice about the RR............ a traditional hot rod is not just a car, its a lifestyle. For most people, they just wouldn't understand :)
     
  26. flatjack
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 874

    flatjack
    Member

    Unless a later 49 - 53 crank has been installed, those engines do not have cleanouts in the crank.
     
  27. Not yet rated
    Joined: Jun 9, 2014
    Posts: 53

    Not yet rated

    Good point flatjack. My only experience is with the 8ba mercury engines. The clean out plugs on the mercury cranks are larger than the ford cranks, and that's one quick way to identify what crank you've got. And frankly, I myself wouldn't want to bother with the 59ab blocks; such as those French flatheads. Just my preference.


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  28. Ebraga9
    Joined: Aug 6, 2014
    Posts: 54

    Ebraga9

    F one and Saxon here's the pic of the heads up close hope this helps. Like I said I think whoever he got the motor from put them on and I couldn't find anything about it being a Canadian block on the bell housing. And underneath the head gaskets, it has the one triangular port and two round ones and from my research I belove it's a 45-48?? And still not getting this distributor? I don't know if this is the pancake one like mentioned on other sites that stopped in 1945? Thanks again guys, I can't believe all the help already just getting to know these old engines and I haven't even started the tear down yet


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  29. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,156

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    I sent you a pm/mail... but

    Take a picture of the backside of the head near the water outlet.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    As Flat Jack said... 45-48
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2014

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