Ok maybe I think too much or check too many measurements but here it goes. A minimum of a set of original rods can be is 60 years old, do you know the life of it.. Was it revved to 5k for days on end,overheated numerous times( like that don't happen). How many times was it rebuilt,cap ground and resized. How many times were nuts cycled on the threads,you cannot service them either. A lot can happen to it in its life and it doesn't mean it was good. Chances are they are shorter than they are suppose to be and different lengths at that. H beam is the only new replacement there is in the aftermarket world. So heavy grinding is in order if they are to be used. Yea oe can be used but to me it's like a broken light bulb,it will burn bright but not for long. I have used stock internals on my stuff when money was a factor,but for customers stuff other than a mild build its new or nothing. ESP if they are stroking it to make some power. I am not eating anything to save someone a few bucks, you just get burned in the end. If you had to cut the weights down your pistons were not all that heavy. Instead of Swiss cheese it is the correct method.
Just a few tips here, the Eagle/Scat stroker cranks with the 2.000" journal's are the way to go. Scat rods are lighter overall. The Eagle's with the wider beams also cause more "fitting" issues. See the photo below. We prefer the Eagle crank for ease of balancing, the Scat rods for the ease of the installation (in most cases very minimal, if any, block clearancing), and a set of Ross slugs. This is by far the best combo you can build. The stock rods are fine also, but most times need reconditioning and bushings replaced. The brgs for the stock rods are more expensive also. (Add) The weight of the Scat rods is about 40 grams more than the Ford rods, but with the smaller journal rods, the brgs (pair) are about 30 grams less than the Fords. Weight is not really a factor here, and you do end up with "all-new" on the rods. Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. Mentioned above about the 2.000" SBC rod journal, while the size is correct, these cranks do not use the Chevy brg, they actually use the Pontiac/Buick CB610P. They are narrower than the SBC brgs, for use with the Scat or Eagle h-beams!
Lots of good info here ! Yeah the 2" journals are buick. The reason i used stock rods(NOS french,btw) is that the hidome ross piston is super heavy I like to use scat rods with 2" journal , normaly I think the scat rotating balanced assemblies are a good deal, i just dont know How good their balance process is ..... So, who stocks 4.25 eagle crank with 2" rod journal ?????????
I'm absolutely not an expert, I only know what I've read so please take what I offer as a regurgitated info. Joe Abbin's "Flathead Ford V8" book gives the following charts. This is Joe's personal data he gathered using his flow bench. '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383
I never said it doesnt work. I said there are more effective ways to gain flow And for a street motor (like in this thread) its a waste of time Joes dyno numbers without a blower are hard to believe.... So what about his flow tests then? Follow Mike bishops porting tips and unshroud around the Valves, that it all it needs A Scat 294ci kit and a Isky 1007b or winfield su1a Without any port/relieve work is really all you need Will make enough power to make you smile
haven't tried it myself, but some claim you can bore a corresponding 1-1/16" hole in the back of your water pump to help cooling. also, old-timers used to run copper piping from that point with branches from it running between the cylinders to cool it better.
The Jalopy Journal
